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would you replace a stator with these readings?

  • Thread starter Thread starter don_gibb6512
  • Start date Start date
D

don_gibb6512

Guest
Stator test:

Red lead of MM to output wire/ Black lead to output wire @ 5K rpm = 64v across all three wires

Ohm reading across all 3 pairs = .4 ohm

Ohm reading across 2 wires to engine casing = .4 ohm
Ohm reading across 1 wire to engine casing = .3 ohm

Looked, can't see anywhere that the wires from the stator are crimped, bad, nothing.

Don
 
Nope. 64V AC right ? Why do you ask ? Charging issues ? What is the DC charging voltage at the battery at or above 2k RPMs ?
 
The video is a good idea. The DC V output at the battery was 12.8v at 5k rpms. The RR had a burnt spade connector to ground and the tests on it were indicative of a failed RR. Because of the readings I got was why I asked about the stator in the first place. I don't understand it either. It would seem that there is some kind of failure in the wiring to ground on the stator that would cause the Ohm readings to be the way they are but I'll be damned if I can find it.

EDIT NOTE: I apologize on my typo. This should have been 12.08v @ 5k rpms, not the original post of 12.8v.

It's an Electrosport stator, if that means anything.

Yes, it was 64v AC across the stator wires.

I'm using a Radio Shack 23 range LCD Digital Multimeter and to the best of my knowledge, I'm using it correctly.

I ran these tests 3 times to be sure I was consistent on the readings.

Thanks Would you replace this stator?

Don
 
Last edited:
don_gibb6512 said:
The RR had a burnt spade connector to ground and the tests on it were indicative of a failed RR.

Thanks Would you replace this stator?

Don
Click to expand...
No. I would cut out those RR connectors. Replace them with some quality splices and try it again. Run a dedicated ground wire from the RR right to the - battery. If that dont work I would send a PM to Duane for a new RR.
 
Last edited:
don_gibb6512 said:
The video is a good idea. The DC V output at the battery was 12.8v at 5k rpms. The RR had a burnt spade connector to ground and the tests on it were indicative of a failed RR. Because of the readings I got was why I asked about the stator in the first place. I don't understand it either. It would seem that there is some kind of failure in the wiring to ground on the stator that would cause the Ohm readings to be the way they are but I'll be damned if I can find it.

It's an Electrosport stator, if that means anything.

Yes, it was 64v AC across the stator wires.

I'm using a Radio Shack 23 range LCD Digital Multimeter and to the best of my knowledge, I'm using it correctly.

I ran these tests 3 times to be sure I was consistent on the readings.

Thanks Would you replace this stator?

Don
Click to expand...

U are measuring resistance between the legs to ground when the stator wires are open right?

12.8 at 5K RPM is doing something.

Could you please do a Quick Test?

Want to just get a feel for how the charging is working? Do a Quick_Test
Click to expand...
 
Sending Duane the $ for a new RR tomorrow. I'm redoing ALL connectors in this circuit. What bites is that I did that the LAST time. Bought a Klein crimper, used dielectric grease and soldered the connections that didn't HAVE to be removed to do testing. Used new wire, new connectors, tried to do everything right and yet this still happened. ARGH!!! The Stator papers say that the ohm readings across the pairs on the stator should be .5-2v but mine was .4 and the ohm reading from the wires to ground are bad if it reads anything between 0-100 ohm. Since mine are .4 and mostly .4 on the wire to ground, I assumed that the stator was bad. Is this not the case? What does that say about the Stator paper results then? I'm confused.

Don

Going to bed. Gonna shoot pool tomorrow night and do something that I'm actually good at. Cheers.
 
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don_gibb6512 said:
Sending Duane the $ for a new RR tomorrow. I'm redoing ALL connectors in this circuit. What bites is that I did that the LAST time. Bought a Klein crimper, used dielectric grease and soldered the connections that didn't HAVE to be removed to do testing. Used new wire, new connectors, tried to do everything right and yet this still happened. ARGH!!! The Stator papers say that the ohm readings across the pairs on the stator should be .5-2v but mine was .4 and the ohm reading from the wires to ground are bad if it reads anything between 0-100 ohm. Since mine are .4 and mostly .4 on the wire to ground, I assumed that the stator was bad. Is this not the case? What does that say about the Stator paper results then? I'm confused.

Don

Going to bed. Gonna shoot pool tomorrow night and do something that I'm actually good at. Cheers.
Click to expand...

There are two methods of wiring a stator Delta and Y.

