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what did you wrench on today??

Has anyone else seen a glass fuse fail in a non-visible manner?

Cheers, Alan

All the time; it's one reason why you'll find posts saying to verify the fuse is good by checking them with a test light instead of visually. Additionally, it's a good reason to upgrade the fuse block to a blade type. I have an Eastern Beaver model in both mine and my daughter's bikes.
 
Not GS -- But a GL -- 2002 Goldwing New Final Drive

Not GS -- But a GL -- 2002 Goldwing New Final Drive

The gearing on the Goldwing is ridiculously low - Often I will be still in the intersection while shifting out of 1st gear -
Not usually a problem but a PIA when turning (especially left) - and really unnecessary I think -
The Wing has enough oompph to start in 2nd gear without grunting and finally someone did soemthing about it -
With this bike being built from 2001 to 2016 there are MANY units out there and they all have this challenge
Some add a taller tire (from 60 series to 70 series) to help with the under gearing -
But an experienced hypoid gearing manufacturer is now making a Modified Final Drive that changes the gearing in the rear drive and lowers all the gears -
The lower RPMs at all speeds will be interesting -- but here I am putting on Production unit #13 (after prototypes where built and sorted over the past 2 years)

Gearing went from Honda OEM 2.75 to Modified 2.28 -- Dropping RPMs at 60 MPH by 500 RPM -
And with the lower final gearing raising top end to a theoretical calculated 177 MPH (which I will never do ;) )

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I put on the new decals today that I just got from member Frank Z. I didn't even know this was a thing til about a week ago. Thanks Frank!

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I also dabbled in a little bit of Testor's model paint to touch up some of the raised lettering on the instrument cluster
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This is a friend TIG welding a breather tank for my GS1000 crankcase secondary breather hose.

This hose currently vents to atmosphere so we are building a baffled & filtered breather tank to catch and condense any oil/fumes coming out of the crankcase.

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Yesterday...
My bike has has a lean pop on deceleration / closed throttle for a while that gets worse as the weather cools. I raised the pilot needles a half turn.
No more popcorn on last nights ride. Much better idle as well.
 
Installed Pirelli Sport Demon tires on my GS750 yesterday. Compared to the K70's I've been running for three years, this things are awesome! Much more responsive; they feel great. I think they look really cool, too.

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I'm digging back into the FZ1. I had the head inspected and tested and it all checked out good so that's not the culprit for my engine noises. I'm also replacing clutch plates but I'm pretty sure there's no issues there. I'm starting to think I have rod bearing problem(s) which will NOT be fun.
 
I got the rear off to be replaced. I don't understand why I was under the impression I had to remove the shocks, the wheel can easily be removed with them on. I also think removing the bolt for the torque arm serves no purpose.

I got the other end of the torque arm off, and was able to get my brake line into the thing.

I tried to get the studs for the brake disc off, but the two nut trick is failing me today (I only have the ratchet, Ill try again tomorrow). I really want to get the original bolts on it.

Snapped one bolt off, gaawh.
 
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What? The new bike?
Not exactly new anymore. Due to my stupidity of installing the cam chain tensioner incorrectly, I've created a bad engine rattle I haven't been able to track down. After an exhaustive upper engine investigation and replacing several things, it's still there. So, on to the lower end.
 
The Acewell on the 450 died at the end of last year and I went back to a mechanical speedo, but lost my tacho as a result. I got a GS500 tacho early this year but have only now finally got around to installing it. Found a stainless camping cup that's the perfect size to make a housing for it so it matches the stainless speedo now too. That's not an original idea, I found the tip via Mr Google on a Triumph forum.

I like the big tacho and small speedo, although the front's a little messy with all the control cables being condensed due to having the clubman 'bars.

Untitled by starpoint73, on Flickr

Untitled by starpoint73, on Flickr
 
Is there any pressure up there anyway? Seems like the breather would release any built up pressure. Maybe after a lengthy ride with oil splashing around in there would be more revealing if it was to leak.
I think there will still be some pressure buildup to a point. Increase in heat means increase in pressure. Can't defy the laws of physics Captain!
 
Went to put the crankcase halves back together after putting in a "new to me" crankshaft and piston rod for number 3 cylinder of the FZ1. Clymer said to torque the 6mm bolts to 106 ft lbs. It stated that in three different places. I thought it sounded like an awful lot, especially since my two torque wrenches only go up to 80 ft lbs. Did some more research and, yes, it's supposed to be 106 in lbs. Crikey!
 
I'm sorry, but I'm laughing at the FZ1 reinstallation difficulty. They're lighter than a GS1100 - or a 750 for that matter. Try a Laverda triple. Just like a motorcycle - only heavier.
I have a bench here with a permanent bend in it from doing a couple of triples. And getting one back in can require three people unless you lay it on it's side and put the frame over it...

Anyway, I've been fighting electrical gremlins for several days now. A little racebike - half an FZR250/4 - a twin. The hacksaw special, lol. Std Yamaha ignition on a simple loom with single lead coils.
And no spark. Did a final check for continuity this morning before returning various components to the seller - and the darn thing worked. No idea what's different but I'll take it.
Then before putting it on the rollers and firing it up, I checked the tyre pressures - and the rear valve was torn.
So a mad rush to get it to a shop before the weekend - a long one here. Valve duly changed
So tomorrow it's back into sorting carburation. 28mm semi-downdraft Keihins (off an NSR250 Honda) running at a steeper angle than they are designed for. It's close but not yet good enough to road test.
 
I'm sorry, but I'm laughing at the FZ1 reinstallation difficulty. They're lighter than a GS1100 - or a 750 for that matter. Try a Laverda triple. Just like a motorcycle - only heavier.
I have a bench here with a permanent bend in it from doing a couple of triples. And getting one back in can require three people unless you lay it on it's side and put the frame over it...

Anyway, I've been fighting electrical gremlins for several days now. A little racebike - half an FZR250/4 - a twin. The hacksaw special, lol. Std Yamaha ignition on a simple loom with single lead coils.
And no spark. Did a final check for continuity this morning before returning various components to the seller - and the darn thing worked. No idea what's different but I'll take it.
Then before putting it on the rollers and firing it up, I checked the tyre pressures - and the rear valve was torn.
So a mad rush to get it to a shop before the weekend - a long one here. Valve duly changed
So tomorrow it's back into sorting carburation. 28mm semi-downdraft Keihins (off an NSR250 Honda) running at a steeper angle than they are designed for. It's close but not yet good enough to road test.
Well, I'm glad I can provide some humor to your day.
 
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