Valve cover / Cam Cover leak - but is there a fix?

[alabamatom69]

I believe the cam chain guide pushes up slightly on the valve cover in the front of the tunnel. The oil is seeping through the gasket there. I feel like it is a recognized design flaw, since Suzuki updated the bolt pattern on later engines to spread the load a little better. In my case, I have used a factory gasket and torqued appropriately, but it is still seeping/leaking at the front of the cam chain tunnel. I have searched and obviously found several threads dealing with this issue, but I have not found one with a proper "fix"
RTV? I'd rather avoid
Maybe the cover is slightly warped and having it decked/milled flat will resolve it?

 

[Guest]

I use a spray sealer on gaskets. It works great. Just know that if you have to remove it, it can be a PITA to clean off the surfaces.

Permatex 80065 High Tack Spray-A-Gasket Sealant, 8 oz. net Aerosol Can https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HBICK2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_D81zDbZJ2D4JZ

 

[Brendan W]

Looks like one of the screw holes has seen better days.
What are the chances that others are on their last legs and giving torque feedback for little axial pull?

 

[alabamatom69]

Looks like one of the screw holes has seen better days.
What are the chances that others are on their last legs and giving torque feedback for little axial pull?

No. The threads on all the others are in good shape. Nut/Bolt combo is from the PO, but it doesnt seem that any other hole was damaged. Torque is good all around

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

tom69, I'm following because I seem to be having a similar problem. I changed the valve cover gasket last winter. I used a thin layer this grease

to lightly coat the both sides of the gasket (OEM). I didn't have a in-lb torque wrench and I'm pretty sure I over-tightened the bolts. It failed after @500 miles.

First failed gasket.

On my second attempt, I still used the grease, but got a torque wrench, but I still think I over-tightened the bolts at the upper end of the torque spec. This time, I only got about 200 miles until this failure occurred.
Second failed gasket.

Now, I've been though a bunch of threads on this forum dealing with valve cover gaskets. Lots of folks seem to have good results coating the gasket some type of grease, but I think more use WD-40.

Yesterday, I picked up my new tires and explained my gasket issues to my mechanic. He about blew his top when I mentioned WD-40 or greasing the gasket at all. He said I should put it on dry and ditch the torque wrench and just develop a feel for how tight the bolts should be. Something I obviously haven't gotten a knack for yet. Well, third time's a charm, right?

Sorry, this doesn't answer any of your questions. Just figured misery loves company.

 

[Guest]

fwiw, the 16 v gaskets are entirely different than the 8v ones, much thinner. On my 1100, I use the extreme low end of the torque values, like even lower than speced....the 16v gasket likes to do just what your pics show.....i keep an eye on the bolts and have had less problems since keeping the torque values very low....
As to the op.....I WOULD suggest a "real gasket".....buuuuuuut......the tach drive in the valve cover makes that a non-option, UNLESS they have fixed the issue with the thickness.... If you arent familiar, the "real gasket" is a silicone aftermarket gasket, that is re-usable. Torque values on that one are REALLY LOW, like finger tight......but again, maybe not even a possibility b/c of the tach gear, and controversial in any case (do a search....).....plus, it doesnt address the underlying cause of the trouble.....

Sorry this rambling isnt of more help....

tom96, I'm following because I seem to be having a similar problem. I changed the valve cover gasket last winter. I used a thin layer this grease

to lightly coat the both sides of the gasket (OEM). I didn't have a in-lb torque wrench and I'm pretty sure I over-tightened the bolts. It failed after @500 miles.

First failed gasket.

On my second attempt, I still used the grease, but got a torque wrench, but I still think I over-tightened the bolts at the upper end of the torque spec. This time, I only got about 200 miles until this failure occurred.
Second failed gasket.

Now, I've been though a bunch of threads on this forum dealing with valve cover gaskets. Lots of folks seem to have good results coating the gasket some type of grease, but I think more use WD-40.

Yesterday, I picked up my new tires and explained my gasket issues to my mechanic. He about blew his top when I mentioned WD-40 or greasing the gasket at all. He said I should put it on dry and ditch the torque wrench and just develop a feel for how tight the bolts should be. Something I obviously haven't gotten a knack for yet. Well, third time's a charm, right?

Sorry, this doesn't answer any of your questions. Just figured misery loves company.

 

[Brendan W]

Can't help but think that the hole location in the gasket and or the tightening sequence has something to do with this..
The front of the tunnel looks like the gasket had walked out of place before the two screws were dropped in and when they did go in they pulled the gasket which was not free to align with the holes ?
I would lay the gasket on the head and put all the screws in all the holes and see what's what. A little trimming at this stage could prevent tearing later and when the cover goes on, all screws engaged before tightening and tighten gradually in a sequence keeping an eye on the gasket for walking in or out from the face.
I put grease on them not for sealing but so they don't stick and I get a second use out of them.

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

I'll probably jinx myself for even thinking this. But, so far-so good. I put the new gasket on dry, made sure to finger-tighten the bolts in a criss-cross pattern from inside to outside, then the same with my 1/4" drive torque wrench set to 50 in-lb (just over 4 ft-lb), the spec is 6-7.5 ft-lb. Drove over 150 miles this weekend. still dry. fingers crossed.