What Reg Rec To buy?

[Ccitis]

Hey All,

1983 GS1100E. Was out for a ride, started getting odd electrical symptoms... turn signals not working... then the bike died. Charged the battery up, took a good charge at 13.4V showing. Ran the bike, did the test from the positive starter relay, and ground. Ran it up. Was getting under 12 volts. I assume the STOCK reg rec gave up the ghost, common on these bikes. Any other tests I should do? If not, I am assuming I will buy a Ricks Reg Rec, any recommendations on the model? Would like plug and play.... Cheers!

 

[Brendan W]

Don't assume anything. Road to perdition that one.
Check the wiring and plugs between stator and R/R
Check the stator output. Ideally 80 Volts a/c at 5000 rpm open cct.
Check stator legs for shorts to ground
Check the R/R for a short in one of the legs.
Loads of posts of hard won experience here about how to do it.
Do not get into parts roulette.
To measure is to know...... as a member here is always telling anyone smart enough to listen.

 

[salty_monk]

Ricks Stator would be ok.. not their RR though. Get an SH775. There may be a Kawasaki model stator that fits that bike that's cheaper than the Suzi model too I think...

 

[Ccitis]

Don't assume anything. Road to perdition that one.
Check the wiring and plugs between stator and R/R
Check the stator output. Ideally 80 Volts a/c at 5000 rpm open cct.
Check stator legs for shorts to ground
Check the R/R for a short in one of the legs.
Loads of posts of hard won experience here about how to do it.
Do not get into parts roulette.
To measure is to know...... as a member here is always telling anyone smart enough to listen.

Good advice. I have played parts roulette on bikes too many times. I will have to figure out how to check all these items.

 

[Nessism]

SH775 for sure. And rewire the system.

https://flic.kr/p/R65bxF

 

[Ccitis]

My weakest skillset by far working on bikes is electrical. I am really interested in plug and play if possible. Rewiring the existing makes me nervous... I would probably get myself into trouble.

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

My weakest skillset by far working on bikes is electrical. I am really interested in plug and play if possible. Rewiring the existing makes me nervous... I would probably get myself into trouble.

I was where you are about 6 years ago when I finally got fed up with my bike and joined the forum. If you want to own and enjoy a 40+ year old motorcycle, you’ll have to get over it and learn some new skills. I’ve documented all my charging system fixes and advice received in this one thread. There are many like it in the archives. This should help you, if you’re ready to overcome your fears.
https://www.thegsresources.com/_for...stem-sorted=&highlight=Charging+System+sorted

 

[Ccitis]

I was where you are about 6 years ago when I finally got fed up with my bike and joined the forum. If you want to own and enjoy a 40+ year old motorcycle, you’ll have to get over it and learn some new skills. I’ve documented all my charging system fixes and advice received in this one thread. There are many like it in the archives. This should help you, if you’re ready to overcome your fears.
https://www.thegsresources.com/_for...stem-sorted=&highlight=Charging+System+sorted

Yeah, I have owned a whole bunch of old bikes, and rebuilt them... but I usually just go new with the wiring... not confident splicing into things and figuring out how to install different electrical parts. I will check that out, thanks! I am gathering there is not really a plug and play regulator rectifier then.

 

[Nessism]

Plug and play R/R is BAD! Don't do that. The GS charging system sends one leg of power from the stator, all the way up to the hand control switch, then back down. This started back when headlamps had a switch. The idea being, disconnect one leg when the headlamp is off, so you don't over power the system. Problem is, headlamps are on all the time now, and the extra wiring in the harness, necessary for this crazy loop, will overheat as the wiring builds resistance with age. Resistance creates heat, and you can melt down the harness.

It's extremely easy to wire your system like I've shown in the diagram. If you can't do this, sell the bike. Ha ha. Seriously, though, sell the bike. Because if you can't fix that, you won't be able to maintain the bike either...

Oh, and a SH775 will save your stator from overheat failure also. They are far better than any shunt type stator you can install.

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Honestly, cutting, stripping wires and crimping on new ends is easy. Granted, my dad made terminals for a living and I was taught at an early age how to do it. Buy yourself a good wire cutter/stripper (Klein or better). You can get by with hardware store male female spade terminals. Watch some YouTube videos. If you want to get fancy like I did, get authentic insulated bullet connectors from https://www.vintageconnections.com/. Their crimp tool is great too. This tool takes little practice to get just right. but I think it was worth the price. https://www.vintageconnections.com/products/ratcheting-crimping-tool

Ed’s response was kind but direct. You will need to get your hands dirty and learn to do it. Paying someone else to do it, even if money is no object, and if some shop is willing (most aren’t), is a crap shoot.

