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Weak spark

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Not enough voltage to start the bike with an electronic igniter. You have to solve the cranking voltage drop before your bike has a chance to run. You could try a fully charged automotive battery out of the vehicle (a running vehicle will make toast out of your electrical system). Maybe if you hear it run once, or try to you will give up on perusing unproductive avenues of diagnosis. I know I have mentioned more than once that low voltage will not start a bike with electronic ignition. Your starter motor could be drawing too much for your battery, a lot of your electrical connections could still need cleaning or there could be a problem with the igniter. Valves might need adjusting or you could have a fuel flow problem. Work on eliminating each problem one at a time. The connectors you are using are crap, and a good clean visual connection between wire and connector that you can check each side of the bullet for continuity will ensure it isn't your crimp methods. I am not trying to hurt your feelings, just trying to get you to eliminate all problem areas that could prevent the motor from running so you don't keep chasing your tail and actually make logical progress with your troubleshooting. If you clear each possible problem one at a time you will eventually have success and learn a lot about your bike in the process.
 
And I'm thankful for your honesty. If I'm screwing up, call me out on it. It's all going to help me better understand the machine.

The connectors are crap? I'm using connectors recommended to me by the forum from CycleTerminal.

I went and got an El Cheapo circuit tester last night, and it revealed something interesting.

The positive (orange/white) wire has current flow 15705539042063728742128280432697.jpg
 
However, the white wire connection does not. I'll start at the connectors, and see if I crimped it wrong.

EDIT: I did not crimp it wrong. Power seems to flow on and off when I jiggle the black wire from the battery.
1570553982309743430889832263079.jpg
 
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The connectors are fine as long as the crimp is tight -
Exposed -- not so much -- they will need shrink wrap at the very least to insulate them -
I can understand leaving them 'open' for now may ease the process of trouble shooting - but if they short out on the frame = no bueno :(
 
That's my intention. Keeping them exposed will let me test the connection. When I'm finally satisfied with the connection, I do have some shrink wrap. I finally got the battery ground wire off (had to gut a couple of the airbox screws). I'm going to replace the wire, and hope that helps.
 
I switched the ground wire to the battery. A local mechanic tested mine, and said it didn't have good continuity, so he made me a new one. Just put everything back on... and still no light from the white wire. Interestingly enough, I get a light from the black wire coming from the left coil (with the yellow wire plugged into the orange/white wire). I have light at all of the fuses, so power is going through there.
15705708227622291865057763852233.jpg
 
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My bad. Did you get the crimp tool? They also have clear covers for those bullet connectors where you got them.
 
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No. I've limited funds. As I see it, as long as it's bound to the wire and the copper strands are touching the connectors, all is well.
 
PM me, I believe I have a single action set that I don't use anymore if I can find it. At 72 the strength in my hands are not what it used to be, I have to use a double action set.
 
ZombiePotatoSalad said:
No. I've limited funds. As I see it, as long as it's bound to the wire and the copper strands are touching the connectors, all is well.
Click to expand...


This is the one thing I have been saying for years ---

Munk's Maxim: "There is no such thing as a cheap motorcycle"

Edit: - Don't be discouraged - with patience and persistence you can get it going
 
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Would getting a Dyna ignition system resolve this?
My bike doesn't have points, it has an ignitor. The problem is, I can find almost nothing for testing an ignitor. All the videos are for setting points. I'm thinking of just cutting open the wiring harness and following the white wire to see where it goes.

Both the orange and white wires lead to a box under the airbox. The fun part will be getting to it.
 
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I found this under the airbox. Could it be the source of my problems? Apparently, it'sthe infamous CDI box I've heard so much about, but never could find. 1570642022648306256173724954334.jpg
 
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I know the white wire runs to the ignition coil for cylinders 1 and 4. It also goes down to the CDI box. Where else does it go?

Edit: unplugging the CDI box makes the circuit tester light come on for the white wire.
 
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cowboyup3371 said:
That is not a CDI but your ignitor
Click to expand...

I thought the ignitor was on the right side, under the DOHC cap. Any time I look up "ignitor" on Google, I see that disc thing that goes there under the DOHC cap. When I look up CDI, I see that black box.

Although my bike already has an electronic ignition stock, would changing to a Dynatech system be better? I've heard they bypass the CDI, signal generator, whatever. Basically, all the stuff that I'm having problems with.
 
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The signal generator is under the front right cap. I can't say if it would be any better as I haven't made the change but others will chime in soon I'm sure
 
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