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What the deal with valve shims?!

  • Thread starter Thread starter Adler
  • Start date Start date
A

Adler

Guest
I don't understand why adjusting the valves is necessary, what could cause the spacing to change? Why can't it be set and left forever?
 
Adler said:
I don't understand why adjusting the valves is necessary, what could cause the spacing to change? Why can't it be set and left forever?
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Because the valves and seats take a pounding along with cam surfaces and rockers on the bikes that have them. If they don't get adjusted at regular intervals you'll end up burning exhaust valves and maybe a piston, or two, or three, or four.
 
Billy Ricks said:
Because the valves and seats take a pounding along with cam surfaces and rockers on the bikes that have them. If they don't get adjusted at regular intervals you'll end up burning exhaust valves and maybe a piston, or two, or three, or four.
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Aren't there about a million precision parts in our bikes that take a pounding? Whats so special about the valves?
 
Adler said:
Aren't there about a million precision parts in our bikes that take a pounding? Whats so special about the valves?
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They get tighter over time and there is probably not another part that takes as big a beating as the valve train. If you don't want to deal with valve adjustments buy a bike with hydraulic valves. It's that or pay for a topend job by ignoring them.
 
Billy Ricks said:
They get tighter over time and there is probably not another part that takes as big a beating as the valve train. If you don't want to deal with valve adjustments buy a bike with hydraulic valves. It's that or pay for a topend job by ignoring them.
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or buy a stroker!
 
Billy Ricks said:
If you don't want to deal with valve adjustments buy a bike with hydraulic valves. It's that or pay for a topend job by ignoring them.
Click to expand...

No no... its nothing like that, I'll do it. I'm just curious about it.
 
Adler said:
No no... its nothing like that, I'll do it. I'm just curious about it.
Click to expand...

If you get a 16 valve model, you don't have to deal with shims...just lock nuts and adjusting screws...
 
The only reason to hesitate on doing the check is that I dont happen to have a big stock of shims handy, so I would have to open it up, then order shims, then wait.... and wait... and wait... then install them! (also I need to go find some of those measuring feelers).
 
The shim and bucket GS valve train is supremely durable. One of the best characteristics of the engines in my opinion. Unfortunately, some owners can't be bothered with doing maintenance, particularly valve adjustments, so my supposition is that lots of GS's die a horrible death with burnt valves. Darn shame really since a properly cared for GS will run 100,000+ miles, but without valve adjustments the engine will die in just a fraction of that.
 
Adler said:
The only reason to hesitate on doing the check is that I dont happen to have a big stock of shims handy, so I would have to open it up, then order shims, then wait.... and wait... and wait... then install them! (also I need to go find some of those measuring feelers).
Click to expand...
If you are unsure of the maintenance history this should be on your short list of things to do. You may not find any tight valves or just two or three. You may even be able to swap some shims around.
 
Billy Ricks said:
If you are unsure of the maintenance history this should be on your short list of things to do. You may not find any tight valves or just two or three. You may even be able to swap some shims around.
Click to expand...

The PO mentioned that the head gasket had recently been replaced, Im hoping that means the valves were adjusted also, but I'm waiting on his reply to my recent email to see about whether this needs to be done or not... might just do it anyways.

Larry D said:
Or..you could take advantage of the Valve Shim Swap Club.:)

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=122394
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Holey moley that looks awesome!
 
Adler said:
The PO mentioned that the head gasket had recently been replaced, Im hoping that means the valves were adjusted also, but I'm waiting on his reply to my recent email to see about whether this needs to be done or not... might just do it anyways.
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Never trust a PO unless you know them personally, and even then...always best to be sure.

I would at least check them...might be OK..if not, you really don't want to ride it anyway.
Checking them doesn't take much time at all.
 
rapidray said:
All the more reason to get a 16 valve bike with SCREW adjust rockers! Ray.
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Eh, it only takes about 10 years of rabid riding to accumulate enough shims to deal with most possible shim situations... :p
 
Today, 03:08 PM bwringer Eh, it only takes about 10 years of rabid riding to accumulate enough shims to deal with most possible shim situations... :p
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Or you could move to Indiana, between Indy (BWringer) and NW Indiana (Me) we probably have 100 various shims. :dancing:

Seriously though I have seen OEM shim kits mis-listed on e-bay go for $ 35.00 and once you know what sizes you have in each bucket and current clearance size you can pretty much guess what you will need the next time you adjust them. They also tend to change less as your mileage goes up on the motor.
 
Hi,

I like my little shim collection. Lynn has a huge collection. All the "2-valvers" local to me trade shims like we used to trade baseball cards when we were kids. It's fun. It's part of the "community" feeling. :)


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
And get yourself a good set of calipers to measure the thicknessess of the shims. They are supposed to be marked on the back side what thickness they are in millimeters. But sometimes that gets worn off. Sometimes they've been worn down so that the marked thickness is no longer correct. Or, they may have been mismarked.

The pounding is most severe where the edge of the valves hits the seat of the head. After time, either the valve or the valve seat wears causing the distance between there and where the rocker contacts the shim to change. This causes the valve to not seat all the way over time. Not only will this burn the valve, but it will also decrease compression, lowering your power ouput. So, don't ovelook the needed periodical check/adjustment if you want your engine to last and last and last. It's really not hard to do if you follow the tutorial.
 
Ok

Ok

Nessism said:
The shim and bucket GS valve train is supremely durable. One of the best characteristics of the engines in my opinion. Unfortunately, some owners can't be bothered with doing maintenance, particularly valve adjustments, so my supposition is that lots of GS's die a horrible death with burnt valves. Darn shame really since a properly cared for GS will run 100,000+ miles, but without valve adjustments the engine will die in just a fraction of that.
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Now I feel guilty, I need to check the valves on my gs500f. Its been done twice in 15,000 miles.
 
Adler said:
The PO mentioned that the head gasket had recently been replaced, Im hoping that means the valves were adjusted also, but I'm waiting on his reply to my recent email to see about whether this needs to be done or not... might just do it anyways.

PO's frequently confuse or misrepresent valve cover gaskets for head gaskets.:eek:
Click to expand...
 
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