U will see the process for different combinations here.
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=1026173&postcount=23
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=1026173&postcount=23
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Wiring New Gauge Set - Koso Gauges
- Thread starter salty_monk
- Start date
On those Koso instructions there is a big note stating to make sure the Tach signal comes from coil + otherwise the meter could break....
I thought the Orange White was coil +? Am I wrong??
I thought the Orange White was coil +? Am I wrong??
Dan,
You should probably call tech support if you can. From looking at the documentation there seems to be three different methods that could be used to drive the tach signal.
A seems to be wrapping a wire around the #1 coil wire.
B seems to be measuring from the RPM pickup
C seems to use the coils (Electrode???) which shoudl be the low side control from the ignitor.
In other words any signal that pulses, they will do an edge detect and count those edges for the Tach display.
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T
tejasmud
Guest
There are 2 orange with white trace wires and these feed the coils 12v. They should be at 12v all day long, with the kill switch on. They feed back into the harness and are crimp spliced into the positive off the igniter.. which also feeds back to the kill switch.
The black yellow trace goes to #2 and #3, white goes to #1 and #4. These are your pulse, or trigger wires (edit: at the igniter) . the break in the signal at the igniter on the black/yellow and white wires cause the coil to fire.
I edited this, and deleted the last post. Too much info not relevent.
Let me back up some. Sorry.
Black with yellow trace feeds the Original Tach.
Did you connect to this yet?
E
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No I didn't as I didn't want to risk busting the gauge. It expressly says + side of the coil. When B/y pulses surely that signal must be + too or does it provide a temp ground for the coil to make it fire
Have emailed their tech support but no answer yet.
Have emailed their tech support but no answer yet.
Got through to Tech support today. Pierre - French Canadian by the sounds of it but good English.
He advised me that I should just connect up to that B/Y wire for the original stock Tach & select the "Hi" rating along with 4 cycle, 4 cylinder.
He said that the internal protection inside the gauge is pretty good & that I won't break anything if this doesn't work so I'll try to get it wired in & tested this week.
Dan
He advised me that I should just connect up to that B/Y wire for the original stock Tach & select the "Hi" rating along with 4 cycle, 4 cylinder.
He said that the internal protection inside the gauge is pretty good & that I won't break anything if this doesn't work so I'll try to get it wired in & tested this week.
Dan
Got through to Tech support today. Pierre - French Canadian by the sounds of it but good English.
He advised me that I should just connect up to that B/Y wire for the original stock Tach & select the "Hi" rating along with 4 cycle, 4 cylinder.
He said that the internal protection inside the gauge is pretty good & that I won't break anything if this doesn't work so I'll try to get it wired in & tested this week.
Dan
That is what I figured, but I did not want to ASSUME and make an A$$ out of U and ME
.Now-a-days all sensor inputs are pretty much very high imdpedance and very difficult to burn them up unless you seriously overvoltage (100 volts) or ESD spike (thousands of volts). With an adequate ESD/EMI protected design the input should be tolerant of most stuff and be selecteable as the instructions suggest.
T
tejasmud
Guest
Glad to see you have it sorted. Can't wait to see it set up.
I know all too well the feeling of not wanting to "smoke" anything. The Innovate DAQ I run is way too expensive to just guess at wiring as well. First time set-up was nerve racking.
On the Koso instruction sheet the picture is a CDI ignition. A little different than a GS, and they only have one positive lead.
The main "Caution" is never hook a gauge to the plug wire directly.
1000s of volts, and it will "smoke" a gauge pretty quick.
Wrapping the lead around the plug wire is okay; in this case the wire is basically picking up the pulse inductively. Point and condenser ignition can be hooked up this way. On a CDI ignition the pulse through the plug wires are too short in duration to be sensed inductively, so the RPM sense needs to come off the Primary wire (+) to the coil.
The B/y and W are +, until the igniter is triggered, and could basically say it grounds the wire inside the igniter box through the boxes negitive. Similar to how the signal is cut by the points on point/condenser systems.
Oh, this was some of the "not relevent info" before.
E
I know all too well the feeling of not wanting to "smoke" anything. The Innovate DAQ I run is way too expensive to just guess at wiring as well. First time set-up was nerve racking.
On the Koso instruction sheet the picture is a CDI ignition. A little different than a GS, and they only have one positive lead.
The main "Caution" is never hook a gauge to the plug wire directly.
1000s of volts, and it will "smoke" a gauge pretty quick.
Wrapping the lead around the plug wire is okay; in this case the wire is basically picking up the pulse inductively. Point and condenser ignition can be hooked up this way. On a CDI ignition the pulse through the plug wires are too short in duration to be sensed inductively, so the RPM sense needs to come off the Primary wire (+) to the coil.
The B/y and W are +, until the igniter is triggered, and could basically say it grounds the wire inside the igniter box through the boxes negitive. Similar to how the signal is cut by the points on point/condenser systems.
Oh, this was some of the "not relevent info" before.
E
Seems relevant to me... 
Thanks
Will post pics etc when I have it set up - I may even make a video to keep Jim happy but I think the fancy music might be above & beyond for me
:lol:
Thanks
Will post pics etc when I have it set up - I may even make a video to keep Jim happy but I think the fancy music might be above & beyond for me
:lol:
Seems relevant to me...
