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Won't Start

  • Thread starter Thread starter GS650E_81
  • Start date Start date
Yeah, ya gotta have that spring.

I bent a tiny hook on the end of a dental pick. Works great for retrieving items from those little holes.

How long are you leaving the carb in the dip? The carbs must be completely disassembled.
 
GS650E_81 said:
The washer is out, looks rough though. The rubber o ring was split. The cavity is empty, I put a screw driver down the cavity, and moved around, nothing. I just dipped the carb, if it's in there it may come out now.
Click to expand...
In this case, it's just a spring- you might find a suitable replacement at a hardware store, cuz all it does is put tension on mixture screw. But please no springs from pens!
 
Octain said:
Yeah, ya gotta have that spring.

I bent a tiny hook on the end of a dental pick. Works great for retrieving items from those little holes.

How long are you leaving the carb in the dip? The carbs must be completely disassembled.
Click to expand...

I dipped each carb. for 24 hours as well as the jets, etc.
 
I am in the process of rebuilding the carbs. I am having a problem getting the rubber diaphragm to stick into its little slot when putting the top of the carb back on, is there a secret to get it to stick in its groove?

I don't think I have it sealed in the groove all the way on carb 1, will this cause a problem?
 
GS650E_81 said:
I am in the process of rebuilding the carbs. I am having a problem getting the rubber diaphragm to stick into its little slot when putting the top of the carb back on, is there a secret to get it to stick in its groove?

I don't think I have it sealed in the groove all the way on carb 1, will this cause a problem?
Click to expand...
Sure will ! I thought Mr. Nessism's carb tutorial mentioned this somewhere. Anyways, so the flat portion of "boot" ain't sticking down- I'll assume you got tab in right spot? How about a little dab of grease to hold it down?
 
tom203 said:
Sure will ! I thought Mr. Nessism's carb tutorial mentioned this somewhere. Anyways, so the flat portion of "boot" ain't sticking down- I'll assume you got tab in right spot? How about a little dab of grease to hold it down?
Click to expand...

I put a little plumbers grease in the slot, but it still won't stay down. I will have to open the tops again and make sure it sticks.
 
GS650E_81 said:
I put a little plumbers grease in the slot, but it still won't stay down. I will have to open the tops again and make sure it sticks.
Click to expand...
Since you don't have a toaster oven, how about a hair dryer to heat boot up till it gets slightly sleepy?
 
The float height on these floats seem wayy off. I measure 18.4, when they are supposed to be 22.4

To reach the 22.4, I just pull the little float tab correct?
 
Please take a few mins and read though the carb rebuild tutorial. It details the correct way to measure float height (you must hold up the float if the float needle tang spring won't support the float under it's own weight. Also, consider replacing the float needles if they won't. The tutorial also detail how to get the diaphragm boot to stay in the groove without using grease or any foreign material.

Good luck
 
Got the carbs. rebuilt with fresh o-rings, gaskets. Just got done installing new carb intake boots and o-rings as well.

Now I am putting her back together. Is it best to install carbs first, then air box, or air box then carbs? I am having a heck of a time trying to get the airbox back on.

Will post pics. later.
 
Put your airbox in first and pull it back far enough to get the carbs in. You may have to loosen up the rear mudguard to do so.
 
GS650E_81 said:
Got the carbs. rebuilt with fresh o-rings, gaskets. Just got done installing new carb intake boots and o-rings as well.

Now I am putting her back together. Is it best to install carbs first, then air box, or air box then carbs? I am having a heck of a time trying to get the airbox back on.

Will post pics. later.
Click to expand...
I'm pretty sure you want to get airbox in and back as far as you can and then get carb rack in from left side- it ain't fun!
 
FWIW, I put my carbs in and out from the right side on my 650. Soft boots and teflon spray make it less ornerous. It's still a PITA on the smaller bikes though.

P.S. +1 on airbox first, then carbs.
 
Well I got the airbox on nice and tight last night. Only took 3 hours :dancing:

NOW, the carbs are not even coming close to fitting. I have brand new intake boots which are stiff, and I am using the old airbox boots.

Any suggestions on which way to attack this?
 
Use some grease. I use plumber's grease, see my review in the Product Reviews section.
 
GS650E_81 said:
Well I got the airbox on nice and tight last night. Only took 3 hours :dancing:

NOW, the carbs are not even coming close to fitting. I have brand new intake boots which are stiff, and I am using the old airbox boots.

Any suggestions on which way to attack this?
Click to expand...
Your model is slightly different but..... you DON"T want "airbox on nice and tight" - you want it just hanging in there (not bolted) and pushed to rear as far as possible, move wires, loosen fender, etc. anything that gives you an extra 1/4 inch .
 
tom203 said:
Your model is slightly different but..... you DON"T want "airbox on nice and tight" - you want it just hanging in there (not bolted) and pushed to rear as far as possible, move wires, loosen fender, etc. anything that gives you an extra 1/4 inch .
Click to expand...

Yeah, I will loosen the bolts holding the box to frame tonight and give it a go.
 
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