What to look for when buying a rim?

[Guest]

I might have ruined my rim by breaking the studs that held the brake pad. I broke three of them. I am going to have a friend try to save me by welding nuts onto them. But if that doesn't work I need a new rim for the rear wheel.

What do I look for? I know this might cost an arm and a leg because of shipping so I don't want to try twice.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Suzuki-Gs1...S1000G&hash=item288e604233:g:dgoAAOSwoKFa64zx <- like this one $30 + $130 shipping. Only worry is that the brake disc is on because the bolts is impossible to remove...

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

I might have ruined my rim by breaking the studs that held the brake pad.....

and by “brake pad”, do you mean ROTOR/brake disc?

 

[Guest]

and by “brake pad”, do you mean ROTOR/brake disc?

I do. This language is too hard.

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Noreg, except for the few times that you’ve gotten motorcycle part nomenclature slightly wrong, I wouldn’t know that English wasn’t your first language. Keep up the good work. Sorry I don’t have an answer for you on the wheel. Just wanted to make that clarification.

 

[bwringer]

Your English is about 100X better than anyone else's Norwegian, and better than many of the native English speakers around here!

And for real confusion, mix the mechanical terms used by the Americans, Aussies, Brits, Irish, etc. in the assorted dialects of English.


Back in the Olden Days of this forum, there was a lovable, frugal curmudgeon named "Grandpa" who kept a random assortment of shaftie wheels in stock, both 16" and 17" all shod with random new tires he found on fleaBay cheap. When one wore out, he slapped on the next wheel and tire in the lineup, and kept an eye out on eBay for he next super-cheap tire.

According to Grandpa, he could detect little or no difference between a 16" or 17" wheel, and the various tire brands made very little difference. There's certainly more tire selection available in 16" wheels. He claimed that the only adaptation required was on some wheels, he had to space the brake rotor out a little bit using washers.

In your case, your bike has a 17" rear wheel. You could probably fit any wheel from any 1980-84 shaftie; GS850G/GL, GS1000G/GL, or GS1100G/GL/GK with little or no adaptation.

Personally, I'd look for a wheel from a '82+ GS850G or GS1100G. You'd keep the original 17" size (this does make a little difference in ground clearance) and they would be tubeless wheels.

I'm not sure whether the rear from a 1979 GS850G would work. The way the brake rotor mounts looks very different on these, but I don't know whether that makes any actual difference in the spacing.

 

[Grimly]

I might have ruined my rim by breaking the studs that held the brake pad. I broke three of them. I am going to have a friend try to save me by welding nuts onto them. But if that doesn't work I need a new rim for the rear wheel.

What do I look for? I know this might cost an arm and a leg because of shipping so I don't want to try twice.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Suzuki-Gs1...S1000G&hash=item288e604233:g:dgoAAOSwoKFa64zx <- like this one $30 + $130 shipping. Only worry is that the brake disc is on because the bolts is impossible to remove...

Be aware, that one there is a 16" wheel, your's will be a 17".
The 16" will fit, sure, but it's not what you've got.

 

[Guest]

Ah, I want to use my tyre still, it is brand new (got it preemtively for next season).

https://www.ebay.com/itm/SUZUKI-GS8...-/273982372257?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292

This one? Was reasonably priced. And reasonable shipping. Would consider it even as a spare rim, so tyre changes would be smoother.

What should the rim markings be?

 

[Guest]

I bought that last one, I hope it is the right size. Ebay says it should be here by february 2. That should be plenty of time before the season starts.

 

[Steve]

If you, in fact, have a 1981 GS1000G, it would have come with a 17" rear wheel. The one in that last link was a 16" wheel. It will certainly mount up, but you might have to adjust some spacer thicknesses with the brake caliper.

I have had to make that adjustment a couple of times, but I don't remember which bike it was at the time. Many years ago, I changed the wheels on my '80 850 to those from an '82 1100. Both were 17", but I <might> have had to use a couple of washers instead of the stock spacer. Several years later, I changed the rear wheel to a 16" wheel so I could install a tire that promised longer life for a trip that I was planning. I don't remember if I had to change any spacers. At that same time, I changed my son's '80 1000 from a 17" to a 16", as well. I don't remember if I had to change spacers on his bike or mine. :-k

Once you get the spacers set correctly, you will find that the engine will run just a little faster while going down the road. The difference is only about 300 rpm at 70 mph, so it's not bad. It would probably require a stopwatch to detect and improvement in acceleration, and there is no decrease in fuel mileage.

.

 

[Redman]

Noreg,

I see you already bought one.

What I was going to say was: WHen looking for a used rear wheel for a G; also concider if it does or doesn't have the hub (called joint assembly on microfische). THe hub is worth more than the wheel, if hub in good condition. (but of course cant determine hub condition by seeing picture of it in the wheel).

If you are getting the ebay wheel in post #7 (from Wisconsin?!!), I see that one does have the hub. I see the listing does not mention the hub, but is shown in the pics (last pic on right). Might be a good idea to mention to the seller that you are expecting the wheel to have the hub as pictured.

I was looking for a G rear wheel, a few years ago, but I was looking mostly for a spare hub, so I didnt care if 16 or 17" wheel or much if was corroded or shiny). And I wasnt in any hurry, so could wait till found a wheel with a hub for a good price and good shipping cost. Did find a couple, actually.

SO you should decide which hub to use, and which keep as a spare.
(Talking about the hub is an entire subject in its self.)

Oh, and I found the extra wheel(s) were worth some bucks at a metal scrap recycler, since the wheel is a good amount of aluminum.

 

[Guest]

Noreg,

I see you already bought one.

