Ummm Help? (I know very specific)

[Cronos]

No I Haven't blocked it yet, how do I go about doing this? Is it posted somewhere else on here step by step?

 

[tom203]

Not a lot of room to play with, so I would remove seat and remove two bolts holding rear of gas tank. Now you can tilt rear of tank up slightly and get hands on the vacuum line that runs from petcock to #2 carb- see Basscliff's site and look for " where do these hoses go " pics.Pull hose straight up and off #2 carb-Don't be surprised if gas runs out. plug this line with bolt or dowel, then find something- more hose with plug- to block off the nipple on the carb. Make sure you plug carb!!!

 

[Cronos]

Ok now if I plug this though am I going to be able to run this to a real shop? How far can I bring it and how will this effect the engine etc? Is this just a temp fix until i hit a shop? Sorry, just frustrated and stranded in nowhere and want back on the road asap. Was just reading an older thread about installing an in line manual fuel shut off, think this is viable to keep me going or what? Right now I'm in NE Kansas and the nearest shop is Salina which is still 50-60 miles away.

 

[tom203]

Relax, you're on an adventure and this is just a detour! It would be nice to know if petcock vacuum hose is leaking gas into #2cylinder and putting gas into crankcase- a common problem. But who knows? IF, IF, IF this is the problem, sure,keep it blocked off till you replace petcock. But before you ride off into sunset, let's try to determine if this is the problem!
If you get it blocked off, use prime on petcock and go for spin and see if #2 plug clears up. After spin, move petcock lever to ON or RES to block fuel when it's not running. Beware, if petcock is toast ,fuel could still leak down no matter where petcock is set.

 

[Cronos]

Oh I see, by blocking the vacuum line I'm essentially making the on and reserve positions off. Now when running prime, that won't make it run too rich? As you may have guessed this is my first bike and I've done all the basic maintenance on it but the internal more complicated stuff is driving me a little nuts. Alright so first thing tomorrow is block off the vacuum line and take it out. Should I sscrub the black off the plug and how far should I take it out? Should I do this and then the oil change? And finally... There aren't any bike shops, what oil should I use in the meantime till I get real stuff? I appreciate the help and more importantly, the patience.

 

[BassCliff]

Hi Mr. Cronos,

Just to be sure you see it, here is your "mega-welcome". Read it and my website and it will answer a lot of your questions.

I just stopped by to welcome you to the forum in my own, special way.

If there's anything you'd like to know about the Suzuki GS model bikes, and most others actually, you've come to the right place. There's a lot of knowledge and experience here in the community. Come on in and let me say "HOoooowwwDY!"....

Here is your very own magical, mystical, mythical, mind-expanding "mega-welcome". Please take notice of the "Top 10 Common Issues", the Carb Rebuild Series, and the Stator Papers. Now let me roll out the welcome mat for you...

Please click here for your mega-welcome, chock full of tips, suggestions, links to vendors, and other information. Then feel free to visit my little BikeCliff website where I've been collecting the wisdom of this generous community. Don't forget, we like pictures! Not you, your bike!

Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[tom203]

Prime just lets fuel flow to carbs whether engine is running or not. It doesn't enrich mixture. Sure clean plugs up. Avoid any auto oils especially those that have energy saving label on them . Rotella oil is very popular around here- designed for diesels, so it should be available at lots of places. Try 15-40 if you can't find 10-40. either will work fine.

 

[Cronos]

Ok so I just put some caps on the vacuum and the carb and cleaned the sparkplug #2 up and ran it 5-10 minutes around the block, already sounds better but you think that's enough to tell if it's gonna blacken #2 again? Should I take it out longer?

 

[tom203]

Did you change oil yet? Doing that and running it should clean up crankcase of fuel. Just running it will determine if #2 plug is no longer fouling. Make sure that plug/cap on carb is secure!!! If it comes off, that cylinder will run too lean.

 

[Cronos]

Didn't change the oil yet but yeah the plug is still clean so that's a step in the right direction. So thank you Tom you're now one of my new hetero lifemates, or at least I owe you a drink. Now that I know the plug situation is better and won't contaminate the oil further I'll do the oil change and then can hopefully be on the road tomorrow. Meanwhile I need to hunt down a speedo drive so I can know how fast I'm going besides just from passing everyone. Thanks for the help and if you know any places for parts between salina ks and Denver let me know.

