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would you replace a stator with these readings?

  • Thread starter Thread starter don_gibb6512
  • Start date Start date
I was worried we wouldn't make it to 100 replies!
Lots of the new cheapo multimeters measure ac current to 10 or 20 amps just like dc current readings- sticking the probes between the current path.( Most likely, the reading is based on 60 cycle,so I don't know how accurate it will be at 10 times that frequency.) I think That I would only do this test as a last resort.
 
tom203 said:
I was worried we wouldn't make it to 100 replies!
Lots of the new cheapo multimeters measure ac current to 10 or 20 amps just like dc current readings- sticking the probes between the current path.( Most likely, the reading is based on 60 cycle,so I don't know how accurate it will be at 10 times that frequency.) I think That I would only do this test as a last resort.
Click to expand...

For an 18 pole stator (IIRC) the frequency is at RPM/10.
So 5000 RPM is 500 Hz AC. Reading of AC when designed for 60 hz is probably a crap shoot as it is undefined.
 
meters.jpg


These are the current meters I use. The 60amp meter terminates in a BNC connector for scopes, a BNC to bannana clip converter is needed.

The 60amp one is about 300.00 and the 200/2000 amp one is about 180.00
 
raistian77 said:
meters.jpg


These are the current meters I use. The 60amp meter terminates in a BNC connector for scopes, a BNC to bannana clip converter is needed.

The 60amp one is about 300.00 and the 200/2000 amp one is about 180.00
Click to expand...


Have you ever tried to measure the stator current and current balance?
 
posplayr said:
For an 18 pole stator (IIRC) the frequency is at RPM/10.
So 5000 RPM is 500 Hz AC. Reading of AC when designed for 60 hz is probably a crap shoot as it is undefined.
Click to expand...

But the error of the crap shoot would be even on all the wires right? We don't really care about the exact voltage, just that they are even? Wouldn't even need to be very precise at all, we are only looking for large differences?
 
tkent02 said:
But the error of the crap shoot would be even on all the wires right? We don't really care about the exact voltage, just that they are even? Wouldn't even need to be very precise at all, we are only looking for large differences?
Click to expand...

that is the only hope, but when the meter performance is undefined (at 10X the upper frequency spec), you would just have to test it on a known bad to see if you get something reasonable.
 
Here's some pics of the damage to the generator rotor. What if any problems will this cause? I really don't want to have to try to find a replacement rotor. The new Electrosport stator has changed from years past. It's now wound with aluminum wire instead of copper and they no longer include the grommet attached to the wires. Getting the old wires out of the old grommet and inserting the new wires through those tiny holes is a PITA to say the least. Forgot to add that the Ohm tests on the new Electrosport are .7 across the wires and nothing to ground. :-)
 
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don_gibb6512 said:
Here's some pics of the damage to the generator rotor. What if any problems will this cause? I really don't want to have to try to find a replacement rotor. The new Electrosport stator has changed from years past. It's now wound with aluminum wire instead of copper and they no longer include the grommet attached to the wires. Getting the old wires out of the old grommet and inserting the new wires through those tiny holes is a PITA to say the least.
Click to expand...
Are you sure about the aluminum wire instead of copper, cuz it makes no sense? Looking at your rotor and recalling your stator pics, I think you should find a replacement rotor- unless you plan on not traveling too far from home when you ride. I forgot what bike this is, but rotors come up all the time on ebay. Did you locate anything that might have caused this damage?
 
tom203 said:
Are you sure about the aluminum wire instead of copper, cuz it makes no sense? Looking at your rotor and recalling your stator pics, I think you should find a replacement rotor- unless you plan on not traveling too far from home when you ride. I forgot what bike this is, but rotors come up all the time on ebay. Did you locate anything that might have caused this damage?
Click to expand...

EDIT: I was 100% WRONG in this statement and I apologize. The wires are tinned.