What I was going to say was: WHen looking for a used rear wheel for a G; also concider if it does or doesn't have the hub (called joint assembly on microfische). THe hub is worth more than the wheel, if hub in good condition. (but of course cant determine hub condition by seeing picture of it in the wheel).

If you are getting the ebay wheel in post #7 (from Wisconsin?!!), I see that one does have the hub. I see the listing does not mention the hub, but is shown in the pics (last pic on right). Might be a good idea to mention to the seller that you are expecting the wheel to have the hub as pictured.

I was looking for a G rear wheel, a few years ago, but I was looking mostly for a spare hub, so I didnt care if 16 or 17" wheel or much if was corroded or shiny). And I wasnt in any hurry, so could wait till found a wheel with a hub for a good price and good shipping cost. Did find a couple, actually.

SO you should decide which hub to use, and which keep as a spare.
(Talking about the hub is an entire subject in its self.)

Oh, and I found the extra wheel(s) were worth some bucks at a metal scrap recycler, since the wheel is a good amount of aluminum.

I would absolutely need the hub, moving the hubs about would be a pain. Having two wheels (assuming I can weld the studs out, by "I" I mean my friend) would allow me faster turnaround for changing tyres, so less time waiting and being able to have a tyre lined up for after a trip.

It seems ebay keeps trying to trick me into buying the wrong parts. Its search seems more designed to steer what I buy than to let me have what I want. And strangely a lot of sellers wont ship a wheel to Norway (I found a nice one in Australia...).

Is the wheels aluminium? I could have sworn I read they were magnesium. Aluminium is way easier to weld I believe (less inclined to incinerate your garage).

 

[Redman]

. . . . . . .

Is the wheels aluminium? I could have sworn I read they were magnesium. Aluminium is way easier to weld I believe . . . ..

I really dont know..... ..... ....

Good that you know about the hub.
Do inspect it (can talk more about that if needed).

 

[Guest]

I really dont know..... ..... ....

Good that you know about the hub.
Do inspect it (can talk more about that if needed).

I managed to cancel my order for the 16" wheel. So now I am back searching for a 17" one with a good hub.

I found one for $55, but they couldn't calculate shipping until the 4th of january...

So now I need to find a good option with the hub.

 

[Guest]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rim-Rear-W...736723?hash=item3fed64a913:g:YXoAAOSwX99d967c <- This one?

I can't read the markings, it doesn't specify what year, and valve stem is missing (I am assuming my tyre shop can give me a new one, and if they are kind, a L one).

But its closer and hub looks good, and no rust (I guess they don't salt the roads in france)...

 

[Redman]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rim-Rear-W...736723?hash=item3fed64a913:g:YXoAAOSwX99d967c <- This one?

I can't read the markings, it doesn't specify what year, and valve stem is missing (I am assuming my tyre shop can give me a new one, and if they are kind, a L one).

But its closer and hub looks good, and no rust (I guess they don't salt the roads in france)...

On same continent would be closer that across an ocean. (Interesting that you have to deal with that.)

Can not really see what need to see about the hub in a picture of it in the wheel.

Unless you are really familiar with the wear pattern of a hub, you really can't see what need to see with the hub in the wheel even if the wheel is right in front of you.
To really see the wear pattern need to remove the hub from the wheel.
If you have some familiarity with the wear pattern, maybe can get a light shining into there and feel by probing with a stiff wire or something.

 

[Guest]

On same continent would be closer that across an ocean. (Interesting that you have to deal with that.)

Can not really see what need to see about the hub in a picture of it in the wheel.

Unless you are really familiar with the wear pattern of a hub, you really can't see what need to see with the hub in the wheel even if the wheel is right in front of you.
To really see the wear pattern need to remove the hub from the wheel.
If you have some familiarity with the wear pattern, maybe can get a light shining into there and feel by probing with a stiff wire or something.

I figured how expensive can a hub be. Checked CMSNL, €170.5 xD

Do you know how long they last? And I assume if I change the end on the wheel I should change the other end on the final drive too...

I think I just have to get one, and see what its condition is like. Hopefully it works, and if not I'll figure something out.

 

[Redman]

I figured how expensive can a hub be. Checked CMSNL, ?170.5 xD

Do you know how long they last? And I assume if I change the end on the wheel I should change the other end on the final drive too...

I think I just have to get one, and see what its condition is like. Hopefully it works, and if not I'll figure something out.

Yah, so someone selling a wheel with a hub, for a small amount, either doesn't know what a hub is worth, or doesn't want to bother removing it. (Which isnt usually difficult, but can be.)

You ask: How long does a hub last? Well, that is a long discussion. Discussion will involved how well it was lubed, how often was it lubed, and lubed with what. And which design of hub it is, as that changed in about 3 different years. Are other postings/discussions of that. Again, is a long detailed discussion. Biggest things to learn is:
- they can wear if not lubed, should be lube at least as often as have rear wheel off, or more
- that the ones from year 1982 are the ones that wear the worst.

No, dont assume the splines on the final drive (that mate to the hub) will wear. Typically they dont, and are not really replaceable (can replace entire final drive).
The splines on the hub wear, if anything does, and are replaceable.

 

[Grimly]

That hub is a black one and chances are it's not worn.
Not to say they don't wear at all, as I found out recently, but in normal use they don't wear.

 

[Rob S.]

What do I look for?

Roundness. Avoid sharp bends.

Merry Christmas, everybody! (And Praise Bob!)

 

[Guest]

Roundness. Avoid sharp bends.

Merry Christmas, everybody! (And Praise Bob!)

Merry christmas!

I bought the last one linked, fingers crossed it arrives with the hub and round.