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Which valve compression tool?

i dont know, but i need one too. i tried to make my own, didnt work.
 
I'm interested too. Head and cylinder block coming off soon.....
 
This is my Homemade setup, and it works VERY well.

You need a large C-clamp, long enough to reach around to both sides plus 1-2 inches. I found one at autozone for $10, that has the nice feature of a push button release, so you don't spend a lot of time tightening/loosening.

buy a 6" length of PVC pipe (electrical section). It's either 1" or 1 1/4", but whichever it is, it fits perfectly into the recess in the block, so that misalignment it impossible. I suggest measuring this then going to the store.

If the thing came with threads, hack this section off.

cut a rectangle out of one face, make the hole maybe 1" by 1". leave 1/8-1/4" from one side of the pipe, and a fair bit on the other.

XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
XXXXXXXX---------XXX
XXXXXXXX---------XXX
XXXXXXXX---------XXX
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

<side view> - = cut, x = leave

you can use the flat side of the clamp on the tool side and the bolt side on the valve face. again, if you get the right size, misalignment is IMPOSSIBLE.

For assembly, getting the wedge things covered in grease allows you to use a small screwdriver to put them in place. once in place, the grease will also hold them there.
 
spchips said:
This is my Homemade setup, and it works VERY well.

You need a large C-clamp, long enough to reach around to both sides plus 1-2 inches. I found one at autozone for $10, that has the nice feature of a push button release, so you don't spend a lot of time tightening/loosening.

buy a 6" length of PVC pipe (electrical section). It's either 1" or 1 1/4", but whichever it is, it fits perfectly into the recess in the block, so that misalignment it impossible. I suggest measuring this then going to the store.

If the thing came with threads, hack this section off.

cut a rectangle out of one face, make the hole maybe 1" by 1". leave 1/8-1/4" from one side of the pipe, and a fair bit on the other.

XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
XXXXXXXX---------XXX
XXXXXXXX---------XXX
XXXXXXXX---------XXX
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

<side view> - = cut, x = leave

you can use the flat side of the clamp on the tool side and the bolt side on the valve face. again, if you get the right size, misalignment is IMPOSSIBLE.

For assembly, getting the wedge things covered in grease allows you to use a small screwdriver to put them in place. once in place, the grease will also hold them there.
Click to expand...


Great job. I love do it yourself...on the cheap! :)
 
just used it yesterday

just used it yesterday

Here is the tool I mentioned. I just used it on my 650 head.

DSC04301.jpg

DSC04300.jpg
 
My homemade valve spring compressor is very similar except that I cut a window in a spark plug socket with a Dremel tool instead of using a plastic fitting. I don't know why I have accumulated so many cheepo spark plug sockets, but there are usually plenty lying around.

I also used the Dremel to carve out a flat spot on the top of the C-clamp and drilled a hole so I could attach the socket with a bolt and nut.

The plastic fitting is probably a better idea, since I had to carefully dress the edges of the spark plug socket to ensure that it wouldn't scratch the lifter bore.
 
I tried the PVC but I found two problems with it: the tube was a little wide and would sometimes bind up in the channel. The other problem was that the PVC I used was a little soft and it required that the cutout be smaller than I wanted (to avoid risk that it would fold over). I eventually got it done but there was some foul language involved.

Check out the following from the 10/06 issue of Classic Motorcycle Mechanics. I'm gonna try this the next time I need it:

http://www.appledor.net/~jtsillas/sharedpics/topendtip.pdf

BTW, this magazine is the best I've found so far for what we do. It's not cheap ($7.50) but IMO it is worth it.
 
I cut the side out of a piece of 32mm OD ali pipe and use a G clamp. With a 3mm wall thickness it is rigid and fits nicely on the spring retainer allowing good access to the colletts. The cut out is similar to the plastic one in the previous post.
 
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