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What repair series would you like to see?

Hey, I'd be glad to pitch in.

I'm also planning to disassemble my bike this winter, and I would love to go in on a project detailing something which is not now on this site.

DIBS ON THE BRAKE FLUID CHANGE!!!!

wait....I can also take pics of "How to fuel up your brand new old GS!!"
 
Can someone quickly explain why people use the term "shim" with valve adjustments on our bikes? I thought we had adjustable tappets thus eliminating the need for buying shims. Is it just the term used to describe the process of setting the clearances? Do most bikes require purchasing the correct size shim? I just want to make sure all I will need is the head gasket for parts. If I need to check clearances, then buy shims it means my bike will be down for a few days. I'd need to plan ahead for that.
 
To adjust the tappet clearances, you install the correct thickness shim.
I'm not sure, your model may have the screw adjusters (no shims needed.) If you have shims, you need a tool to remove them. You won't know what shims you need until you check things. You may be able to swap shims around. Be sure to get Suzuki shims which are 29.5mm in diameter. You may also need the cam end gaskets or "half moons" that are on some models. Check your clearances on a stone cold motor. Letting it sit overnight is best. Put a very thin coat of bearing grease on the new cover gasket and the gasket will be easy to remove in the future.
 
My manual for my 83 GS1100ED shows threaded nut adjusters on the tappets and speaks of a special tool that makes it easier to adjust, although a small spanner will also suffice. Just to be clear (before I tackle this project), I shouldn't need the shims, correct?
 
How you adjust your valves depends on the year and model of the bike. My late 70's GS 750's all use the bucket and shim method. Your bike probably uses the adjusting screw method as shown in your manual. A few years ago I did the valves on my sons 1989 Katana 600 and purchased the Suzuki special tool #09917-14910 : Valve adjuster driver. If it's the same special tool you require your welcome to borrow it. It made the job a lot easier for us.
 
I wrote an article on how to adjust the valves on the 16 valve 1100 (should work for the 750 and 1150 also) but never sent it in. I also have pictures.

Hap
 
Since I'm going to be changing the transmission in my 1100 soon I will also do one on that.

I've done the 630/530 conversion and could do that also.

Hap
 
I believe that all 8 valve GSs (and their 4 valve 2 cylinder little brothers) use shims to adjust valve clearances, while the 16 valve variations use screw and locknut valve adjustments. Round caps on the ends of your valve cover? Shims. Rectangular caps? Screw and locknuts. I think. Probably. Maybe.

Someone around here probably has a complete list.

Fortunately, we don't have "shim under bucket" valve adjustment like KZ Kaws, where the camshaft has to come out to make adjustments. (Added PITA, let me tell you...) In our bikes, you just push the tappet down with a special lever tool, pop the shim out with a small screwdriver, and retrieve it with tweezers or small pliers. Pretty quick and easy, once you've done it a few times.

So anyway, there are definitely two different procedures for adjusting valves on GSs.

My bike, a GS850G, uses shims. I'll write up this procedure in detail this weekend, including several tips and tricks and the art of selecting proper replacement shims. I might not get any pictures, since I just checked my valves last month.

However, we will still need a write-up and pictures from someone familiar with the procedure for adjusting screw-and-locknut valves on a GS. I've done this type of adjustment on many other bikes and cars, but never on a GS, so I'll leave that to someone else who can give us some of those very specific tips and tricks that make the job a lot easier.
 
I'm putting a new stator cover on this weekend does anyone want me to take pictures?
 
I've got my new cyl head gasket and am going to do this job tomorrow night. I'll take pictures galore, but I'd like to see if anyone else will do the write up because I will be doing this for the first time!

Ready with the tourqe wrench...
 
I'd like to see a series on a cylinder head rebuild. I would like to see how much of the cylinder head rebuild a "do-it yourselfer" at home can do. This winter I am going to go through the top end of my trusty GS1100GL.
 
Shims

Shims

I need this done on my 82 GS1100GK. trying to decide if I want tackle it or just let the shop handle it. Time is precious for me as my job is very demanding and I have a freshman highschool student who is very involved in band and accelerated academics. The Suzuki shop tells me about $200 including the gasket. I just don't want to get into a mess and then have to get someone else to clean it up. I can't make heads or tails of some of the pics in the Clymer manual. :?
 
