Where to buy a stator

[shibby_cbs]

So i am pretty sure ill be picking one up off of ebay but wasnt sure what to go with. there are used ones that dont specify wether it came from a running bike. used ones that come still mounted in the case. brand new off brand ones and brand new oem ones. i am also sure there are ones that come from other bikes that also work with ours.

so i guess my question is if it were your bike which one would you get. id like to spend the least amount of money while still getting a part that i know will work. also if there is not much difference between a used one and a new one then ill spring the extra for the new one.

this same question goes for the regulator/rectifier...i havnt tested to see if it were any good yet but i figure id lump it in with this thread so i didnt have to ask basicaly the same question again.

btw the bike i have is a 1982 GS650G

 

[posplayr]

are you having problems?
Often the problems is in the connections to the R/R.
You might be able to fix it that way and regardless it is the recommended procedure if if you put in all new parts.


GS Charging health in the link in my signature

 

[rustybronco]

First of all welcome to the GSR!

Second, you might want to introduce yourself to the gang here and post a little bit about yourself in the owners section.

Third, if I was in need of a stator I would look for a used one that has nice bright enamel which to me would indicate an un-burnt stator. It would be nice if you can get the seller to give you some resistance measurements as well.

Have you checked your stators resistance and voltage output yet? Are you positive that one is necessary? same with the R/R... Test first then repair what is wrong with your charging system. You might find the trouble come from just a bad connection.

Lastly, this thread might help you with finding a replacement 'HONDA' R/R (a popular mod) to replace yours with IF it has gone south. http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=134690

 

[shibby_cbs]

are you having problems?
Often the problems is in the connections to the R/R.
You might be able to fix it that way and regardless it is the recommended procedure if if you put in all new parts.


GS Charging health in the link in my signature

well when i posted this about 20 min ago i had unhooked all 3 connectors to the stator and tried testing the the ohm reading with the rubber casing still around the connector. i wasnt getting any reading so i assumed it was bad. after i posted i went back out and cut off the clear rubber covers to get better access to the connectors. i was then able to get a reading of about 2.5 ohms on the 20 setting between all three wires. i wasnt sure if that was right because i didnt remember the numbers but i went ahead and started the bike to test the output. with the bike at idle i get about 2.5 to 3.0 ac volts on the 200 setting. when i rev the bike i get about 5.5 to 5.5 ac volts on 200 on all wires. its supposed to be in the 50-80's correct? i will read through the link in your profile while i wait for a response. btw my stator connectors are very clean and shiny on the insides.

 

[shibby_cbs]

First of all welcome to the GSR!

Second, you might want to introduce yourself to the gang here and post a little bit about yourself in the owners section.

Third, if I was in need of a stator I would look for a used one that has nice bright enamel which to me would indicate an un-burnt stator. It would be nice if you can get the seller to give you some resistance measurements as well.

Have you checked your stators resistance and voltage output yet? Are you positive that one is necessary? same with the R/R... Test first then repair what is wrong with your charging system. You might find the trouble come from just a bad connection.

Lastly, this thread might help you with finding a replacement 'HONDA' R/R (a popular mod) to replace yours with IF it has gone south. http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=134690

i plan on introducing myself as soon as i am done with the bike tonight....light is fading fast so i am trying to work fast. actually i was previously a member with a couple hundred posts a few years back but it seems my account is no longer active. in my time here before i replaced all of my rubber bits as well as rebuilt my carbs not once but twice. i also had one of the more popular members (dont remember his name) stop by my place and hrlp me with shimming the valves. i believe he was the guy who created the shim spreadsheet that does the calculations for you. ive also replaced the head and cam tower gaskets.

 

[Agemax]

hi and welcome,again........ if you are a previous member then you should know all about the search function. using this will help you find the answers you need to check out your stator and R/R, without having to wait for a reply.

 

[shibby_cbs]

hi and welcome,again........ if you are a previous member then you should know all about the search function. using this will help you find the answers you need to check out your stator and R/R, without having to wait for a reply.

yes i know how to use the search function......my question was not about how to test but where and what to buy which is a type of question that is a bit harder to find. i was then asked if i tested first so i responded with what i did and the readings i got.

 

[rustybronco]

its supposed to be in the 50-80's correct?

Between 60 and 90 V.A.C.

Double check your meter by flipping it onto 200 VAC (if in the USA) and measuring a wall outlets voltage. If the meter reads correctly (approx 120VAC), and if you had a good connection on the stators leads when testing it's output, then the next step would be to remove the cover to inspect the stators physical appearance.

 

[shibby_cbs]

Between 60 and 90 V.A.C.

Double check your meter by flipping it onto 200 VAC (if in the USA) and measuring a wall outlets voltage. If the meter reads correctly (approx 120VAC), and if you had a good connection on the stators leads when testing it's output, then the next step would be to remove the cover to inspect the stators physical appearance.

That's what I thought....I double checked it already but I will triple check. Is there a side by side comparison I could look at to judge against mine? I guess I could always just take a picture of it and post it. As soon as I get back from dinner I shall do so....thanks for the help guys....my battery appreciates it...stay tuned.

 

[rustybronco]

I guess I could always just take a picture of it and post it. As soon as I get back from dinner I shall do so...

That's the best thing to do...

 

[shibby_cbs]

there are two windings right next to eachother on the left that look a little crispy...what do you guys think?

 

[rustybronco]

The two at 9:00 and 9:30? they look crispy to me as well.

Again, what are the resistance readings on all three phases (windings)? AB-BC-CA and is (are) there a short(s) between any of the phases and the stators laminations (core)?

