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What product for soaking Carb parts.

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
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Anonymous

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OK Gang. :?: :?:
I’ve got a simple question. I just got a 1978 GS 750 that needs some TLC. I need to rebuild the carbs. What carb cleaner would you recommend to soak the carb parts in?
I’ve even had someone recommend Pine Sol. (a household cleaner).

Thanks
Roman
 
When I did small engine repair we always used a spray carb cleaner, not a soak. We had a tank for soaking large parts (crank cases) but small parts can generally be sprayed off for much less cost and trouble.

Spraying will also give the added bonus of a little pressure, just watch you don't send parts flying. :wink:

As always keep all carb cleaners and stripping baths away from rubber gaskets and seals. :)
 
Berryman's makes a great carb cleaner - you can get it at most auto parts stores, comes in a gallon can with a dip basket for smaller parts - stuff works great and they claim it's bio-degradable.
 
I also have a 78 750 and I cleaned the carbs with a soak solution and let me tell you they were clogged up rock solid. I used some really caustic stuff (it was yellow and looked like antifreeze) I picked it up at PEP BOYS and it came in what looked like a paint can (sorry I can't remember the name) and it worked incrediblly. Dipped them for a couple of hours and they were as good as new (after 5 years of sitting around and never started) after blowing them out with a compressor. Good luck.....
 
Berryman's is the only way to fly. I paid about $13 for the gallon can with the dip bucket. The only downside is, the smell stayed on my hands for about a month.

It would probably help to clean up the carbs physically first, so as to avoid contaminating the Berryman's.
 
Carb Cleaner

Carb Cleaner

The bike that brought me here ('82 GS450TX) just started up yesterday after a good carb cleaning and some other miscelanious work...

I used Berrymans B-12 ChemTool (on the advise of others here). The can I used was a spray-can, with a WD-40 style red-straw. I don't know how bad my carbs were before I used it, but the bike had been sitting since 1999, the fuel valve was frozen (had to use pliers to turn it), and the gas in the tank was yellow & smelled like mineral spirits.

Now it runs fine (with a few 'misadventures' along the way)...
 
If youre really stretched you can use white vinegar, although its not recommended to leave parts soaking in it for a long time
 
Roman check the local parts store for a jug of Junk comes with a dipping bascket worked great on mine
 
With 78 model it should have the slide type carbs like my 79GS850 you can do a very good job cleaning them without removing the carbs from each other,makes the job easier. Just remove the floats, needle and seat and all of the jets. Leave the carb slides alone, don't remove them. Get 6-8 job size cans of carb spray, depending how dirty they are. The slide type carbs are not as tempermental as the later BS vacuum type carbs. Just make sure all of the jets and passages are clean. Check the air screw and the fuel screw to see where they are set before you take then apart
 
SqDancerLynn1 said:
With 78 model it should have the slide type carbs like my 79GS850 you can do a very good job cleaning them without removing the carbs from each other,makes the job easier. Just remove the floats, needle and seat and all of the jets. Leave the carb slides alone, don't remove them. Get 6-8 job size cans of carb spray, depending how dirty they are. The slide type carbs are not as tempermental as the later BS vacuum type carbs. Just make sure all of the jets and passages are clean. Check the air screw and the fuel screw to see where they are set before you take then apart
Click to expand...

Correct my carbs are the slide type. I will give it a try. I cleaned my carbs on the water buffalo as you suggested and it seemed to work fine, its just that these carbs are really messed up.
Any other suggestions or tips would be appreciated.

Thanks gang. :wink:

Roman
 
Water Buffalo

Water Buffalo

Didn't know there was anybody else on the GS list with a Buffalo! :D Bob
 
Yes my other Jewel :)

I have a 1975 GT750 It's been a great piece of my personal History. I've owned it since 1978. Put a lot of miles on it. I have about 2000km on a fresh motor. Last time I had it out it was running great. My winter project plans are to get it to look as stock as possible. I don’t have much work really, just some pin striping, paint and a seat required.

Roman.
 
Soak products (I think??)

Soak products (I think??)

I just got a 72 J model that is getting a lot of TLC. The guy handed me the gas tank after it sat for 12 years saying "Hey, what do you know, it's still got gas in it!" I bet you can see my face :cry: :cry: Anyways, I have used a dip called TYME carb cleaner. I don't know if it's any better or worse than the rest. Got any pics of your Buffalo on the web? Bob
 
12 years???
That’s when gas was inexpensive.
No I don't have any photos on the web, actually I don't have any photos of the bike. I'll have to get to work on that.