OK, here's what I'm going to document this weekend starring my 1983 GS850G in the role of the cooperative patient.

- Rebuild cam chain tensioner (disassemble, new seals and spring)
- New seals on tach drive (plus replacing worn driven gear)
- New o-rings in intake boots (just because...)

I'll most likely also do the following, since I already will have much of the disassembly done:
- Shim valve adjustment
- Sync carbs with mercury stick gauges

Tools needed, part numbers, tips, tricks, links and gory details will abound. Once I get it all onto my web site (probably Sunday night), I'll post a link here and ask everyone who knows what they're talking about to critique the "beta". All pages will have print optimized versions, in case you'd rather not drag your computer into the garage.

I'll also need some guidance and clarifications from the peanut gallery as to which parts of the procedure shown apply to other models and which parts are different. Questions and clarifications from newbies will also be welcome. After all the arguing simmers down, I'll make any needed changes and we'll unleash it on the world. The GS world, anyway.

I will probably not document the simple beginning stages, like removing the tank and carbs, unless there is some great outcry for this knowledge. Let me know.

Once the first procedures are done, I can easily use them as a template for other procedures from other people. If you'd like to document something, please PM me or email gs@bwringer.com and I'll send you instructions for preparing your text and images and sending them to me.

PLEASE do not stick a bunch of images and text into a Word document or a PDF and PLEASE do not email me any attachments -- there are much more efficient ways of doing things.

Thanks!
 
Giblet, they might be able to replace just the head gasket for the $200, but there's no way that includes all of the stuff you should do when you have the head off the bike. And if the head is warped or the sealing surface is uneven or pitted, the new gasket will leak even worse.

Here's a minimal list of what should be done and replaced whenever the head comes off. This doesn't even include replacing and lapping in the valves or replacing the cam chain:

Gaskets: breather cover, valve cover, exhaust gaskets, head gasket & o-rings, valve stem seals, cylinder base gasket & o-rings, cam tunnel o-ring

Remove and inspect all valve train components (camshafts, valves, retainers, etc.)

Measure cam chain for stretch.

Clean and lightly resurface sealing surfaces of head & block

Inspect and measure head for warping

Install new piston rings (sometimes you can get away without doing this...) and hone block (assuming block dimensions are acceptable and boring and oversize pistons are not needed)

Inspect intake tubes or manifolds, replace o-rings if required

Set timing and adjust valves during assembly

Sync carbs
 
Shims

Shims

Oooops! :roll: Don't know where my "head" was. I need the shims adjusted, no problem on the heads. I just have some valve train noise that is irritating me. AFter I saw bw's reply I realized I left out a very important item. Very sorry. Eagerly awaiting enlightenment.
 
Ooohhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!! 8O 8O

NOW it makes sense!

Is $200 normally what a GS valve adjustment costs at a shop? I guess it makes some sense - 1.5 to 2 hours labor (that's about what it takes me including the carb sync, bathroom breaks, and retuning the radio) plus the valve cover gasket.

As they say, time is money!

BTW, I'm building the site now for the repair series -- parts of it should be ready for critiques later today.
 
Really would like to take a look

Really would like to take a look

Well, if its that simple I'll give it a shot. I spent the day putting brakes on my wife's 97 Stratus (piddled around a lot too) so I've probably earned some "play" time. I'd really like to see your web site and will look at the Clymer again to see what it takes. You can email me when you are ready to have someone take a look. I have a couple of questions in mind but want to see if the manual answers them first.

Thanks
 
It's still in the very early stages construction, but feel free to take a look:

http://bwringer.com/gs/

There are no pictures yet (we're taking pics tomorrow) and the only write-up I've completed is the intake o-rings article. But you can get an idea of how things will work.

I still need to experiment a bit with a "printable" style sheet and a few other technical odds and ends, but most of it should be complete tomorrow evening.
 
Wrong chapter

Wrong chapter

Brian, I took a look. I like the format. I was looking in the wrong place in my manual. Finally realized it is in Ch 3 (Maintainance). I replaced the gaskets less than 6 months ago so hopefully I can reuse them. I have a spare cam cover gasket so I'm covered there. I like color photos because I can distinguish the parts better. Probably do mine next weekend.
 
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