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what did you wrench on today??

Replaced the stator. Boy, was getting some of the screws off hard. Was afraid I would strip the heads, but multiple application of Liquid Wrench and impact driver made the day. Changed oil and filter at the same time.
 
Hey Red good to hear from you. I'm off on Fridays usually the best day for me to ride.
 
IMG_20140705_191938_554_zpsba4d240f.jpg


Header painting finished. 4 coats of vht flame proof primer then 6 coats of black vht. Tomorrow put it back on and cure it.
 
I installed a Vista Cruise Control on the bike yesterday as I will have to slab it down to Kentucky on Friday night when the family and I go to Lexington for a horse show. As I hate riding on the interstate, I wanted something to take some of the stress away. Anyway, I installed it per the instructions but couldn't get it to work properly as the bike would slow down after engaging it without regard to how tight the band was set.

Today, Steve found a suitable fix by epoxying the throttle tube to the grip because we believe the grip's movement caused the Vista to slip. It's working properly now.
 
Assbiscuits and robbery - looks like a knackered crank bearing on #1 cylinder. I'll pull plugs and determine exactly what pot it is, but the blowing exhaust was masking the sound of the clunk and when that was quietened down the rattle became more obvious.
I've read all the threads about the starter clutch and the clutch hub nut, and I'd be surprised if it's either of those. Blowerbike hit it on the head, I think, when he listened to another one and said it's more serious than that.
I was living in hope (and a bit of denial) because I already knew these engines sound terminal with a bad cyl head exhaust blow, but this is more.
 
Rode down to Keiser to GSJohny's place and did a little tuning on the carbs, checked compression, then checked charging.....toast stator and rr. Rode home he followed and sent him packing with a new stator/rr/turn signals and headlight.

V
 
Small stuff. Removed the speedo and tach cables to try and solve the bouncing needles. Cleaned out the housings with break cleaner and WD-40. Lubed the housings and cable with lithium grease and reinstalled. I hope this takes care of the bounce. If not I'll have to remove the speedo and tach and see what I can do.

Cheers!
K
 
86 Honda Shadow VT500

86 Honda Shadow VT500

None of my 4 spark plug sockets were 18 mm, so had to get one.
And that not work, was to thick of sidewall for what little clearance there was around the spark plug. Had multi-day adventure at various part stores and even Harbor Fright. Did find deep well socket at Menards that looked like thiner sidewall (but not specified as such), and that worked.

Next step was to remove the 4 valve clearance adjusmnet covers, 8mm bolt heads with awkward access. Was what looked like an air breather tube in the way, so thought I would remove that, and had coolant flowing all over -DOAH!
THen rounded off 2 of the bolts. But then took off more stuff than the manual suggested to get some some better access. Cut slots in them with hacksaw blade. THen used hammer impact to get out the bolts.

Got the inspection covers off
TO find like this (two intake valves operated by one cam/rocker)
IMG_7141_zpsaa25f21c.jpg

With a box end wrench with offset can operate the lock nut, but not finding anything to operate that square part of the adjustment. Supose could use cressent wrench, but would rather have a socket.
THink I can find anything like that at tool store..?
Measures 4mm with caliper.
 
Dave, drill a hole in a piece of metal and square up the hole with a needle file. I used a paint can opener which I had flattened the end on to make the one for a job I did a few years back.
I'll take a picture of it in the morning.
 
Redman said:
None of my 4 spark plug sockets were 18 mm, so had to get one.
And that not work, was to thick of sidewall for what little clearance there was around the spark plug. Had multi-day adventure at various part stores and even Harbor Fright. Did find deep well socket at Menards that looked like thiner sidewall (but not specified as such), and that worked.

Next step was to remove the 4 valve clearance adjusmnet covers, 8mm bolt heads with awkward access. Was what looked like an air breather tube in the way, so thought I would remove that, and had coolant flowing all over -DOAH!
THen rounded off 2 of the bolts. But then took off more stuff than the manual suggested to get some some better access. Cut slots in them with hacksaw blade. THen used hammer impact to get out the bolts.

