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Will a bad Stator not allow 82' GS550 to idle

  • Thread starter Thread starter curtie94
  • Start date Start date
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curtie94

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I have a 1982 GS550 and I can not get the thing to idle. I charged the battery and started it up it idled for a nit then started to crap out. It runs good above idle if I'm on the throttle I'm good, it runs good plenty of power.

I did check my voltage on the battery while running and I was getting 12v at idle and 12v at redline.

But know knows now, when i check my spark I get a nice spark but it isn't all that big of a spark. it is a faint blue.

I checked the plugs after it stalled and all the plugs where black., I tried to restart the bike and the battery was too drained, I put the booster on it and it fired right up.

Im just wondering if a bad stator will kill a bike at idle?


I am pretty sure that I have a slight air leak in my air box since if I put a rag over the intake it revs better but it only revs to about 6000rpm

Without a rag it bogs off idle and has a hard time revving.
 
Those more knowledgeable then myself will be along, but yes a bad stator will prevent the bike from idling. 12v at the battery at redline is low. Posplayr is the resident charging expert and has some links in his signature for troubleshooting.
 
No, bad stator won't affect idle unless the battery is almost dead.
 
I'm charging the battery tonight I'll see how it reacts tomorrow.

What else could cause the bike to bee so rich. Maybe my rag was to restrictive.
 
What else could cause the bike to bee so rich. Maybe my rag was to restrictive.

So stock airbox? Is the lid installed with a filter inside? Is the filter freshly cleaned and oiled like the manual instructs?

This is the bike that wouldn't start a while back eh? What was wrong with it?
 
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Yes to all of those.

And it was the dyna s. I got the new warranty one and it fired right up. I had it idling good a couple days ago but I had to pull every thing back out carbs and boots because I had a leaking head boot.

It just send to run tell rich. I even turned the fuel screw on s little to see if that was the problem. I started them at 2 turns out.

Before I pulled the carbs the plugs where all light brown other then the one with the air leak. Now all of the plugs are black.

I tried sealing the air box lid with weather stripping but it didn't help. So this time I tried rtv but still nothing.

Now that I think about it maybe having a rag over the intake might have caused the plugs to foul rich and maybe they are too far gone.
 
Trying to make sense out of this comment:
It just send to run tell rich.


This comment says a little bit more: (but it still needed a bit of deciphering)
I even turned the fuel screw on s little to see if that was the problem. I started them at 2 turns out.
First, either clean your plugs or install new ones.

Next, turn your mixture screws out to 3 turns out from lightly-seated.

If you have a stock filter (or a K&N insert) in a stock airbox, keep any rags away from the air inlet and try again.

When the bike warms up, try tweaking the mixture screws for best (fastest) idle speed. They might end up in the range of 2 to 2 1/2 turns out, but starting with them at 2 turns might just be too lean for proper running.

.
 
No, bad stator won't affect idle unless the battery is almost dead.
Or more precisely as long as you have 12v (running and discharging) at the battery it is unlikely that the charging will cause any detriment. So if it starts don't worry about it as far are running. Obviously that would be a deprecate charging issue.
 
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I did check my voltage on the battery while running and I was getting 12v at idle and 12v at redline.
It sounds like your charging system is bad. So you will need to check it out soon. But,if you want to know the answer to your question
[h=2]Will a bad Stator not allow 82' GS550 to idle [/h]it's easy to answer it for your particular situation

Disconnect the stator's three wires and run the bike from a charged up car battery, that will last longer and stress your small motorcycle battery less.
Also, expand your question to "will a bad regulator /rectifier not allow 82' gs550 to idle"
Disconnect the R/R and run the bike ...

whatever the result, you will need to check electrics out.
 
I did check my voltage on the battery while running and I was getting 12v at idle and 12v at redline.

Did not even see that. Why not fix it?
Do the full "Quick Test" and report the answers for a diagnosis.
 
well after i set the mixture screws at 3 turn out it idles better. I took the bike out for quick ride a checked the plugs only one of the plugs looked like it should. the other 3 where white, they looked new.

so it seems like I'm lean.

as for the charging issue ill look into it more later.

What can cause 3 of the cylinders to be lean?

ill try and spray some carb clean around the intake and see what i come up with.
 
What can cause 3 of the cylinders to be lean?
OK, let's back up a bit and start over. :-k

How long have you had the bike?

How much do you know of its maintenance history?

How much (if any) of the BASIC maintenance have you done?

Until you KNOW that the valves are properly set and the carbs are PROPERLY cleaned, there is no sense at all applying figurative Band-Aids to get the bike running correctly.

Then, once the bike is running somewhat reliably, you can dive in to the electrical system for another barrel of laughs.

.
 
I have had the bike for a few months. I have replaced the head and base gasket. Cleaned the carbs all jets and orifices are clean, and sealed the air box.

I did adjust the valves.

as for maintenance history I have no clue, other then it has a aftermarket stator since all three wires are the same color.
 
if the air box wasn't sealed correctly could that be my problem. Because now that think about it the bike runs real crappy when its cold and It has absolutely no throttle response. But once it warms up I get my throttle response.

Where can I get new clamps for my carbs?

edit:

I was just looking at a parts fiche and it looks like I'm supposed to have what they call a "hose ring" on my air box boots. I don't have them could that cause my problems? What exactly do they do?
 
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OK, now we are getting some useful information.
I have had the bike for a few months. I have replaced the head and base gasket.
With this information, I would suggest that you go back and verify cam timing.


Cleaned the carbs all jets and orifices are clean, and sealed the air box.
HOW did you "clean the carbs"? Did you do a full "strip and dip" cleaning and replace all the o-rings or did you just spray some cleaner around for a bit?


Where can I get new clamps for my carbs?
You probably don't need clamps, you need new boots to put inside those clamps.


We can not stress enough how important it is to have properly-timed valves with proper clearances, clean carbs with fresh o-rings and clean electrical connections for these bikes to run properly.

.
 
I did a full strip and dip on the carbs. new o-rings and new pilots since I destroyed them removing them. Oh also new fuel screws because I destroyed those too.

Cam timing is spot on. well the 1 arrow is slightly above the gasket surface.

Yesterday I did notice one clamp what buckled a bit and was not sealing correctly after I fixed that the bike idled better, and guess what that is the one cylinder that isn't lean.
 
I just went and sprayed carb clean around the air box boots and the rpms went up so the boots are not sealing well. I guess ill pull the carbs again after supper and see what I can do.
 
I checked my carb sync thinking that maybe that was my cause but the carbs are synced perfect. so im back to square 1. Ill get the bike warmed up then ill try and set the mixture screws as best as I can and see what comes out of it, at least maybe ill get a better idle.

But if I rev the bike the rpms hang quite a bit like I have a air leak. would a air box or air box boots that are not sealing well cause this or is this somthing that only happens with a air leak after the carbs?
 
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