 

[Rob S.]

Paying someone else to do it, even if money is no object, and if some shop is willing (most aren’t), is a crap shoot.

You got that right. You'd think a Kawasaki-Honda-Suzuki dealership would be able to replace fork seals. You'd be wrong. Ten years ago, the bike was older than the mechanics.
If you want someone else to work on your bike, find a racer/builder. One who's got examples of his skill on display at his shop. I got lucky. Eventually. :kiwi-fruit:

 

[Ccitis]

You guys are a funny bunch, the XS11 forum is much more relaxed (as is the bike). Funny. I have a lot of experience working on old bikes folks (Resurrected a CL450 Barn find, CX650, Non Running XS1100 back to life, to name a couple of them), just not alot of experience modifying electrical systems with parts not originally made for the bike. Looking into the SH775... this is not something that is even available to buy new anymore...at least that I can find (source?).. that's not a feasible option. So, this is why I originally was wondering about a like for like replacement. As I follow my Haynes manual, I do the tests for the charging system and the manual says if I get the numbers I did, the RR is needing a replacement. That is why I landed here. I am confused as to why replacing with a new RR would melt wires, when that never happened with the stock one that is on there now?

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Genuine SH775 show up on eBay. Watch out for fakes. If you’re uncertain about any given eBay listing, link it here and we’ll tell you. But basically, you’re looking for the white lettering on the top fin.

It’s a popular mod because it has proven to be nearly bullet-proof, along with cleaning up all grounds and wiring all 3 stator legs directly to the RR, eliminating the headlamp loop.

Looking for a plug and play replacement so you won’t have to cut/recrimp wires would be nice. But having clean fresh ends on all these connections would be nicer. Having a series RR rather than a shunt type is even nicer.

 

[Ccitis]

Further development... I started digging in more, the connector from the stator was melted and fused to the RR connector, and one of the 3 stator wires was fully severed. Nice. Testing resistance between the wires on the stator is showing me 0 Ohms... so I assume the stator is toast. Will most likely replace Stator and RR.

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

... so I assume the stator is toast. Will most likely replace Stator and RR.

That is typically the case, and best practice to replace stator and RR.

 

[Nessism]

To find a SH775, search ebay for "4012941" or "710001103", toggle "used", then sort by cheapest price. Make sure the photos show "SH775" printed on the top fin. Also, look at photos of the plastic connector closely, it's not unusual for the connector to be broken.

Triumph PN T2500676 is for a harness, that's easy to adapt to your bike.

For a stator, I like Ricks, but they are expensive. You can find much cheaper. I've never heard of any companies making bad stators.

 

[Ccitis]

To find a SH775, search ebay for "4012941" or "710001103", toggle "used", then sort by cheapest price. Make sure the photos show "SH775" printed on the top fin. Also, look at photos of the plastic connector closely, it's not unusual for the connector to be broken.

Triumph PN T2500676 is for a harness, that's easy to adapt to your bike.

For a stator, I like Ricks, but they are expensive. You can find much cheaper. I've never heard of any companies making bad stators.

This is helpful, thank you!

 

[Brendan W]

Further development... I started digging in more, the connector from the stator was melted and fused to the RR connector, and one of the 3 stator wires was fully severed. Nice. Testing resistance between the wires on the stator is showing me 0 Ohms... so I assume the stator is toast. Will most likely replace Stator and RR.

Open the generator cover and check the wiring inside.
I thought my stator was toast and got another.
When I opened up I found some genius had used bullet connectors inside and the wires had fused together.
The stator was fine.
A damaged stator will generally have signs of overheating, discoloured insulation on one or more phases.

 

[Ccitis]

SH775 for sure. And rewire the system.

https://flic.kr/p/R65bxF

Question about this.... WHat do you do with the other wires... I have 3 yellows... no problem.. there is also a black white,red and an orange that went into another molex connector that leads to the harness. I get the red connection, what about the other two?

 

[Brendan W]

As built, three wires come from the stator. Two go directly to the r/r. the third takes a run up to the headlight and back to the r/r.
Typically it heads off as a Green/ White and comes back as a Red/ White.
You want to cut out this loop entirely and take the three generator wires directly to the r/r.
It doesn't matter which of the three generator wires go into the three r/r input pins.
Page 474 here is for the SD model but I can't imagine the E being any different.
https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac/~cliff/storage/gs/80-83_GS1100T-LT-EX-1000SZ-EZ-SD-ED-ESD.pdf