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Valve Adjustment Questions

  • Thread starter Thread starter Good Times
  • Start date Start date
G

Good Times

Guest
While I'm waiting on some tools to be shipped I thought I would check my valves and adjust them if they are out of spec.

'82 GS850GL

This is the first time I've done this and want to be sure I'm not missing anything obvious. I have my Clymer Manual out and have been through BassCliff's tutorial but want to check on the following:

1) When I measure with my feeler gauge I am measuring between the shim and the cam lobe correct? The reason I ask is because so far, when I measure, there is no gap when I measure with my .001/.025 mm feeler gauge.

2) I am having trouble understanding the set of feeler gauges I ordered from Snap On (FB-310B). The gauges are as follows from top to bottom:

.015/.381 mm
.001/.025 mm
.004/.102 mm
.005/.127 mm
.007/.178 mm
.008/.203 mm
.010/.254 mm
.012/.305 mm
.013/.330 mm

Spec for my valves is between .03 & .08 mm right? How do I measure that with these gauges? Can I?
 
If those numbers are accurate then yea you will need a different gauge. You can get one with just metric on it at your local bike shop or at Sears. And you can find them with the smaller inch sizes as well
 
Your sets too large, you need a smaller set

Check to see if the clearance is too tight

Remove the shim, enter into the spreadsheet (you do have the spreadsheet, right?) and reinstall the shim. Repeat for each valve

Now, see what probable shim size you need and order the size you need

Once you get the new shims, start swapping them in and recheck
 
Yep, your limited number of feelers STINKS. Only one of them will do you any good, and it is smaller than the minimum clearance.

Big T said:
... enter into the spreadsheet (you do have the spreadsheet, right?)
Click to expand...
Spreadsheet.
down2.gif
 
Thanks fellas. I figured I had the wrong set. I'll pick some more up tomorrow. I know what happened now. I searched the site for threads on feeler gauges. I came up with a post where someone bought these guages. I ordered a set. Now I realize that they only bought it because of the smallest gauge which is hard to find. :rolleyes: Awesome.

I have requested a spreadsheet. :) Looking forward to getting this done the right way.
 
Wow Steve. Thanks for the spreadsheet. It's as amazing as you polished internal parts. :clap:
 
It's better to ask questions than make mistakes right?

Want to make sure I am correct with labeling my valves. In the picture below:

#1 EX <A> #2 EX ------------- #3 EX <B> #4 EX

#1 IN <C> #2 IN ------------- #3 IN <D> #4 IN

Correct? or no...

e397f190.jpg
 
Good Times said:
It's better to ask questions than make mistakes right?

Want to make sure I am correct with labeling my valves. In the picture below:

#1 EX <A> #2 EX ------------- #3 EX <B> #4 EX

#1 IN <C> #2 IN ------------- #3 IN <D> #4 IN

Correct? or no...

e397f190.jpg
Click to expand...
Correct. And By the way if for any reason you ever have to remove those cam caps, they need to go back exactly like they came off... They're labeled for that reason. :)
 
Good Times said:
1) When I measure with my feeler gauge I am measuring between the shim and the cam lobe correct? The reason I ask is because so far, when I measure, there is no gap when I measure with my .001/.025 mm feeler gauge.
Click to expand...
Should be between the shim and base circle, not the top or any part of the lobe.
 
the base circle is the part of the cam that isn't the lobe. You are measuring clearance between the shim and the cam. When the lobe comes around it will touch the shim and push the valve open. If the shim is touching the cam when the lobe is 180 degrees around from the shim your clearance is too tight.
 
The 850 factory service manual on BassCliff's site has a diagram that shows pretty clearly the correct position of the cam for checking clearance. I don't remember how good the diagram is in Clymer's. Basically, if you imagine a line passing through the point of the lobe and the center of the cam, you need that line to be parallel with the cam cover gasket face. Point the lobe toward the outside of the head.
 
Okay that's what I thought he meant but I hadn't seen that spot on the cam named as such. I learned something new, thank you.
 
Good Times said:
2) I am having trouble understanding the set of feeler gauges I ordered from Snap On (FB-310B). The gauges are as follows from top to bottom:

.015/.381 mm
.001/.025 mm
.004/.102 mm
.005/.127 mm
.007/.178 mm
.008/.203 mm
.010/.254 mm
.012/.305 mm
.013/.330 mm
Click to expand...


Sorry, not trying to bust balls but these numbers are wrong. The Snap-On set you have is perfectly fine for adjusting GS valves. The FB-310B set comes with .001", .0015", .002", .003" and .004" sizes, which are all you need.

Use the .0015" (.0381mm) as your minimum; if that size won't pass, go to a thinner shim. If the engine has been abused you may need to go two steps so don't assume anything. The .004" (.104mm) is the largest clearance you should allow. Just hit somewhere between these two sizes and you are good to go.
 
Last edited:
gpd211 said:
the base circle is the part of the cam that isn't the lobe. You are measuring clearance between the shim and the cam. When the lobe comes around it will touch the shim and push the valve open. If the shim is touching the cam when the lobe is 180 degrees around from the shim your clearance is too tight.
Click to expand...


Ahhhh....iiiight. Got it.

27fcced6.jpg
 
Nessism said:
Sorry, not trying to bust balls but these numbers are wrong. The Snap-On set you have is perfectly fine for adjusting GS valves. The FB-310B set comes with .001", .0015", .002", .003" and .004" sizes, which are all you need.

Use the .0015" (.0381mm) as your minimum; if that size won't pass, go to a thinner shim. If the engine has been abused you may need to go two steps so don't assume anything. The .004" (.104mm) is the largest clearance you should allow. Just hit somewhere between these two sizes and you are good to go.
Click to expand...

Got my gauge set to prove you wrong and guess what. You're right. The feelers were stuck together. :o. This is the part where you can insert the "what a noob" eye roll. Thanks Nessism.
 
Oh, and another thing...

Please use the cam positioning method contained in the GS factory service manual. Don't use the method in Clymers since it will lead to less accurate adjustment.

If you don't have a FSM, you can download one from Basscliff's website. Basscliff also has a valve adjustment tutorial if you need your hand held. Great info from a great guy!

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/
 
Downloading the FSM and using Steve's spreadsheet. Should be good to go. Thanks guys.
 
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