Also, what is your meters resistance when you touch the leads together? (checking your meter)

 

[shibby_cbs]

Between the meter leads is 1.1
Between yellow & W/B is 2.4
Between yellow & W/G is 2.4
Between W/B & W/G is 1.7
No shorts to the case or core

 

[Steve]

i also had one of the more popular members (dont remember his name) stop by my place and hrlp me with shimming the valves. i believe he was the guy who created the shim spreadsheet that does the calculations for you. ive also replaced the head and cam tower gaskets.

I am now "popular"?

Yes, it is I who stopped by to help you adjust your valves.

I have a couple of stators that were just rewound for me. I am in the process of getting set up as a dealer for a guy who winds them, and we are working on getting the details hammered out, but I can offer you a great deal on a good stator.

I had three of them rewound and put the first one on #1 son's 650, "Rat Bagger". It is working quite well so far, but time will tell how long it lasts. It is currently feeding a stock R/R, but by the end of the summer it will have a Polaris series R/R in place.

Let me know if you want a stator, I can get it to you for $80, including shipping.

.

 

[shibby_cbs]

STEVE!!!! I'm glad you chimed in...it's good to hear from you....just because you were such a big help those few years ago if I need a replacement (probably will) I'd be happy to get it from you. Btw what's the benefit of an upgraded r/r?

 

[rustybronco]

Between the meter leads is 1.1
Between yellow & W/B is 2.4
Between yellow & W/G is 2.4
Between W/B & W/G is 1.7
No shorts to the case or core

1.3
1.3
.6

Resistance readings are between .5 and 2.0 Ohms. No resistance between any of the poles and the core.

Stator check passes.

I don't like the .6 as it is in an unbalanced condition in relation to the others. Personally I'd replace it.

Are you sure you had the meter set on A.C. volts and not D.C. when you took those voltage measurements ?

 

[Steve]

Btw what's the benefit of an upgraded r/r?

I was going to say "do a search", but decided to do it for you.

Go up to post #2, the first response in this thread. You will see that it is from posplayr, our resident expert in the charging system. There are some links in his signature about upgrading your system.

In a nutshell, the R/R that comes on our bikes is a "shunt-style" unit. Basically the magnets in the flywheel (rotor) and the windings in the stator will generate voltage that is based on engine speed. More speed, more voltage, it's a very simple process. There comes a time rather early in the speed where it is making too much voltage and it needs to be regulated. The shunt style regulator merely diverts the entire output of the stator directly to ground, which, of course, leaves the bike with too little voltage. It immediately puts everything back to the bike, which is too much. It keeps switching the entire output back and forth, the average output is just enough. The problem with this is with the engines that tend to run at higher RPM. Smaller bikes like yours, or the guys who gear down and spend more time in the twisties at higher engine speeds are the biggest culprits. The root of the problem is that the stator is ALWAYS putting out the maximum that it can, and some of it is simply wasted by dumping it to ground. All that current makes it run hot, the proof is in your picture.

The upgraded R/R (Compufire, Shindengen, Polaris) is a "series-type" unit, which interrupts the current flow instead of diverting it to ground. The bike still sees current (or voltage) that is intermittent, and is still the average output, but the difference is that the stator also sees intermittent current, not the maximum all the time. This allows it to run cooler. Because the stator is running cooler, it does not heat up the oil as much, so the whole bike runs a bit cooler, too.

Click on the links in posplayr's signature, you can read a lot more about it.

.

 

[shibby_cbs]

I was going to say "do a search", but decided to do it for you.

Go up to post #2, the first response in this thread. You will see that it is from posplayr, our resident expert in the charging system. There are some links in his signature about upgrading your system.

In a nutshell, the R/R that comes on our bikes is a "shunt-style" unit. Basically the magnets in the flywheel (rotor) and the windings in the stator will generate voltage that is based on engine speed. More speed, more voltage, it's a very simple process. There comes a time rather early in the speed where it is making too much voltage and it needs to be regulated. The shunt style regulator merely diverts the entire output of the stator directly to ground, which, of course, leaves the bike with too little voltage. It immediately puts everything back to the bike, which is too much. It keeps switching the entire output back and forth, the average output is just enough. The problem with this is with the engines that tend to run at higher RPM. Smaller bikes like yours, or the guys who gear down and spend more time in the twisties at higher engine speeds are the biggest culprits. The root of the problem is that the stator is ALWAYS putting out the maximum that it can, and some of it is simply wasted by dumping it to ground. All that current makes it run hot, the proof is in your picture.

The upgraded R/R (Compufire, Shindengen, Polaris) is a "series-type" unit, which interrupts the current flow instead of diverting it to ground. The bike still sees current (or voltage) that is intermittent, and is still the average output, but the difference is that the stator also sees intermittent current, not the maximum all the time. This allows it to run cooler. Because the stator is running cooler, it does not heat up the oil as much, so the whole bike runs a bit cooler, too.

Click on the links in posplayr's signature, you can read a lot more about it.

.

thanks for writing that out for me steve. im just gonna go ahead and replace the stator so if you wanna send me the info i need to get one from you that would be great. im gonna go ahead and read through the links and test the rest of the system in the mean time.

 

[shibby_cbs]

nevermind i just saw your pm...thanks!

 

[bwringer]

If you want to save a few bucks but still get a reliable stator, hit fleaBay for a stator from a GS500.

Several GS models use the same stator (see cross-reference here).

My GS850 is currently wearing a stator from a 2001 GS500, and I've got a lovely 2005 GS500 stator on the shelf ready to go that cost me all of $25 shipped. The connectors are different, but that's a piffling detail -- as long as the stator itself is the same, there are lots of easy interchanges.

Only a few basic types of stators were used on most GS models -- for example, the 1980+ 1000 and 1100cc models (both shaft and chain drive) all used the same stator.