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Which cams should I use?

  • Thread starter Thread starter gearhead13
  • Start date Start date
G

gearhead13

Guest
The bike I am talking about is in my sig.
The '83 1100 cams in there now are a bit rare I think, they are both ~230 deg @.050 lift and with ~.296 lift. From what I have read they were usually smaller on the exhaust side.
Anyway, the bike has real good top end, but I miss the low end that I had with the stock cams. The lobe centerlines are 106-107 both. I have 2 more pair of supposedly 750 cams. Both exhaust and one intake measure the same lift (.171), and the third measures .191 at the cam or .296+ at the valve. Two of the 750 cams are marked R1 the others, R2. The intake R2 has the .191 lift. The higher lift intake doesnt seem to have any more duration, but it is hard to tell until they are installed.
I am trying to decide what cam combo I should use.
1. The 1100 ex cam with the high lift 750 intake
2. The 2 small 750 cams
3. the small exhaust cam with the higher lift intake.
4. The 750 exhaust cam with the 1100 intake cam.
5. re-degree the 1100 cams to tighter lobe centerlines (maybe 2-3 degrees tighter, dont know if that will make all that much difference)
Any input that helps me decide is greatly appreciated:)
 
The 83 1100 cams were the hottest of the 1100 sets. Definately good stuff. If you're running pods and a pipe, you're naturally going to lose a little bit of bottom end and low mid punch from that alone. I would suggest degreeing the cams more toward gaining some of that back. I dont know alot about the process, but you might ask Blowerbike or some of the drag guys. I think I discussed once with Blowerbike (Terry) and he had mentioned that by degreeing them the same, such as 102-102 would fool the bike into acting like it had higher compression, but if you're running a BB kit you probably have higher compression.

However, should you decide to go another route, and want to unload those 83 1100 cams, I have someone in mind that would be interested. Griffin mentioned trying a set out in this 82 1100 that im re-doing for him at the moment.... Good luck, and im watching this just out of curiosity to see what you end up with. I will be trying a set of GS1150 cams, which are .330 from what ive been told in my GS1100 when i go to the 1166 kit and the high flow head...
 
Or if you want to REALLY wake it up, use a set of Cam Motion G4s! They are .355 lift & 256 duration @ .050. Even a set of Web .348s will make it scream. I did an 1166, with .348 Webs, for a friend & with all used parts except seals & valve springs, today it dynoed 139.7 HP at the rear wheel. It ran 9.40s @ 138 before the carb change today! I will be disappointed if it won't run 9.30s now. It had 36 mm RS Mikuni flatslides on it & we put 38 mm Lectrons on it today. HUGE difference in throttle response!!! Ray.
 
Or if you want to REALLY wake it up, use a set of Cam Motion G4s! They are .355 lift & 256 duration @ .050. Even a set of Web .348s will make it scream. I did an 1166, with .348 Webs, for a friend & with all used parts except seals & valve springs, today it dynoed 139.7 HP at the rear wheel. It ran 9.40s @ 138 before the carb change today! I will be disappointed if it won't run 9.30s now. It had 36 mm RS Mikuni flatslides on it & we put 38 mm Lectrons on it today. HUGE difference in throttle response!!! Ray.
Ray, how do G4s do for an everyday street bike? I dont want to end up with twitchy or finicky response from the bike, or lose a buttload of low end torque and make it a top end monster... Too much with the G4s? Too much with the .348s? Stick with the .330s? Thanks..
 
The 83 1100 cams were the hottest of the 1100 sets. Definately good stuff. If you're running pods and a pipe, you're naturally going to lose a little bit of bottom end and low mid punch from that alone. I would suggest degreeing the cams more toward gaining some of that back. I dont know alot about the process, but you might ask Blowerbike or some of the drag guys. I think I discussed once with Blowerbike (Terry) and he had mentioned that by degreeing them the same, such as 102-102 would fool the bike into acting like it had higher compression, but if you're running a BB kit you probably have higher compression.