I'll say this maybe there is an issue. :o

If your stator is wired in a Y configuration it is possible for it to be grounded and still produce power. That is because the center of the Y is considered a neutral and even though it is generally left floating, maybe it is being grounded as part of the way the stator is wound.

The GS1100E manual shows a Y configuration.

Maybe that part of the test should be removed as now I'm not certain if it allways applies especially in a Y configuration.
 
don_gibb6512 said:
Stator test:

Red lead of MM to output wire/ Black lead to output wire @ 5K rpm = 64v across all three wires

Don
Click to expand...


If you read any voltage (while running and unplugged) from stator wires to ground (casing) buy a new stator.
 
posplayr said:
sorry his reading are fine; check the manual if you don't believe me.
Click to expand...

Just check factory manual and the readings below are not in there. This is a ground in the stator halfway thru one coil. Should be tested while running to conform. If he doesn’t want to do a running test, don’t.:rolleyes:
Ohm reading across 2 wires to engine casing = .4 ohm
Ohm reading across 1 wire to engine casing = .3 ohm
 
Graham said:
Just check factory manual and the readings below are not in there. This is a ground in the stator halfway thru one coil. Should be tested while running to conform. If he doesn?t want to do a running test, don?t.:rolleyes:
Ohm reading across 2 wires to engine casing = .4 ohm
Ohm reading across 1 wire to engine casing = .3 ohm
Click to expand...


>>>>If you read any voltage (while running and unplugged) from stator wires to ground (casing) buy a new stator.


I'm taking about this statement you made above. Yes the issue of stator shorts to ground is being discussed and I raised the possibility that it is Y configuration stators.
 
posplayr said:
>>>>If you read any voltage (while running and unplugged) from stator wires to ground (casing) buy a new stator.


I'm taking about this statement you made above. Yes the issue of stator shorts to ground is being discussed and I raised the possibility that it is Y configuration stators.
Click to expand...

It is a Y (wye) configuration. And it will put out AC power from wire to wire if not plugged in to the regulator. My point is a ohmmeter isn?t the best way to check windings, ohmmeter could read metal filled oily residue or moister. Voltmeter won?t lie on a running test. I?m done.
 
Graham said:
It is a Y (wye) configuration. And it will put out AC power from wire to wire if not plugged in to the regulator. My point is a ohmmeter isn?t the best way to check windings, ohmmeter could read metal filled oily residue or moister. Voltmeter won?t lie on a running test. I?m done.
Click to expand...

I agree, trying to measure 0.5 ohms with $10 ohm meters and dirty connections is none to good. Also it is hard to mistake 60-80 VAC.
 
Graham said:
It is a Y (wye) configuration. And it will put out AC power from wire to wire if not plugged in to the regulator.
Click to expand...

Um, that's what the stator is for, to make AC voltage. With or without a regulator, it's making voltage if the rotor is spinning... Why would this make the stator bad?

Should be about 60 or 70 or so volts AC if the stator is disconnected.
 
tkent02 said:
Um, that's what the stator is for, to make AC voltage. With or without a regulator, it's making voltage if the rotor is spinning... Why would this make the stator bad?

Should be about 60 or 70 or so volts AC if the stator is disconnected.
Click to expand...

Plugged in and key off could drain battery over time. Running, maybe burn up regulator, under/over charge battery and burn up ignitor box.
 
Graham said:
Plugged in and key off could drain battery over time. Running, maybe burn up regulator, under/over charge battery and burn up ignitor box.
Click to expand...

In theory there are three blocking diodes (standard SHUNT R/R) with cathodes attached to the Red R/R output (+) so no current can flow into that point (the diodes block current flow) so there is no place for current to drain into or through the R/R unless one of those diodes is shorted.
 
Three phase ac circuits- what a fun topic ( Google Tesla for fun!). Anyways, yes delta or wye is possible; delta produces less voltage, but more current- but power ouput is the same. P= 1.73 VI where V is voltage between any two legs and I is current coming out of any leg. It appears that to get a decent voltage output (at low speeds), most charging systems would be wye connected, assuming a non-variable revolving field (plain old magnets).When I replaced my stator in August- it had shorted to ground producing little output- It was wye wound. Breaking the wye, one stator winding was shorted to ground. The other stators I have are also wye wound. I did not replace my r/r- it had not been affected by stator failure.
Maybe, some of the windings being done these days are different (or plain wrong). More thought needed on how shorted to ground stators can produce decent charging output- I hope everyone is using multimeters correctly!
 
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