• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

What Size Shims?

  • Thread starter Thread starter SB3
  • Start date Start date
S

SB3

Guest
I have a 78 Suzuki Gs550. I posted last night about taking the head apart and cleaning the valve heads and valves of carbon build up. I also replaced the valve seals. Anyways I can not get the lowest gauge on my feeler tool to go through any of the clearances (.0015"). What I collected from my post last night was that I just simply need smaller shims because my carbon is gone and my valves seal properly. Now my question is... what size shims should I order? Should I go down .05? or a whole .10 from my current sizes? My sizes are..


EX CAM 1=2.65 2=2.65 3=2.70 4=2.65

IN CAM 1= 2.75 2=2.80 3=2.75 4=2.75
 
I'd swap the (EX) 2.65's in place of the (IN) 2.75's, and a (EX) 2.70 for the (IN) 2.80. Then measure the IN valves again. Obviously, you won't be able to measure the EX valves again because they will be tighter than ever.

Assuming you have good clearance on the IN valves, then plan to move the EX valves down two sizes. You may need to move a couple of the positions 3 sizes but it shouldn't take more than that.

EDIT: and just to be clear, never rotate the engine with a shim removed. The cams will be damaged.
 
Last edited:
EDIT: and just to be clear, never rotate the engine with a shim removed. The cams will be damaged.

IIRC, you can drop a coin in there (a quarter is a very loose fit, or IIRC a Sacajawea dollar works) if you're swapping shims and need to rotate the engine without damaging the cams. OBVIOUSLY don't attempt to run it with spare change installed...

And yeah, the spreadsheet helps if you're confuzzled.
 
IIRC, you can drop a coin in there (a quarter is a very loose fit, or IIRC a Sacajawea dollar works) if you're swapping shims and need to rotate the engine without damaging the cams. OBVIOUSLY don't attempt to run it with spare change installed...

.
For readers in the UK, a 2pence coin is a perfect fit.
I have a pill jar full of them for exactly this purpose.
 
I have a 78 Suzuki Gs550. I posted last night about taking the head apart and cleaning the valve heads and valves of carbon build up. I also replaced the valve seals. Anyways I can not get the lowest gauge on my feeler tool to go through any of the clearances (.0015"). What I collected from my post last night was that I just simply need smaller shims because my carbon is gone and my valves seal properly. Now my question is... what size shims should I order? Should I go down .05? or a whole .10 from my current sizes? My sizes are..


EX CAM 1=2.65 2=2.65 3=2.70 4=2.65

IN CAM 1= 2.75 2=2.80 3=2.75 4=2.75

Question to the hive mind ..
Are the 550 shims the same diameter as the 850s ?

IF the answer is YES -

I have a 2.60 , a 2.50 and a couple of 2.55 I could snail mail to you --

All mine are now at smaller sizes so a thicker shim is 'extra'
 
Question to the hive mind ..
Are the 550 shims the same diameter as the 850s ?

IF the answer is YES -

I have a 2.60 , a 2.50 and a couple of 2.55 I could snail mail to you --

All mine are now at smaller sizes so a thicker shim is 'extra'

I believe the 550's are also 29.5 shims?
 
I'm facing similar challenges. I have reduced the shims on 6 of 8 valves. My number 4 intake valve has me concerned. The factory installed a 2.7 shim on this 78 GS 750 but now, 55000 miles later, I'm down to a 2.4! I recently acquired this bike so this is the first time I've "run the overhead". If valve seat wear is the culprit for reducing shim thickness at what point does this indicate the need for head removal and valve work? It seems like going from 2.7 to 2.4 is a very wide swing. Steve, any ideas? You're spreadsheet is great!! Thanks for sharing this tool.
 
I just bought 1 of the thinnest shims , and measured from there, as I had the same problem.
 
Back
Top