However, should you decide to go another route, and want to unload those 83 1100 cams, I have someone in mind that would be interested. Griffin mentioned trying a set out in this 82 1100 that im re-doing for him at the moment.... Good luck, and im watching this just out of curiosity to see what you end up with. I will be trying a set of GS1150 cams, which are .330 from what ive been told in my GS1100 when i go to the 1166 kit and the high flow head...
I dont remember exactly what i degreed these at, but it was around 106/107 both. I am worried that if i go too tight (like 102) I will have piston to valve clearance problems. AND what difference would 4 degrees make, anything much noticable??
 
Here is teh link of Valve lift for 16V engines I researched. All data fi from the OEM Suzuki manuals

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=140749

I honestly don't see how the stock GS1100ED cams can cause you to loose bottom end unless U did not degree them properly.

The ED valves are typically 7.5/7.0 which are0.295"/0.275"

The 1150's are 8.0/7.5 which is 0.315"/0.295"

The milder Webcams are 0.340"(8.6mm) v.s. the 0.348's Ray is talking about and I don't think I have any loss of low end when I was running stock or 1166 with the 0.340's.
 
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Here is teh link of Valve lift for 16V engines I researched. All data fi from the OEM Suzuki manuals

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=140749

I honestly don't see how the stock GS1100ED cams can cause you to loose bottom end unless U did not degree them properly.

The ED valves are 7.0/7.0 which is 0.275"

The 1150's are 8.0/7.5 which is 0.315"/0.295"

The milder Webcams are 0.340"(8.6mm) v.s. the 0.348's Ray is talking about and I don't think I have any loss of low end when I was running stock or 1166 with the 0.340's.
These 1100 cams are .295 lift with 230 deg @ .050 lift both, measured twice. Rockers are 1.6 ratio, right? These 750 cams measure 0.191 at the cam or over 0.300 lift minus lash. Remember these cams are in a 750.
 
These 1100 cams are .295 lift with 230 deg @ .050 lift both, measured twice. Rockers are 1.6 ratio, right? These 750 cams measure 0.191 at the cam or over 0.300 lift minus lash. Remember these cams are in a 750.

I think some of the 83 ED's (like yours) got the 7.5mm intake cams despite what the manual says. I have a set of what I'm pretty sure are the 0.295's that came from my ED originally.

IIRC, the rocker ratio is 1.5 but can't say for sure.

The 16V 750 cams are the smallest of all at only 0.256" (6.5 mm).
The exhaust part number is identical to the 80-81 GS1100E exhaust cams.

Crap sorry, I keep thinking you have an 1100E; So you have the BB 16V 750 kit. I know Terry (HeadsBikesMopars) did a similar motor and went with 1100E cams with his head magic and supposed to run great.
 
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Ya, runs damn good on the top end, but leaves some to be desired on the lowend/midrange. I am pretty sure i measured lift at the valve with the 1100 cams, but its been a while now, could be they are .286 (1.5) or higher with 1.6 ratio.:-k
 
According to the GS meister, Rapid Ray, the rocker ratio is 1.6-1 :)
 
According to the GS meister, Rapid Ray, the rocker ratio is 1.6-1 :)

I was going to say Ray would know.

We still have that mistry of the 7.5mm cams in the GS1100ED/ESD's but that might just be a manual typeo. I guess i could do a part number search to compare.

Jim
 
These 1100 cams are .295 lift with 230 deg @ .050 lift both, measured twice. Rockers are 1.6 ratio, right? These 750 cams measure 0.191 at the cam or over 0.300 lift minus lash. Remember these cams are in a 750.
NO, the stock rockers are 1.519. Ray.
 
NO, the stock rockers are 1.519. Ray.
Ok, how can you be that precise? I did a search and found a post with Ray saying they were 1.6-1:-k
Is it possible to change the rocker ratio? I noticed you said "stock rockers"
 
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