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Upside down Main Jet swap

salty_monk

salty_monk

Forum Guru
Past Site Supporter
TGSR Superstar
I've ordered one of these http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=018&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=280146309846&rd=1

which I hope will work on the float bowl screws.

Anyone know:

1. Will I need new bowl gaskets? (I know they've been off in the last year)
2. Will I need to sync after swapping the jets?
3. What is the best way to drain the gas? Just release the plug & hold some kind of yogurt pot or similar under there?

Any further tips appreciated. I know Keith has done it this way before & I presume others have too.

Thanks,

Dan
 
Bowl gaskets are pretty sturdy so that shouldn't be a problem.
Always sync the carbs after removing them.
To drain the gas I remove the carbs and put the vent lines in a bucket and turn the carbs upside down. Some gas spillage is expected.
 
Duh on my part. I now see you're trying to swap the main with the carbs on the bike. Yeah, just drain the float bowls into a small bowl or something. I would still sync again though. Can't hurt.
 
Dissenting opinion: if you're not disturbing the linkage, no need to sync. ;-)
 
Thanks! I know it's tight, I'll give it a go, if it won't go I'll pull them off I have some new O rings.

Going to fit the stock 115 mains that Kent sent me when I get around to it. The pilots & Needles pull strongly with the K&N inbox so figured I'd switch the mains over & see what happens.

Interestingly with no load & no filter it runs strong on pilots & WOT but nothing on the needles.

My usual bank & forwards is all on the pilots or needles anyway & the plugs are not that far off (or not enough to worry!)

Just tinkering really :lol:
 
It's not worth the aggravation, carbs only take 10 minutes to remove
 
Hard to say about the bowl gaskets. If they look good and no gasket material is stuck/torn off on the bowls or carb body, you may be able to re-use them. If the bowl screws are tightened well and it leaks, that's your answer.
Changing jets doesn't effect the synch of the throttle plates.
Just remove the bowl drain screws to release the fuel in the bowls. Upon re-start, use the prime on the petcock.
If you use that tool, be sure that you use enough upward force when turning or you can strip the screw heads. I use a short screwdriver for the phillips heads or hex key for hex screws.
I have no problem working the carbs on the bike, but many others may have I suppose.
 
Thanks again Keith. I will be armed with short phillips as well as this tool when I give it a go... if they don't give up easy I'll take the rack out.

Dan :)
 
SqDancerLynn1 said:
It's not worth the aggravation, carbs only take 10 minutes to remove
Click to expand...

That might be true for a couple of people here but for the vast majority it's not.

I would be more worried about not being able to apply sufficient leverage to the screw and bit slipping out. Repeated efforts could ruin some of the screws, requiring an inevitable removal of the carbs and replacement of the screws.
 
N56629 said:
That might be true for a couple of people here but for the vast majority it's not.

I would be more worried about not being able to apply sufficient leverage to the screw and bit slipping out. Repeated efforts could ruin some of the screws, requiring an inevitable removal of the carbs and replacement of the screws.
Click to expand...
True. I've had no problems removing bowls on a bike but others may.
It depends on the quality/fit of the tool you use and screw condition. I always replace the Phillips with Allens and that eliminates any problem.
 
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