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What do you guys think about switching to allen head bolts?

GabrielGoes

Forum Mentor
i just ordered an allen head kit for my bike clutch cover etc. and because many of my phillips heads were severely stripped by the previous owner.. wee i was in the clutch doing stuff today and i was using an impact driver and it just cracked open every phillips head with EASE its the best tool in the world... now im switching to allen heads when they come in the mail... do you guys think its easier to strip allen heads or phillips heads? atleast with the phillips heads you can use an impact driver you know.. i would imagine allen head bolts are easier to strip even if there was allen head impact drivers...
 
Most of us recommend it, many of us have done it. :-\\\

Don't forget a bit of Anti-Sieze on the new bolts when you put them in. :o

.
 
Allens rule and Phillips heads drool...and strip more easily than just about any other drive type.
Don't get me wrong, Phillips heads have their place, and that place is IN WOOD not metal.
I changed out the screws on my carbs for hex heads (least strip prone of all) and plan to change the float bowl screws to Allens (no room for hex there)
The only reason I like Phillips heads for wood is you can drive them in with a drill/driver with a Phillips bit without the formality of drilling a hole first. Just lean on the drill a bit and pull the trigger.
Otherwise, it's allen, torx, and hex heads all the way.
 
Allen heads are much more difficult to strip. I prefer the stainless steel for the looks, durability and hardness. Phillips are umm, less than perfect.
 
Was thinking of doing this as well. Is there a source that sells a kit for my bike so I do not have to locate each individual piece? 1978 GS750...
 
I think 90% of the problem with stripped Phillips case & cover bolts is using the wrong tool for the job.. That or just plain worn out drivers..

First off the Japanese Phillips (JIS) is not the same as a US spec Phillips screw.
Using a US spec driver on a JIS screw is a great way to strip out the heads..
The US drivers will not fully seat in the JIS head..

The JIS slot was designed to not cam out like the US Phillips so with the right driver they grip extremely well.. So well it's possible to snap the heads off the smaller screws.

People usually look at me like I'm nuts when I bring this up.. It's one of those things you'll just have to try for yourself.

The Chinese appear to be following the JIS standard.. The drivers work great on all the kids toys. They have become the most used screw drivers in the house.. I need to get a 2nd set because my wife keeps borrowing them.

The next point is size..

The 6mm bolts (case, covers, carb holders) take a #3 driver..
the smaller ones like the gauge cluster and headlight bolts take a #2
#1 is good for the turn signal cover screws.

Search for JIS on McMasterCarr.. They have a nice set of #1-#4 JIS drivers for $15

Even with the right drivers I went ahead and replaced any bolt I can with stainless socket head bolts. ( Allen drive) as they are just easier to work with.
 
Was thinking of doing this as well. Is there a source that sells a kit for my bike so I do not have to locate each individual piece? 1978 GS750...
Yes. Z1Enterprises carries them.
 
Hi,

I put the Z1 kit on my engine.

DSCF2900.jpg



I think you'll like it.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
okay guys i just got the kit and let me tell you it was the best upgrade i have done on my bike so far!!! so many of my bolts were stripped almost completly from the previous idiot owner!! the phillips head screws looked like rounded out circles haha and they were rusted to the point of no return... all brand new allen heads RIGHT IN!! i just did a clutch job and them bolts cracked right open!! back in they went beautifully. you just have to treat each one with respect and these allen heads are the best friggin things ever made hahaha
 
Thanks for the tip...looks like Z1 will be getting more of my $$.
YVW. Just remember to call them every time you want to deal with them. They have so much more to offer than what is on their web site. Fantastic group of folk, very wise in the ways of classic UJMs. I haven't talked to Jeff himself in a long while, but he is a hoot if you ever do get to speak to him.
 
There's a shop in Waterbury, CT called The Nutty Company where I've gotten many replacement fasteners, including allen head cap screws. I recently had to replace the choke lever screw http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=160498 and I've also had to replace them in other areas as well. If you have the old screws, and digital calipers, you can often match them up at Lowes or other hardware stores, but if Z1 already has them assembled :dancing:
 
Suzuki part numbers give you the diameter and length of fasteners, so not much guess work is required. I love using 3/8" drive allen wrenches for breaking bolts loose and final torque, and Tee handled allens for spinning them in and out.
 
Allens are the way they shopuld have went from the factory..more break loose power when wrenching, easier to torque, dont strip out the cross like the dammmed phillips heads do!!
 
Suzuki part numbers give you the diameter and length of fasteners, so not much guess work is required. I love using 3/8" drive allen wrenches for breaking bolts loose and final torque, and Tee handled allens for spinning them in and out.

That is what I did..
Made a list from the part numbers and ran down to Tacoma Screw
http://www.tacomascrew.com

I got every cover bolt on the engine, all the carb bolts (caps, bowls, carb to frame, throttle bracket), carb holder bolts, and a few more here and there..

Another great stainless bolt source is bolt Depot
http://www.boltdepot.com

I may go back and replace some of the case bolts with stainless button heads.. I keep cutting my knuckles on the ones by the oil filler cap.
 
Most of us recommend it, many of us have done it. :-\\\

Don't forget a bit of Anti-Sieze on the new bolts when you put them in. :o

.
How about the hardened flange bolts, like the ones on the head cover? My guess is there O. K. because the torque is low there, but I would want to find some small washers to represent the coverage, or compression area, or whatever you call it, of the flange bolt. I worry about the high torque swap situations, out of ignorance. I do know, however, that bosh makes a special jig saw blades for cutting SS, which are lifesavers when the time comes. thanks
 
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