Valve adjustment question.

[razooki]

Just read about the zip tie method however it's a bit confusing. How are you supposed to catch all 8 valves through the spark plug hole and even know what you are doing in there? especially cyl 2 and 3 must be a pain in the ass. I'm also not sure at what position the valve is fully open in relation to the cam lobe to know which one you are putting the zip tie into. Maybe i'm an idiot but it seems tricky.

You need to do one cylinder at a time. Once you remove the spark plugs you can actually see the open valve if you shine a light through the spark hole. By turning the engine with a 19mm wrench you can actually see the valve opening. Once that is done slip the tip of the zip tie through the plug hole between the valve and the seat and then rotate the engine to close the valve. since the zip tie is in there now the valve will not close completely so you'll be able to get the shim out.

 

[doctorgonzo]

You need to do one cylinder at a time. Once you remove the spark plugs you can actually see the open valve if you shine a light through the spark hole. By turning the engine with a 19mm wrench you can actually see the valve opening. Once that is done slip the tip of the zip tie through the plug hole between the valve and the seat and then rotate the engine to close the valve. since the zip tie is in there now the valve will not close completely so you'll be able to get the shim out.

Yep. It's a bit tricky, but once you catch one you've pretty much got it figured out.

 

[tipwise]

Yep. It's a bit tricky, but once you catch one you've pretty much got it figured out.

Great. thanks for all the help and i'll go give it a shot.

 

[Steve]

... I don't even know what's currently in there til I get the tool to get these ones out.

You don't need the tool. Read on:

You can fashion a shim tool from a zip tie. Do a search. I have adjusted mine multiple times and don't own the tool.

I do own the tool, but I prefer the zip-ties.

Just read about the zip tie method however it's a bit confusing. How are you supposed to catch all 8 valves through the spark plug hole and even know what you are doing in there? especially cyl 2 and 3 must be a pain in the ass. I'm also not sure at what position the valve is fully open in relation to the cam lobe to know which one you are putting the zip tie into. Maybe i'm an idiot but it seems tricky.

Again, read on:

You need to do one cylinder at a time. Once you remove the spark plugs you can actually see the open valve if you shine a light through the spark hole. By turning the engine with a 19mm wrench you can actually see the valve opening. Once that is done slip the tip of the zip tie through the plug hole between the valve and the seat and then rotate the engine to close the valve. since the zip tie is in there now the valve will not close completely so you'll be able to get the shim out.

Assuming you already have the valve cover off, pull all the spark plugs and the ignition cover on the right end of the crank. As you rotate the crank (clockwise only, please), you can see the lobes on the cams rotate. When a lobe is pushing down on a valve, it is very obvious when the valve is open the farthest. Look in the spark plug hole, you can see the edge of the valve, even on cylinders 2 & 3. Slip the bent end of the zip-tie under the edge of the valve, rotate the crank a full turn so the cam lobe is pointing away from the valve. You can now rotate the bucket and remove the shim for inspection/replacement. Whatever you do, DO NOT ROTATE THE ENGINE WITH ANY SHIMS MISSING.

Go through one time to take inventory, record all the values, put the shim back in where it came out.
This is where I will insert a shameless plug for my spreadsheet. See the instructions at the end of my sig line, you can have your own copy, too.
So far, 271 "registered" users in 10 countries besides the USA and I have not received any complaints.

Once you have all your shim sizes recorded, you can see if you have some that you can shuffle around to minimize purchasing as many shims.

 

[tipwise]

just tried it on cylinder 4 intake valve and had no luck. i can see the valve and got the zip tie in there but when it pinches on the zip tie the point of the cam lobe is down on the ship leaving no room to pull it out. I cant even see the valve for exhaust side when doing this. hmmm....

 

[tipwise]

i guess the zip tie is not getting lodged right between the valve and the seat because when i have it pinched in there where the tie feels tight likes its being pinched there is absolutely no clearance to extract the shim

 

[Steve]

Are you doubling the zip-tie? It needs to be a bit thicker, so you need to start with a zip-tie that is about 10-12" long, fold it in half.
Put a 45-degree bend about 1/2" from the fold and some electrical tape just above the bend to hold the crease.
Stick that folded end into the spark plug hole.

Now go back and read the directions again. Better yet, just keep reading.

Rotate the engine so the cam lobe is pushing the valve open. Insert the folded end of the zip-tie under the edge of the valve.
ROTATE THE CRANK ONE FULL TURN SO THE CAM LOBE IS POINTING AWAY FROM THE VALVE.
Now you can rotate the bucket and remove the shim.

You will have to rotate the engine a BUNCH to use this method, but with my luck and the "special tool", it's actually much quicker for me.

.

 

[tipwise]

Are you doubling the zip-tie? It needs to be a bit thicker, so you need to start with a zip-tie that is about 10-12" long, fold it in half.
Put a 45-degree bend about 1/2" from the fold and some electrical tape just above the bend to hold the crease.
Stick that folded end into the spark plug hole.

