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What battery to buy?

Joe Nardy said:
After listening to opinions and gathering info I went with the $30 Interstate brand from Sam's Club. Gel types run $60-$65 and don't last twice as long as standard types. Since I run PODs it is very easy to check and fill my battery so maintenance isn't much of an issue. My bikes are garage kept and I charge the batteries before storage and again in spring. I just couldn't justify twice the cost.

Joe
Click to expand...

From my post on page 1 of this thread:
Boondocks said:
I recently bought a Lynn Vick WP14L-2 Sealed AGM Battery at Chaparral Motorsports for $43.99...
Click to expand...

That's $14 more than you paid. An AGM battery should last significantly longer than an old style flooded lead-acid motorcycle battery.
 
Well, I went the BatteryMart route, and ordered a "Big Crank" for $58 including shipping.

The Sams's Club battery I bought last summer should have lasted longer than six months, and I don't feel like dealing with the acid / vent tube issues anymore...

If I had looked a little closer I MIGHT have decided to spring for the $65 Yuasa, only becuase it advertises 10 more CCAmps than the others (200 vs 190), and it advertises one year free replacement warranty.

I think I'll do just fine, though, with the one I ordered...

Regards,
 
Boondocks said:
I recently bought a Lynn Vick WP14L-2 Sealed AGM Battery at Chaparral Motorsports for $43.99. I added a Battery Tender Plus for $34.97, five Hiflofiltro Oil Filters @$3.99 each (filters come with 2 O-Rings), and a rear axle clip for 1.69 to bring the total to $100.60. Orders over $100 ship free.

The battery was shipped fully charged, and it works fine. One thing that I did notice is that the packaging listed the battery as 12 AH. The battery configuration chart that I used to order this battery shows a WP14L-2 as being 14AH with 190 CCA. It's a size match for the YB14L-A2. I'm through with flooded batteries, no matter the price. Not ever having to check the electrolyte, greater reliability and longer battery life is worth the extra price to me.
Click to expand...

Boondocks, are you happy still with this battery? I need to replace my YB14L-A2, but I wasn't quite sure what you meant in terms of 12AH vs 14AH. Trying to decide if I can save money on this one or if I'll need to buy a more expensive yuasa or similar. Thanks!
 
J_C said:
Boondocks, are you happy still with this battery? I need to replace my YB14L-A2, but I wasn't quite sure what you meant in terms of 12AH vs 14AH. Trying to decide if I can save money on this one or if I'll need to buy a more expensive yuasa or similar. Thanks!
Click to expand...

Yes, I'm very pleased with the battery performance. It spins the engine very fast when starting, so fast that it usually starts instantly. Don't worry about the 12AH on the battery packaging. The older method of using AH (ampere hours) for battery capacity has been generally superceded by CCA (cold cranking amps). According to a specification chart that I located for the WP14L-2 battery type, it has a 14AH and 190 CCA rating. The "14" in WP14L-2 is the rated ampere hour capacity at a 10 hour rate. It's a direct replacement for the YB14L-A2 at a very good price for an AGM battery. I'm very happy with it, and it's a good value.
 
Excellent, thanks! My brand new (to me) GS won't start without a jump from a car, and then it won't idle except on full choke. I figured it's definetely time for a new one. Cheers for the help!
 
J_C said:
Excellent, thanks! My brand new (to me) GS won't start without a jump from a car, and then it won't idle except on full choke. I figured it's definetely time for a new one. Cheers for the help!
Click to expand...
J_C,

The starting problem is probably battery related. The full choke problem is most likely dirty carbs. I've been there myself...........

Thanks,
Joe
 
Thanks Joe. I've read a lot in here that it won't idle without a good battery. Since battery is my first task, and carb cleaning/rebuild is up next, I figure I'll nail it either way ;)
 
I just got a Dekka sealed battery for mine at the local Yamaha dealer for $54.00.
 
My new battery arrived today!! Haven't installed it yet, but may do so tonight...

Regards,
 
Installed it ... turns the bike over quite nicely (although it doesn't want to start -- doh!) One thing you'll want to check is what the terminals look like. On my new battery the terminals are set up to be used in several different configurations (top or side post installation), but because of this they don't allow the original rubber boot to fit over the positive connection.

This isn't a big deal for me, as I can easily fabricate a protective boot, but if you're picky you'll want to make sure the terminals match those of the original...

Regards,
 
I'll put in my two cents for gel batteries. I have bought my last liquid motorcycle battery.

I ride a motorcycle because it's fun, not because I have to. I maintain a motorcycle because I have to, not because it's fun. I'm always looking to optimize that ratio.
 
Last edited:
I've always used the standard Yuasa's. You do have to keep track of the cell water levels. They can drop sooner than you think. Mine is easy to check with no air box in the way. Use only distilled water to top off. Put in l-i-t-t-l-e amounts at a time or it's easy to over-fill.
 
Question on liquid batteries: does each cell have its own independent resevoir or are they connected to share them? I noticed on my battery that all but two cells are full (at the top fill line) but the other two are in the middle. They don't seem to change.
 
The cells do not share electrolyte - each one has to be filled seperately, and each one will tend to have it's own rate of evaporation when the water portion of the electrolyte solution evaporates.

Chad
 
bexabarr said:
Should I bite the bullet???

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...d=1,1&item=4627053646&sspagename=STRK:MEWA:IT

and buy some acid locally?? can you buy acid locally?? how much would that cost?
Click to expand...

I wouldn't buy this battery. It's not a Yuasa, it's not an expensive battery, and by the time your add the freight it's not that good a deal for an "As Is, No Warranty" battery. You can probably find one with a warranty for about the same price with acid at a Walmart or local discount store.

"Can Be Stored For 10 Years":-s or Was Stored For 10 Years.:) Dry charged batteries have a long shelf life, but 10 years is pushing the envelope.
 
The battery I got at Sam's Club for my bike was an Interstate Brand. It was $28 plus tax and included acid. Be sure to bring an old battery or there is a $7 core charge. I actually brought two which saved me the hassle of trying to properly dispose of them. Sam's Club or Wal-Mart will take returns on almost anything for almost any reason.

Thanks,
Joe
 
Does anyone know if you need to treat sealed (maint. free) batteries differently when charging? I have a "dumb" 1A charger and have heard thirdhand that using it may be damaging my battery - right now basically I just plug it in overnight if it's not turning the bike over... which it isn't for the 3rd time.

Not sure if the issue right now is my battery (it was new this spring) or my charging sys on the bike, but it started great and after 1/2 hour riding won't start at all... down to 10.1 V :(

So I need to know if I need to buy a new batt, charger, or both.

Thanks
Nick
 
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