Thanks
Will post pics etc when I have it set up - I may even make a video to keep Jim happy but I think the fancy music might be above & beyond for me
I'll just have to be ready and turn up my Ipod
Wired up the gauges & my gear indicator today. Left the N off the gear indicator & wired to the new gauges instead, I think it looks better that way.
The gauges are reading ok but I had to do a couple of things.
1. Set the RPM to 4 stroke, 2 Piston (presumably as it's wasted spark it's sparking twice as much as a 4 stroke would normally spark).
2. Problems with the indicators. They do not light or flash properly even though I have an electric relay already installed. Flashers installed are LED on this bike which could be a factor. If I plug the original gauge set back in then they work fine so I am guessing the fix is to insert a resistor into the wire between harness & gauge. Original bulbs are 12v / 3w so I worked that back to a resistance of 48ohms. I'm not even sure one that low exists (or if it would matter if a used a higher value resistor) & also unsure which way to face it, band towards loom or band towards gauges. Can someone help me out??
P=IV 3 = I x 12 = 0.25a
V=IR 12=0.25 x R =48ohms
3. The water temp connection (Purple) appears to be for a light on the dash only (or maybe it's also for one of their senders. The Suzuki wire (Pink) has no effect on it & the temp light (red) stays on the whole time. - I cut the connection & it has now gone out.
I'm now thinking I have to use the other accessory to get an oil temp but the Suzuki temp sensor is very low resistance (100 ohm) & I measured the one that came with the Koso kit & at room temp it is 11k ohm or there abouts. It also has two connections rather than the Suzuki single connection. I may just leave it disconnected for now. The annoying thing is that oil temp & fuel are twinned on the left of the gauge & water temp & clock are twinned at the top. I can't get clock & fuel level to show together so it always leaves one annoyingly blank or flashing!
4. I connected the side stand switch to the Hazard lamp in the idea it would work backwards (i.e. on when side stand is up) but it doesn't work at all. I could probably connect it to the Water Temp Light though & it should work properly - I have to think about that!!
High Beam lamp works fine, fuel gauge works fine, Tach works fine. Not connected the Speed sensor yet as their bracket isn't long enough for the sensor to line up with the magnets in the bolts. I have to fabricate an extension (using the 2nd sensor bracket they included I think or a bent piece of thick Aluminium stock should do it).
I should get the speed sensor mounted next week & by that time my seat will be back from Sargents & I can ride it!
Suzuki Temp Gauge resistance chart:
Showing Fuel & Water temp:
Showing clock & Oil Temp:
Engine is not running in the pics. Tach is only digital (numbers) which is a bit of a pain... thinking the Acewells might be better from that point of view.
The gauges are reading ok but I had to do a couple of things.
1. Set the RPM to 4 stroke, 2 Piston (presumably as it's wasted spark it's sparking twice as much as a 4 stroke would normally spark).
2. Problems with the indicators. They do not light or flash properly even though I have an electric relay already installed. Flashers installed are LED on this bike which could be a factor. If I plug the original gauge set back in then they work fine so I am guessing the fix is to insert a resistor into the wire between harness & gauge. Original bulbs are 12v / 3w so I worked that back to a resistance of 48ohms. I'm not even sure one that low exists (or if it would matter if a used a higher value resistor) & also unsure which way to face it, band towards loom or band towards gauges. Can someone help me out??
P=IV 3 = I x 12 = 0.25a
V=IR 12=0.25 x R =48ohms
3. The water temp connection (Purple) appears to be for a light on the dash only (or maybe it's also for one of their senders. The Suzuki wire (Pink) has no effect on it & the temp light (red) stays on the whole time. - I cut the connection & it has now gone out.
I'm now thinking I have to use the other accessory to get an oil temp but the Suzuki temp sensor is very low resistance (100 ohm) & I measured the one that came with the Koso kit & at room temp it is 11k ohm or there abouts. It also has two connections rather than the Suzuki single connection. I may just leave it disconnected for now. The annoying thing is that oil temp & fuel are twinned on the left of the gauge & water temp & clock are twinned at the top. I can't get clock & fuel level to show together so it always leaves one annoyingly blank or flashing!
4. I connected the side stand switch to the Hazard lamp in the idea it would work backwards (i.e. on when side stand is up) but it doesn't work at all. I could probably connect it to the Water Temp Light though & it should work properly - I have to think about that!!
High Beam lamp works fine, fuel gauge works fine, Tach works fine. Not connected the Speed sensor yet as their bracket isn't long enough for the sensor to line up with the magnets in the bolts. I have to fabricate an extension (using the 2nd sensor bracket they included I think or a bent piece of thick Aluminium stock should do it).
I should get the speed sensor mounted next week & by that time my seat will be back from Sargents & I can ride it!
Suzuki Temp Gauge resistance chart:
Showing Fuel & Water temp:
Showing clock & Oil Temp:
Engine is not running in the pics. Tach is only digital (numbers) which is a bit of a pain... thinking the Acewells might be better from that point of view.
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The flashers do the same thing I.e pulse dimly with no gauge connected at all... Leads me to believe the koso has virtually no resistance...
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