Now go back and read the directions again. Better yet, just keep reading.

Rotate the engine so the cam lobe is pushing the valve open. Insert the folded end of the zip-tie under the edge of the valve.
ROTATE THE CRANK ONE FULL TURN SO THE CAM LOBE IS POINTING AWAY FROM THE VALVE.
Now you can rotate the bucket and remove the shim.

You will have to rotate the engine a BUNCH to use this method, but with my luck and the "special tool", it's actually much quicker for me.

.

yeah im using a big heavy zip tie and made it just how it showed in the picture.

 

[doctorgonzo]

yeah im using a big heavy zip tie and made it just how it showed in the picture.

I stick the bent zip tie in so that it hits the valve stem. Then I know it's under the face as is should be. Then, holding it in place you either have to reach down, or around to turn the crank or have an assistant do it. If you let go of the zip tie, even if it seems to stay in place the valve will dislodge it.

 

[tlepac]

I use the tool and it is easy as pie for me! Never tried the Zip tie method but I have poor vision and need to be able to see. Cant see in the spark plug hole very good. But with the tool you can get a feel for the shim bucket edge and the shims come pout easily with a small pick and tweezers. Other than that I do as the others above say. Measure them all, then figure which ones you can swap around, keep records of the shim sizes ( I have them recorded in my Suzuki manual) and then do the swapping when you get all the right sizes from the dealer or online. A few extra shims is a good idea too! Just in case. Also if you have some experts in your area see if you can get them to come show you or go visit someone to help him with his shim job. It can be a very pleasant Sat Afternoon for you both

 

[tipwise]

I stick the bent zip tie in so that it hits the valve stem. Then I know it's under the face as is should be. Then, holding it in place you either have to reach down, or around to turn the crank or have an assistant do it. If you let go of the zip tie, even if it seems to stay in place the valve will dislodge it.

got it wow. feel like an idiot. way easy. so record each size replace and move on right?

 

[Steve]

That's it.

Want the spreadsheet? :-k

.

 

[tipwise]

Okay so sizes are as follows. Doesn't look like i can do much swapping.

4 intake 2.55x
4 exhaust 2.65
3 intake 2.60
3 exhaust 2.55
2 intake 2.55x
2 exhaust 2.60
1 exhaust 2.60x
1 intake 2.55x

i emailed you offline for the spreadsheet steve. did you get it?

 

[sachsaca]

Here is a video of adjusting the valves. It tends to be dry and long but very informative. I'm pretty sure it has been posted before and I know some of you will let that be known. But here it is again. sachsaca

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-2015554469142545363#

 

[Skateguy50]

I tried the zip tie method but didnt catch the first time and got a bit afraid of sticking things into the engibe with fear of something getting dropped in or broke, so I covered the holes and went to plan b. I used an allen key that fit about how the "tool" fits on the top of the engine and made do with that method.

As far as the measuring and shim sizes it can get confusing, I did get the spreadsheet but basically used the same principles as that and did it on a sheet of paper in the garage.

Also I got a small 2.35 shim to put in and use to measure and calculate what size I needed. Took a while but worked. I had to buy a few shims to avoid many trips to the dealer, but now I can swap my extras with them for free next time.

Oh and fyi, I did try the "real" gasket and after doing the shims once and replacing all the gaskets after I will put the OEM gasket on in the spring. The real gasket is just to thick and really messed up my tach, could not get the worm drive set right no matter how tight I made it broke my cable from that and well no tach again. It sounds like a good idea as you can reuse it for multiple shim adustments but imo is not worth it.

 

[doctorgonzo]

Hell you can reuse the OEM gasket for multiple shim adjustments. Lightly grease both sides of when you install, regrease lightly each time you pull the cover. Those things are very reusable.

 

[Skateguy50]

The one I took off the first time had no chance of reuse, was at 20k miles and it seemed like it never was taken off.

I do have a new oem gasket that came with the gasket set I got for replacing the head and base, so I will put that one on in the spring and do as you say. Should be fine for the next few checks.

 

[Steve]

Okay so sizes are as follows. Doesn't look like i can do much swapping.

4 intake 2.55x
4 exhaust 2.65
3 intake 2.60
3 exhaust 2.55
2 intake 2.55x
2 exhaust 2.60
1 exhaust 2.60x
1 intake 2.55x

i emailed you offline for the spreadsheet steve. did you get it?

Yes, I got the request. Your spreadsheet will be there shortly.

Just looking at the shim sizes won't tell you that you can't move anything unless they are ALL the same size.
You have four sizes there, so, depending on what your clearances are, you might be able to do some swapping.

.

 

[doctorgonzo]

Pretty good odds as Steve said you can do some swapping. Even if all tight, the 2.60 can be replaced with the 2.55 etc... at least maybe.