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Valve cover bolts

  • Thread starter Thread starter AdamW
  • Start date Start date
A

AdamW

Guest
I was replacing the gasket on the valve cover and ended up stripping the threads on three bolts before I quit using the torque wrench(click type). I had it adjusted to 6 ft/lbs and tested on an outer bolt on the cover. It clicked, I proceeded with the inside bolts. The first interior bolt turned tight (no click), then loosened. i left as is and set the torque wrench for 5.5 ft/lbs. Started another bolt, same thing. Reset wrench to 5 ft/lbs and turned another bolt with the same result. Frustrated, I set the wrench aside and tightened the rest with a regular socket wrench until just tight. Is there a difference between using a ft/lb wrench vs an in/lb? I was more concerned with stripping the heads than the threads and really took my time with this not to gorilla the job.

Thanks
Adam
 
I have no faith in a Chinese in-lb torque wrench , so I get creative.....back to basics
 

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Sounds like some heli-coils may be in order. I doubt it was the bolts that stripped. More likely it's the threaded holes in the head.
 
Sounds like some heli-coils may be in order. I doubt it was the bolts that stripped. More likely it's the threaded holes in the head.
Yes, you are correct. It was the threads in the head. Are there any brands that you would recommend? -Adam
 
Heli-Coil comes to mind, along with TimeSert.

As rapidray mentioned, you basically don't trust the lower 10-15% of any torque wrench, as well as about the top 5-10%.

I just did a valve cover last night for another member. Set the in-lb wrench (1/4" drive Harbor Freight special) to 85 (right about 7 ft-lb) and snugged them all down.

It's actually a bit surprising how LOW the torques setting is. I know it's a lot less than your gut feeling tells you to do.

.
 
I use my small beam torque wrench in inch pounds, never has failed me.
 
Two fingers on a small ratchet works well, go around working them tighter and tighter in a few steps so they are all even. Just enough that the bolt won't back out, you do NOT need to smash the gasket to make it seal.

It doesn't take much, and too loose is far better than too tight even if you don't strip threads out of the hole.
 
Thanks everyone. I'm going to chase the source of an oil leak this weekend and plan the repair for next. Hopefully I can get the parts and tools in by then. Lots of old buildup making it tough to see at this point and creates a nice smokey bike after a short ride.
-Adam
 
I'm pretty sure it's previously been mentioned on this GS forum but I'll repeat it anyway. If the internal threads in the head for the valve/cam cover are stripped and you can't, or just don't want to install a heli-coil, try this trick.
Modify the length on a 1/4 x 20 SAE steel bolt to match the length of the original M6 x 1.00 metric bolt that secures the valve/cam cover. FYI, the O.D. of the threads on the 1/4 x 20 are approximately .015" to .020" larger than the M6 x 1.00. Therefore, by slowly installing the 1/4 x 20 steel bolt into the "stripped" hole on the aluminum head, the 1/4 x 20 bolt will form it's own threads into the head and the threads are reusable, if not over-tightened in the future. My 1982 GS 1100GL currently has 3 of said 1/4 x 20 steel bolts holding down the valve/cam cover. I've removed the cover once, reused the same 1/4 x 20 bolts and they tighten about the same as the original M6 bolts.
just saying!
sbmisajw
 
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