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Uncle Mike's BIKE Dead on Chicago Expressway - Coil question

koolaid_kid said:
Just spoke to bwringer. Had a nice long conference, and here is what he suggests: He believes it is the fuse box. If someone whos bike has the same style fuse box ( 5 AGC fuses, like an 1100E ) could temporarily remove theirs and take it over and swap, Mike may be out of the woods. Or at least found the culprit. They can be patched up, I did it on mine once.

To repeat: Mike needs a fuse box to test if his is bad or not. Volunteers?
Click to expand...

I'm inclined to agree with you. Most models, those things are all on the same fuse. (tail,sigs, cluster lights..) I'm no 1150 expert as I've never seen one in person, but I'm gonna bet that the fuse block is almost proprietary at least as far as the connector goes. I'm not sure another GS block will just hook right up.

That being said, if he wanted to test this theory, wouldn't it be simple enough to pop the wires out of the connector and run a temporary jumper between them to see if the failure is in fact the block? Testing with a VOM for continuity would work, but if it's intermittent he may not find it bad... I dunno. Electrical goober thinking aloud here...
 
Incidentally, if you do find the fuse box is the problem, we could probably acquire a universal replacement and install it tomorrow out here ... Have soldering equipment, heat shrink, etc. (and skillz) to get this done if need be. Obviously, if you are able to bypass a bad fuse block circuit and ride out that would be the easiest solution, but will come down with the trailer if need be.

Standing by ;)
 
Planecrazy said:
Incidentally, if you do find the fuse box is the problem, we could probably acquire a universal replacement and install it tomorrow out here ... Have soldering equipment, heat shrink, etc. (and skillz) to get this done if need be. Obviously, if you are able to bypass a bad fuse block circuit and ride out that would be the easiest solution, but will come down with the trailer if need be.

Standing by ;)
Click to expand...

You're a gentleman and a scholar, sir. I'll keep you posted.
 
TheCafeKid said:
I'm inclined to agree with you. Most models, those things are all on the same fuse. (tail,sigs, cluster lights..) I'm no 1150 expert as I've never seen one in person, but I'm gonna bet that the fuse block is almost proprietary at least as far as the connector goes. I'm not sure another GS block will just hook right up.

That being said, if he wanted to test this theory, wouldn't it be simple enough to pop the wires out of the connector and run a temporary jumper between them to see if the failure is in fact the block? Testing with a VOM for continuity would work, but if it's intermittent he may not find it bad... I dunno. Electrical goober thinking aloud here...
Click to expand...
Nope, it is the same as the 1100E, I checked the parts fiche.
Popping the wires out of the connector can be done by someone who knows how to do it correctly.
 
Okay, I've set up a photobucket account - BassCliffDonation. The password is 2ServeMan. I figure we can use it for posting up content for Cliff to use on his site, if there's not a process already.

Image located here.

I can also email the .jpg or .pdf to anyone who wants it.
 
koolaid_kid said:
Nope, it is the same as the 1100E, I checked the parts fiche.
Popping the wires out of the connector can be done by someone who knows how to do it correctly.
Click to expand...

Is it beyond me to do? (And again, I won't be offended if you think that's the case.)
 
I have one from one of my '83 1100E's that could be loaned out.
He IS coming this direction, right? ;)

Eric
 
Can you get the posts of the multimeter stuck down behind the back of the fuse block where the wires enter it?
IF the fuse is still in one piece... you can jump the fuse using the 10A setting on your multimeter like this...

I say if the fuse is in one piece because If there's a dead short there your new multimeter is at risk... (although it should have a 10a internal fuse that will blow...

:)
 
salty_monk said:
Can you get the posts of the multimeter stuck down behind the back of the fuse block where the wires enter it?
IF the fuse is still in one piece... you can jump the fuse using the 10A setting on your multimeter like this...

I say if the fuse is in one piece because If there's a dead short there your new multimeter is at risk... (although it should have a 10a internal fuse that will blow...

:)
Click to expand...

I do have a few spare 10a fuses.

George, would you be willing to walk me through the process sometime tomorrow? We could even Facetime it to make sure I'm not doing anything stupid.
 
rustybronco said:
Is this all that is not working?
Click to expand...

As far as I can tell, the High Beam indicator is the only light in the gauge cluster working. Tach and gear indicator are both out as well. No brake light or signals. I didn't check the license plate light though.
 
It's really hard to read this diagram...

Power comes from the battery and feeds the 15A fuse. Power leaves the 15a fuse (via red?) and goes to the ignition switch. When the ignition switch is turned on power goes to the three 10A fuses (via Orange?).

With the key on, do you have voltage on both sides of the 10A fuses?
 
The top fuse powers the turn signal light switch and the dimmer switch.

the second 10A fuse powers the turn signal control unit, the turn signal relay, power to the brake light switch, front running lights, speedo~tach?? and check panel control unit Via 1/2 of the Ignition switch. (hard to read the colors)

Haven't traced the third fuse as it's 2AM local time...

I'd check power coming out of the second fuse down from the top in the wiring diagram. If you have power coming out of the fuse, then check for power at the brake light switch with the key in the on position
 
Last edited:
I'm doing this all from my phone, so it's hard for me to tell which photos are the best. I've been sending closer images to George, but don't know which help. I've been doing some interviews on the road so I have a a widescreen attachment for my phone and will set up a better photo in the sunlight tomorrow or find a Kinkos.
 
The diagram you posted is all He will need. That, and possibly the pages in the shop manual for the check panel control unit as I don't know how it figures into the big picture.

Nite T nite...
 
rustybronco said:
The diagram you posted is all He will need. That, and possibly the pages in the shop manual for the check panel control unit as I don't know how it figures into the big picture.

Nite T nite...
Click to expand...

Okay, I'll get images of that as well. Thanks.
 
I believe I have the answer. Entering the fuse box is the orange wire. It feeds to several fuses, including 2nd from the top, SIGNAL. It exits via the O/G (Orange with a Green stripe) wire. It is this wire ( O/G ) which is apparently not getting power.
Mike, when you wake up give me a buzz.
Meanwhile I will see if I can translate from the 4 quadrant printout to the big one you posted in this thread.
BTW, I don't need another pic, I can work from the one you gave me. Wish I had a really big printer....

Edit: Done. The O/G is most likely dead. It feeds the instrumentation lights, the brake light, turn signals, etc.
 
Last edited:
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