A 72 Water buffalo. What a great project bike. :) Do you know if the crank seals are OK? I've had to replace mine twice :x since I've owned it. It's a real pain.

Roman
 
Don't know about the crank seals yet. As soon as I get in gear and order a throttle cable and install the carbs I will. May have to repair a few wires here and there first. Have the tank all welded back together after blasting it. Pretty clean inside now. Bob
 
Theirs nothing like the gurgle of the water buffalo. :)
Let me know how it goes.

Roman
 
Roman,

I'm in the middle of the carb cleaning job on my 750, too. There's one passage I found to be particularly difficult to get open. It's the one near the front right corner of the float bowl. There is a tiny passage between the opening at the bottom of the float bowl and the cylinder at the edge of the float bowl. Use a tool made from a wire brush bristle, as shown in the carb cleaning series here at the Resources; work it in the 'edge cylinder'. I used the dip can stuff, too (I'm at work now, so I can't tell you the brand, but as others have described, it's a gallon can; I bought it at an Auto Zone). I also use a spray can of carb cleaner with the plastic tube attached. When you can stick the tube in the 'edge cylinder' and see spray shoot out the opening at the bottom of the bowl, you know it's open. Careful, if it's not yet open when you spray, you'll get a strong back spray; you don't want that stuff in your eyes! :( Gotta' run now; I'll be back in touch later with some more stuff I've learned so far (o-rings, if you don't have full carb kits). :D
 
Lynn

Thank you. I actually sprayed stuff in that hole and it did spray out where it was supposed to. Lucky I guess. I guess my carbs aren’t as bad as some. Information on O-rings would be really handy. Please let me know.
Also let me know how your rebuild worked.

Thanks again :)
Roman.
 
Roman,

I'm still in the middle of my cleaning/rebuild - too much to do on too many fronts, too little time. I haven't had a chance to work on the carbs for about 2 weeks now. Hopefully, this weekend I can squeeze some time in...

Anyway, as you've probably discovered by now, there are 5 different o-rings used in these carbs. Readily available o-rings are identified by a standardized sizing/numbering system that starts at -001 and goes up to ???. You can find the sizing chart, dimensions, and more than you really want to know about o-rings at www.allorings.com. Most commonly available material for o-rings is buna-n (also known as nitrile). This material is fine for the carb application, fully compatible with gasoline. Viton is OK, too, but viton o-rings seem to cost about 3 times the cost of nitrile rings.

Although I haven't put any carbs back together yet, I've been measuring, looking for o-rings, sizing the 5 applications in our carbs. This is what I've determined so far:

"Choke assembly" - Size -011 seems to fit well.

Jet assembly - Size -009 seems to fit well.

Float bowl drain plug - Size -008 seems to fit well.

Pilot screw (the larger one)- Initially a size -006 seemed to fit OK; after getting some -005's, I find they are closer to the correct size, but neither is an exact match for the original (-005 is closer).

Air screw (the smaller one)- Size -005 looks like it will work here, too, but it also is not an exact match for the original, which is different than the pilot screw application, where a size -005 also seems to fit OK.

My terminology may be screwed up a bit; I don't have my Clymer in front of me now; I'm working from some scrawled notes and memory (becoming a higher risk situation as time goes by). If you have trouble sorting things out, let me know and I'll try to clarify it.

Where to get the o-rings? You may have some luck at a well-stocked hardware store. At the website listed above, you'll find a nice kit for only $10.00; if you're a real do-it-yourselfer, this is definitely the way to go. Problem is, it starts at size -006 and goes up from there. I have a friend involved in auto racing who has this kit in his shop, so that's where I was able to get the larger ones. Finding the -005s was tougher, though. Most sellers (websites, industrial supply houses, etc.) sell in lot sizes of 100, 300, etc.
I eventually found a local supply house from whom I was able to buy a pack of 100 -005s at a reasonable price. I gave some to my friend in exchange for the ones I took from his kit; I'll gladly send you (or anyone else, until I run out) the 8 I think you'll need, plus a spare or 2 if you'd like; just send me $1.00; that'll easily cover the o-rings and postage. Email me if you're interested, and I'll give you my address.

Let me know how your rebuild goes; at the rate I'm going, you'll probably be done before I am. :D :? :cry: :D
 
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