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What is the AC votage output of a failed stator?

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At 4000rpm I'm getting 3.2v, 4.6v, 4.6v which is way off from the 60v needed so I'm trying to figure out of that calls for a new stator or further testing before a new stator.

Also:
-Battery @ 12.00v DC turned off
-Battery @ 11.45 - 11.55v DC when running
-The resistance between all three pairs of the stator are 1.1, 1.2, 1.2
-All stator leg to ground tests yielded infinite resistance
- I have cleaned or replaced every stator, r/r, solenoid, battery, or other connection on the bike trying to sort this out.

Can anyone offer suggestions on where to go next on this because I think I'm about to start looking for a stator. If you do think I need a stator, would you recommend a used one if it can be had for under $50?
 
At 4000rpm I'm getting 3.2v, 4.6v, 4.6v which is way off from the 60v needed so I'm trying to figure out of that calls for a new stator or further testing before a new stator.
Were those measurements taken with the (d)vom in the AC position? recheck it please.
 
I just took the picture....
statorvac.jpg
 
Should the volt meter negative probe be plugged into the Ohms port? Shouldn't it be the Common port instead?
 
Should the volt meter negative probe be plugged into the Ohms port? Shouldn't it be the Common port instead?

Just what I was thinking. And isn't the knob turned to the 200 scale - ie that's 38 volts (though it isn't if the probe isn't plugged in properly). Time to have a look at the voltmeter manual maybe?
 
Should the volt meter negative probe be plugged into the Ohms port? Shouldn't it be the Common port instead?

You know I wondered the exact same thing. I have the exact same multimeter and got the duplicate VAC readings from either common out of my house wiring. So I doubt that's the issue. The only purpose I've seen for the grey port in the manual is high ampereage ammeter readings.
 
Just what I was thinking. And isn't the knob turned to the 200 scale - ie that's 38 volts (though it isn't if the probe isn't plugged in properly). Time to have a look at the voltmeter manual maybe?

Nah, that's volts. If you turn it to 600VAC range you lose the tenths IIRC. But if you turn it to one of the k-ohmmeter settings your reading will be in kohms.
 
Should the volt meter negative probe be plugged into the Ohms port? Shouldn't it be the Common port instead?
Using seanth connections (with black probe into 10 amp jack- this is not per manual) with exact same meter, I measured AC house wiring and the 10 amp fuse blew instantly. The red probe is supposed to be in extreme right jack for all tests, except for 10 amp tests, while the black probe stays in middle. He needs to review meter manual!
 
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I was really hoping that I would measure it again with the darn tool set up properly and everything would be peachy but that isn't the case because it's still low.

statorvac-1.jpg


Oh and in my defence this is the first time that I have used my new multimeter but as you can guess I definately didn't read the instructions.

So now I'm in the market for a new stator and since the RR is OEM, I'm going to upgrade that as well.

Which options would you choose?
A. All new from electrosport... $231.00 shipped
B. Ricks Stator w/ Honda RR... $250ish
C. Rebuilt stator w/ Honda RR... $175-200
 
I was really hoping that I would measure it again with the darn tool set up properly and everything would be peachy but that isn't the case because it's still low.

statorvac-1.jpg


Oh and in my defence this is the first time that I have used my new multimeter but as you can guess I definately didn't read the instructions.

So now I'm in the market for a new stator and since the RR is OEM, I'm going to upgrade that as well.

Which options would you choose?
A. All new from electrosport... $231.00 shipped
B. Ricks Stator w/ Honda RR... $250ish
C. Rebuilt stator w/ Honda RR... $175-200
First, take meter into house and measure an ac outlet with that exact same setting. All those prices seem high , unless everything is BRAND new- of course, I wander on ebay and buy $10 stators and $5 honda R/R's.
 
Agree, prices too high.

I'd get a new Rick R/R and a used FET R/R. Check Matchless's R/R thread to find what models came with the better R/R's and then go to ebay and find the best price.
 
My stator was fried and here is a picture of what it looked like:

photo.jpg


It looks like the two sections in the top of the picture are the only two which aren't burned.
 
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