Valve Grinding Compound

[Wingnut]

I have two new uses for valve grinding compound to share.
1. When trying to remove Philips head screws from the crankcase or where ever, if you do not have an impact screw driver or even if you do, put a small dab of valve grinding compound in the head of the screw before inserting the screw driver. It increases the grip of the screwdriver or apex, whatever you are using, several times over. Actually I use an apex in a 1/4 deep socket, give it couple of sharp blows with a hammer, then the compound, and they almost always come right out. I don't have an impact and have never needed one.

2. For those of you like me that have the choke knob in the middle of the steering stem, (whatever possesed them to put it there?) these things tend to not stay up in the choked position, Pull up the rubber boot and unscrew the plastic friction adjusting nut. Work a small amount of compound into the friction teeth (three liitle plastic nubs) and a little bit on the shaft. Instant friction! Tighten the friction nut back down only enough to keep the knob up in the coke position.

 

[Anonymous]

Just remember that when you have the valve grinding paste in your hand, don't use it to grind valve seats. The GS heads need a facing tool and don't like grinding paste. (According to the service manual)

Kim

 

[Paul]

I've always lightly lapped in the valves with just a touch of grinding paste. This ensures a seal between the valve & seat. If the seats have been recut, and the valve angles aren't spot-on you may end up with leaking seats.

 

[Wingnut]

Seems the key here is to just be sure to wash the heads when your done.

 

[Anonymous]

The Suzuki manual is very definite about not using paste. They say to cut the seat with a seat cutter to a velvet finish and leave it. The first few minutes of running then does the rest. I imagine it's something to do with the possibility of valve seat regression more than leakage.

Kim