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Winterazation

  • Thread starter Thread starter will61310
  • Start date Start date
W

will61310

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Any tips or suggestions as to what to do ? Stabil, seafoam, or both? My bike runs great now, and i would sure like it to in the spring also.. It will be in a storage unit - unheated, but i will start it every 2 - 3 weeks and maybe do a few laps around the units. My main concern is tank rusting and carbs gumming up, but i do want it started every so often also.. scored a centerstand for an 1150 on ebay, is it better than using kickstand for long term? Thanks, Will
 
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Either Sta-Bil or Seafoam will work, but no need to mix them. I have used Sta-Bil for years with no problems, but have recently switched to Seafoam to eliminate one more product on my shelves. Seafoam is better for an occasional 'freshening up' during the riding season, so I just use one product now. I have always doubled the recommended dose and it works well. I also do this for my snow blower, which sees a longer hibernation thany any of my bikes.

If you have a centerstand, use it. Put a small piece of plywood under the front tire to keep the tire off the cement, or maybe even a block under the front of the frame to elevate the tire completely.

Your best bet is to ride to the auto parts store with a partial tank of gas, add your (double) dose of Seafoam, fill the tank, ride home. Change the oil, ride to the storage unit, park it. If there is power available at the storage unit, put a Battery Tender on it and LEAVE IT ALONE. Starting it "to keep the battery charged" just does not work. It will take longer to run it to charge up what you depleted by starting it than it's worth. Don't even think of starting the bike unless you will take it out for a 20-30 minute ride to get it up to full operating temperature. A couple times around the block just will not do. You will be building condensation in the oil and in the mufflers and it will rot from the inside out. If you don't have power available, pull the battery and take it home. Not having it readily accessable for that tempting "ride around the units" will go a long way to preserving your bike.

Be sure to check with the manager of the storage units. Some places will not allow vehicles. Some of the ones that do allow them will insist that the gas tank be drained. Keeps their insurance rates down.

.
 
will61310 said:
Any tips or suggestions as to what to do ? Stabil, seafoam, or both? My bike runs great now, and i would sure like it to in the spring also.. It will be in a storage unit - unheated, but i will start it every 2 - 3 weeks and maybe do a few laps around the units. My main concern is tank rusting and carbs gumming up, but i do want it started every so often also.. scored a centerstand for an 1150 on ebay, is it better than using kickstand for long term? Thanks, Will
Click to expand...


If I knew you needed a center stand I would have sold you the one of my 81 GS1100E :(

Nice bike tho, mine should be that color, but I have some, well alot of mutt in mine at the moment.
 
If you want to be sure your carbs dont gum up, use the drain screws on the bottom of each carb to empty them and leave them open all winter long. Fuel tap off of course. Fill the tank up all the way to prevent rust, Sta-bil is recomended. Heed the aforementioned advice about BatteryTenders, but check the water level in your battery first. Close the drain screws when you want to start it and turn the fuel valve to "PRI" to fill up the bowls.
 
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Winterized.....

rear_ice_tire_mounted.jpg
 
Steve said:
add your (double) dose of Seafoam, fill the tank, ride home.
Click to expand...

I noticed that the folks that manufacture Seafoam suggest adding it to your oil as well as your fuel. Has anyone here ever done so? And, if so, how did it turn out?
 
Winterazation:

is the time to inspect and lube up the bike. makes it easyer when the spring comes and your ready to ride. replace brake fluid, both brakes. inspect the brakes. its cheep one pint normly takes care of the hole bike. remove swing arm and rear brake. clean up and relube them and reinstall. check the hole bike out. if it moves lube it. check the under side good for chips in the paint from rocks. durt and crud that may of been missed.

now is the time to make the repair list. winter can be a killer on bikes but a proper lube job and you get time to hunt down hard to find parts that you may need in the spring.
 
I prefer the seafoam, too. Bikes seem to run better, mine anyway, with the seafoam than stabil. As mentioned you can always use it during the "riding season", too.

I was recently told that I could use acetone instead of seafoam because that is it's active ingredient. What about that???

(I'm glad I don't need spikes on my GS, but it does look like fun!!)
Since we only have snow and ice for a couple weeks or so, I use that time to try to do the repairs, and oil changes, etc...
 
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Unfortunately I also have to "put the bikes down" for the winter. I personally drain the carb bowls, even with the stabil my carbs would gum up over the winter and they have been fine since I have been draining them the last few years. Here is my list

Wash & Dry, put in Stabil, run for 15 miles, fill up tank as far as possible, lube cables, etc, drain carbs, put on center stand, cover with blanket or ventilated bike cover. I probably should change the oil but I usually do not run oil more than 1000 miles so I usually start it in the spring and change the oil, lube cables etc first thing. In the spring I shoot some fogging oil in the upper cylinders before starting it for the first time.
 
Hmm Winterize... Should be as easy as filling the tank, tossing the mesh and the helmet on the bed and going out riding in some nice cool air where you arn't getting burnt by the 115 degree blast.

That will hold you off till late Dec, then you might wanna get that jacket out for early morning rides, it does get down in the 50's :D
 
twr1776 said:
I probably should change the oil but I usually do not run oil more than 1000 miles so I usually start it in the spring and change the oil
Click to expand...

Ive been told dirty oil holds moisture (water) and is corrosive. Not a good idea to store a motor over the winter with dirty oil. Im a fair weather rider and only change my oil every couple years.
 
bonanzadave said:
Ive been told dirty oil holds moisture (water) and is corrosive. Not a good idea to store a motor over the winter with dirty oil. Im a fair weather rider and only change my oil every couple years.
Click to expand...

Good idea to change it before storage, that's for sure!
 
i refuse to believe that it's time to winterize so i will ignore this thread. thank you.
 
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