Got the inspection covers off
TO find like this (two intake valves operated by one cam/rocker)
IMG_7141_zpsaa25f21c.jpg

With a box end wrench with offset can operate the lock nut, but not finding anything to operate that square part of the adjustment. Supose could use cressent wrench, but would rather have a socket.
THink I can find anything like that at tool store..?
Measures 4mm with caliper.
Click to expand...

If you have a full set of metric ignition wrenches, the tiny one will fit the square head. That is what I used for years until I order a set (it is a set of 3 different sizes that can be interchanged with each other) of valve lash adjusting tools from Dennis Kirk. They work really nice. I believe Z1 has them as well.
 
Preparatory to wrenching: cleared/shifted some crap around and moved the XS from the kitchen to the workshop. Some serious oil leaks from the bottom of that engine, and it's unknown territory.
 
Redman said:
Got the inspection covers off
TO find like this (two intake valves operated by one cam/rocker)
IMG_7141_zpsaa25f21c.jpg

With a box end wrench with offset can operate the lock nut, but not finding anything to operate that square part of the adjustment. Supose could use cressent wrench, but would rather have a socket.
THink I can find anything like that at tool store..?
Measures 4mm with caliper.
Click to expand...

Make your own tool.

I used a square drive wood screw with the correct size drive, screwed into a wooden dowel in a convenient length. Kind of like a screwdriver with the right tip for that adjuster. I made three or four of them in a few different lengths to better fit the different bikes. Made one that has the screw crosswise too, it worked better for one of the bikes.

Very easy to use with one hand while holding a wrench for the locknut in the other hand.

And if you happen to lose this fine quality tool you can make another in about two minutes.
 
tkent02 said:
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.
..
Click to expand...

Tom, Dale and others,
Thanks.
Will gather up a couple of those deck screws with the square drive next chance I get.

I proceeded with just using a pair of plyers and a 3/8 6point socket that would somewhat half fit (would fall inside if not carefull).
Both exhaust and intak on rear cylinder were good, maybe closer to the 5 thou than the 4 thou and the access so bad, that I just left it.
THe front was so tight, no wiggle at all, zero clearance. Made me think I didn't have crank on the front mark, so checked that again. Took a lot of adjustment to get the 4 thou clearance.
Waiting for the replacement bolts, O-rings and gaskets to put back together.

Thanks again, guys.
You should know that I got more and better responses here than I did on Honda Shadow Network forum. But of course on there not many have the 500s (only 83-86) , and on there an '06 is an old bike.

.
 
Last edited:
86 Honda Shadow 500 Valve Adjustment

86 Honda Shadow 500 Valve Adjustment

Just photos to show what limited access there is for this.

IMG_7152-all3-w1200_zps6fdca7d5.jpg
 
I started yesterday on my coil and headlight relay mod's... so far I've found a location for two of the 20A micro relays I got from Eastern Beaver for the headlight and removed some dodgy wiring I did in a hurry at one point for my little dash and the Acewell clock function.

I started work on lowering my electrics tray so I have a bit more room under the seat so I can find a better spot for my indicator relay.

Once that's done I can work out where my 3 way mini fuse block can mount safely as well as the third micro relay and then I can run the wires and get it all together again.

Lesson learnt... don't take dodgy shortcuts when doing electrical work just to get your bike on the road one day earlier... :rolleyes:

And I will have pic's too :)
 
Well it took me all weekend on and off but after playing musical electrical components and Tetris, I got her back together Sunday night just in time to watch MotoGP.

A little bare...



Headlight relays located under the dash:



I'll probably revisit this wiring with a neater way of running them but they're just cable tied for now and working:



The new electrics tray layout... the single ground bolt is getting busy! I also got to take advantage of the SH775 and ignitor mounting points being the same. That tray is 2.5mm thick aluminium so is a nice heatsink as well:



And my other new birthday present saved my back a lot of pain and grief:



Very happy with the job and I now have a 15A fuse running the harness like stock as well as a 10A fuse for the coils and another 10A fuse for the headlights. I now have no measurable drop in voltage to either the coils or the headlights from the battery :D

I also managed to remove the extra fuse for the Acewell clock by running it from the harness fuse as well.
 
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