 

[tom203]

Put something on key ring to remind you to turn off petcock at stopovers. Speaking of which, when you have time ( waiting for better weather, etc.), tell us about this westward gig- school?, job?, lady ? and tell us about the bike. Try to make us envious! good luck and RIDE SAFE.

 

[Cronos]

Ok so the oil change is making me Want to hit my head against the wall, I took out the main drain plug and loosened around the filter and removed the shifter to get behind the cover but all the bolts for a Phillips are stripped and chewed up from PO and so I tried a little liquid wrench on them. Still not budging. Then to make things worse I go to tighten the filter cover again and one of the nuts is stripped. Started the thing up to see how bad it's leaking when running and as soon as it got hot it started smoking white smoke from under the engine. I filled it with the rotella 15 w40 like the welcome page said but it's never done that before. Please tell me that it's the liquid wrench remnants just cooking off... Also if I get a ride into town I sincerely hope that all I need are some replace hex nuts for the filter cover

 

[Steve]

Ok so the oil change is making me Want to hit my head against the wall, I took out the main drain plug and loosened around the filter and removed the shifter to get behind the cover but all the bolts for a Phillips are stripped and chewed up from PO and so I tried a little liquid wrench on them. Still not budging. Then to make things worse I go to tighten the filter cover again and one of the nuts is stripped.

Why are you loosening all that stuff just for an oil change? :-k

To do a full oil change, you only need to remove the main oil drain plug and the oil filter cover. There is no need to get behind the shifter.
I don't remember if the 650 has a secondary drain plug that is closer to the shaft drive output.

.

 

[Cronos]

On the 650 behind the shifter you remove a cover and There's another plug. I learned this off a friend of mine with the book and we've changed it out and gotten almost another half quart from it. That's not the issue I gave up on it for now. The biggest issues I'm worried about are the stripped nut from the filter cover and the white smoke coming from underneath the engine. I'm really hoping it's just remnants of the liquid wrench burning off but... Any other possibilities?

 

[jbs80106]

Do it the easy way....you're on the road for crying out loud.

Most of the oil will drain out just by releasing the filter cover. New filter's are available at Walmart which are practically everywhere these days. And oil.

If you stripped the acorn nut, not to worry either. It's a metric 8mm or 6mm...I forget, but you should be able to find a hex head replacement at home depot or a bike shop. Will get you sorted until you can order the replacement 2-ended treaded thingy....

If you can get most of the oil out, replace the filter, replace the oil w/new and off you go.

JUST BE CAREFUL with overtightening the hex bolts as you do NOT want to strip the threaded bit inside the engine...tighten hand tight and start it up. if it leaks, tighten a bit more, of not you are good to go!

Think like MacGuyver....or Mr. T....

 

[Cronos]

Not sure yet but let's say worst case scenario I did strip the inside, what kinda of a pain in the ass am I looking at trying to replace?

 

[tom203]

Actually, you don't have to remove shifter cover to get at that drain bolt for drive cavity. It's a 20 mm (?) hex nut on bottom. I figured you might have missed this feature, so I wanted you to see it better. Don't worry about it now, it can be drained all by itself at later date.
Can you add a washer(s) under the stripped stud on the filter cover? the other two nuts are secure? If it's really damaged it will need to be replaced eventually, but for now try something like a wire twisty around the stud and jam nut on stud or Maybe 1/4 inch hex nut ( slighty bigger than 6mm nut) with a wire twisty. If it bites into the stud, don't overtighen! No plastic bits cuz this area gets hot.Don't let me explain how to use a visegrip on this problem- I would be banned from site.
McGuyver or Mr. T - yes, finesse it or subdue it!

 

[Cronos]

Alright I'll hit up an auto store and try that today. As per the other thing you'd asked about (story of what's up) should I post it in forum under general discussion? Oh and what of the smoke, any other possible culprits other than the liquid wrench?

 

[tkent02]

If you can make Denver I can help you out, replace those studs or whatever.
Send a PM when you get close.

 

[Cronos]

As long as I can make it so the filter cover isn't bleeding oil every second I'm going to try and get on the road early in the morning and just spend the day on the road all the way in to Denver. If I start to feel fried around the stateline I might camp out. I have my iPhone on me though so I'll be able to get on here and message you. I appreciate the offer.