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Wanted: Pics of GSXR Top Triples with risers & flat bars fitted

salty_monk

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I'm currently using the clip-ons with a bent bar on each side with about 3" of rise on them.

Unfortunately I still find it uncomfortable, not just the reach but also the angle the clipons hold the throttle at..... although it may grow on me with more riding.

My idea now is to either build some more custom bars to fit the clipons with perhaps a bit more rise & maybe change that angle (I did have some with 5" of rise on there (see photo) but they snapped. The angle of the grips still didn't feel comfortable.

I measured the angle on my skunk & the angle on the GSXR & the angle of the stock 750ES clipons.

The GSXR & the 750ES ones use the same angle, the Skunk has a 20 degree difference (with daytona bars). The Skunk one are much closer to being a straight across bar.

So.. I'm looking to find out what everyone else has done....

Maybe I'll pick up one of those Easton bar sets or perhaps some other kind of riser for another Daytona bar. The top triple does not seem super thick though (around 6-7mm) in the spot I'd have to drill to fit them. I guess it would work out but maybe a 2 bolt riser is better than a 1 bolt like the Easton set.
http://www.cyclegear.com/spgm.cfm?L1=&L2=&L3=&L4=&item=BEL_2010947_G

These are the 5" rise bars... the guys who made them used the wrong spec tube so they are no more... :D

IMG_2405.jpg


IMG_2410.jpg


 
Here's mine. Not flat bars, but you get the idea. The risers are single bolt and I just drilled the top triple and bolted them on.

Paul
 
No risers, but mx clamps with a flat bar, on a custom top triple for a gsxr front end...
 
Thanks....

Nasty - have you ridden it yet. That's exactly what I'm thinking of doing. Similar bar too. When I said flat I really meant any full bar like yours, not a clipon.

Dan :)
 
Something like this ?

risers are bolted through with a single bolt then welded :)

front-1.jpg
 
I don't really want to weld them if possible....

Just wondering if a 2 bolt set might be better in that case. The 1 bolt would definitely be easier to fit on the triple though (no problem topside it's the underside that will be tight.

Dan :)
 
I have this setup, with two bolts.There is a pic of them in my photos albun on my profile.I usually weld them,it was a first try with 2 bolts.
The webbing portion under the top yoke is filled with weld to give a flat surface for the screw.I,m pleased with this setup.
Marc
 
Welding aluminum takes all the temper out. Is this not an issue?
 
Welding aluminum takes all the temper out. Is this not an issue?

Ed,
I will plead ignorance; However apparently the loss of temper is related to distance from the weld. How much dunno.

http://www.lincolnelectric.com/knowledge/articles/content/comistakes.asp

Also it is pretty common in motorcycle fabrication to weld aluminum, triple, frames and swing arms.

There is a section of the link that is "telling"

An obvious question is whether anything can be done to restore material properties after welding a strain-hardened material. Unfortunately, the answer is almost always no. The only way to harden these materials is through mechanical deformation, and this is almost never practical for welded structures.

It would appear that most aluminum parts on the older motorcycles that are welded were never heat treated (e.g GSXR frames and GS/GSXR swing arms). It begs the question as to whether a cast triple clamp was also heat treated (likely not other wise it would be billet).

I don't think any of Katmans swing arms have been hardened after welding on the shock mounts and the loads there are certainly as high as the triple clamp.

I have seen no evidence of failure; I supect i will notice if there is anything abrupt.
 
It's typical to temper aluminum parts after welding, but some alloys are more forgiving than others so it all depends on the alloy. For example, 7005 doesn't need to be tempered but 6061 does. I remember reading that the alloy Suzuki choose for their early GSXR frames would age harden without a special tempering process, but unless you know what you are working with it's kind of risky I think.
 
It's typical to temper aluminum parts after welding, but some alloys are more forgiving than others so it all depends on the alloy. For example, 7005 doesn't need to be tempered but 6061 does. I remember reading that the alloy Suzuki choose for their early GSXR frames would age harden without a special tempering process, but unless you know what you are working with it's kind of risky I think.

I will ask around tommorow and see what I can find out :-\\\
 
The clipons are growing on me.... it might just be a case of getting used to it. The 3" rise is aggressive but not huge, sort of VFR rather than CBR if you get my drift.

I'm wondering if drilling them, add a bush to bring it level with the rib (biggest that will fit) then add a sandwich plate connecting the underside of one to the other would be the best route... that way one side would support the other to a degree.

Dan :)
 
Just fyi
i usually simply bolt my risers through the top yoke with a spacer & big washer as salty monk suggests, although i have welded a few with no problems whatsoever

i prefer to use single bolt risers as the only proplem ive ever had is with twin bolt ones which started to crack the yoke between the holes for one of the risers, i welded these on for extra security & that solved the problem

cheer slim :)
 
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