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Valve Gap adjustments

  • Thread starter Thread starter mortation
  • Start date Start date
Tarbash 27 said:
About how much bigger are the X's?
Click to expand...

The X shims are .02mm or .03mm thicker than the marked size.

For example, a "2.70x" shim will measure 2.72mm or 2.73mm.

You can't buy "x" shims -- they were only used at the factory, so any "x" shims you find are either original or were swapped in at some point. I have shims from three engines in my collection (plus lots of aftermarket shims I've purchased), and I think maybe five or six are "x" shims.

I don't know if "x" shims were the result of ultra-precise manufacturing standards or just a way to use up slightly out-of-tolerance shims.

The "x" shims can be handy if you're picky enough to want to set the clearance in the middle of the range (.05mm) rather than at one end of the allowed range (.03mm - .08mm). That's getting into a dangerous level of obsession, but if you have "x" shims, you might as well use them.

You should always measure shims before installing -- I've always found the Suzuki shims to be dead on as marked, but some aftermarket shims might be off by .01mm or .02mm. And, of course, many shims somehow lose their markings totally along the way, so you're forced to measure them.

I have a divided plastic box with a spot for every size and a space for the tappet tool and feeler gauges, and I track the results of each valve check in a notebook. That way, I can usually predict which shims I'll need next and make sure I have them handy.
 
Last edited:
mortation said:
How bout this one:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-...0QQihZ018QQcategoryZ43991QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Click to expand...

Yup, that's exactly what I have. The Chinese-made unit with the red, yellow, and blue buttons seems to be pretty common and inexpensive. It's surprisingly high quality, and mine has been dead accurate and perfectly consistent for the three or four years I've had it. The button battery will poop out after a year or so, but they thoughtfully include a spare, and it's a common size.
 
OK My gauges only go down to .038, here is where I am at:

1 Intake: OK
1 Exhaust: OK

2 Intake: OK
2 Exhaust: >.038 (could be out of range)

3 Intake: OK
3 Exhaust: >.038 (Could be out of range)

4 Intake: >.038 (Could be out of range)
4 Exhaust: OK

In my "don't know jack" opinion I think at least one if not all of the >.038's are touching. You can feel it when spinning. But like I would know :P

Soooo whats everyones thoughts? Scrounge up the flow for some proper gauges, a shim tool, and some shims? I already need gaskets, they didnt wanna come off ;)

I have covered the engine with a trash bag because i could already see dust particles and I dont want crap in there, will that be ok till I get this done?

PS: Anyone in NH who wants free food and beer who has shims and tools let me know when you want to come over ;)
 
Usually, all I do when they're touching or smaller than .04mm is take out the shim that's in there, measure it, and put in the next smaller size.

Since you don't have a stock of spare shims, you'll need to document all 8 of the shims you have.

*** Do NOT rotate the engine with ANY shim removed. ***
In order to swap any shims, you would need at least one extra shim. Since you don't have any extras, measure all of them, put them back, then plan your moves before you order shims.

Personally, I would simply order the next smaller two sizes for each of the tight valves.

For example, if there's a 2.75mm shim on a valve with little or no clearance, order a 2.70 and a 2.65 and you can be fairly confident that one of those will take care of that valve.

Shims are only $5 each from Z1 or CRC2. Order lots:
http://z1enterprises.com/
http://crc2onlinecatalog.com/
 
Hopefully my tappet depressor will be in tomorrow so I can wrap this part of the project up (well after ordering and installing the shims :P). When I install the cover on the new gasket do I put anything down, sealant or something? Or just torq it down criss cross and done?
 
I just finished my valves 4 days ago. I Cleaned up the valve cover gasket nice as well as the cylinder head and put a new gasket on and it fit real good. I did not use any sealant because I dont expect it to leak. Consider getting a new breather cover gasket too and clean that thing out.
 
Tarbash 27 said:
I just finished my valves 4 days ago. I Cleaned up the valve cover gasket nice as well as the cylinder head and put a new gasket on and it fit real good. I did not use any sealant because I dont expect it to leak. Consider getting a new breather cover gasket too and clean that thing out.
Click to expand...

Yea I got both gaskets. Anythign special on the cleaning? Chemicals? Scrubs? Anything I should watch out for?
 
bwringer said:
Usually, all I do when they're touching or smaller than .04mm is take out the shim that's in there, measure it, and put in the next smaller size.

Since you don't have a stock of spare shims, you'll need to document all 8 of the shims you have.

Personally, I would simply order the next smaller two sizes for each of the tight valves.

For example, if there's a 2.75mm shim on a valve with little or no clearance, order a 2.70 and a 2.65 and you can be fairly confident that one of those will take care of that valve.

Shims are only $5 each from Z1 or CRC2. Order lots:
http://z1enterprises.com/
http://crc2onlinecatalog.com/
Click to expand...


Measuring all 8 shims is ideal but not necessary at this point. You can attack the valves that are tight and wait till next time on the others. But of course, you may be in the same situation next time in that you may have to order shims.
 
Are the 29.5mm Valve Shim's from CRC2 the right ones?

I need if anyone has:

2 x 2.55
3 x 2.50
 
a preload adjuster tool seems to make a great tappet holder.

my two cents. for all I know I'm destroying the whole thing
 
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