Yeah, 100% sure about the wire. It's aluminum. It's a 1980 GS1100ET. There was nothing in the rotor or the stator cover. Very puzzling. Considering the isolation of the damage, I'm leaning toward the poles being higher than they should have been.

What would the outcome be of running it with the rotor the way it is?

Thanks.
 
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don_gibb6512 said:
Yeah, 100% sure about the wire. It's aluminum. It's a 1980 GS1100ET. There was nothing in the rotor or the stator cover. Very puzzling. Considering the isolation of the damage, I'm leaning toward the poles being higher than they should have been.

What would the outcome be of running it with the rotor the way it is?

Thanks.
Click to expand...

The question is did the damage demagnetize the rotor? Put a piece of steel next to the 6 section and see if they still have a strong pull. If so it is probably OK.
 
posplayr said:
The question is did the damage demagnetize the rotor? Put a piece of steel next to the 6 section and see if they still have a strong pull. If so it is probably OK.
Click to expand...

Excellent suggestion!! Yes!! It's still magnetized. Thanks Jim.
 
don_gibb6512 said:
Yeah, 100% sure about the wire. It's aluminum. It's a 1980 GS1100ET. There was nothing in the rotor or the stator cover. Very puzzling. Considering the isolation of the damage, I'm leaning toward the poles being higher than they should have been.

What would the outcome be of running it with the rotor the way it is?

Thanks.
Click to expand...
Hmmm! aluminum has 60% higher expansion than steel poles it's wrapped around ( copper has 20% more than steel).
Aluminum has poorer heat conductivity than copper and then there's the problems of joining the wire ends to a different material -wires leaving stator. Does anyone remember the aluminum house wiring fiasco about 25 years ago?
I knew there was a reason why I just scooped two old stators off ebay- I'll take my chances with them!
 
Got my old stator out. How do I tell if it's wound as a Delta or a Y configuration?
 
081dbx64 said:
Got my old stator out. How do I tell if it's wound as a Delta or a Y configuration?
Click to expand...

You will probably find that your stator is not perfectly round. The wear on your magnets would enlarge the airgap between the poles and the magnets and result in lower voltage, but you may be OK. Only testing will determine that properly. A good used replacement should be easy to find.

I would suggest replacing the stator with a new one or rewinding a good core. Have a look here how it is done and what the difference is between the Wye and Delta stators:http://www.mediafire.com/?jm3lzukjzyt
Hope it helps.
 
Don, please tell us what convinced you that the wire is aluminum? I looked for magnet wire this spring, and 100% of what I found was copper, although I found it in many colors, including silver.
I'm not trying to be argumentative, but I am really curious about this.
Thanks.
 
081dbx64 said:
Got my old stator out. How do I tell if it's wound as a Delta or a Y configuration?
Click to expand...
Look at this pic from another post- ignoring the wires that depart the stator, look for 3 stator wires that are attached together, this would be wye wound.(It might be buried under the other connections). So far all I've seen is wye wound on old stators.
 
koolaid_kid said:
Don, please tell us what convinced you that the wire is aluminum? I looked for magnet wire this spring, and 100% of what I found was copper, although I found it in many colors, including silver.
I'm not trying to be argumentative, but I am really curious about this.
Thanks.
Click to expand...

I assumed because they were silver that it was aluminum. I never knew that copper would be any other color than, well copper. There was also no draw to a magnet from the wire so that also led me to believe it was aluminum. Do you have any suggestions on how I can test to determine exactly what type of wire it is?

Thanks for the input.

Don
 
don_gibb6512 said:
I assumed because they were silver that it was aluminum. I never knew that copper would be any other color than, well copper. There was also no draw to a magnet from the wire so that also led me to believe it was aluminum. Do you have any suggestions on how I can test to determine exactly what type of wire it is?

Thanks for the input.

Don
Click to expand...
No need to test- it's copper, cuz anything else is silly. My faith in science is restored! more beer to celebrate.
 
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