Yoshimura GSX1135R (EFE) Project

[DMorris]

I think he is running an automotive recording tach and shift light.

 

[Colin Green]

Looks great (except for that duct taped seat) I kinda like the simple primer gray look. It draws more attention to the go-fast bits

What he said.

I have been thinking the same thing and watching this thread has made me rethink my ideas on and plans for my own similar project (code name Baz). Maybe a couple of passive but contrasting colours to keep it simple.

I really like the clean lines of this bike and love the flat sheet that Mindless fabricated to tidy up the underside of the tail section. I think a hugger would/could look cool... in a toned down bling sorta way

 

[Mindless]

Looks great (except for that duct taped seat) I kinda like the simple primer gray look. It draws more attention to the go-fast bits

One question though: Whats the little black cylinder with the red lens nest to the tach? It looks cool, but whats it do?

I kinda dig the duct taped seat.

Looks like a shift light to me....

Right you are, and yes, it's originally intended for automotive use.

Wanted to get a real AutoMeter for bike-use but they cost a fortune and don't show high-enough RPMs for an inline-four (need at least 10000rpm). This one is a dirt-cheap China replica. Originally intended to use a different tacho but it was sold out so I had to settle for this one.

Might be the only compromise I've done so far on the bike.

What he said.

I have been thinking the same thing and watching this thread has made me rethink my ideas on and plans for my own similar project (code name Baz). Maybe a couple of passive but contrasting colours to keep it simple.

I really like the clean lines of this bike and love the flat sheet that Mindless fabricated to tidy up the underside of the tail section. I think a hugger would/could look cool... in a toned down bling sorta way

I also like grey primer, but with the time spent on the rest of the bike I think it deserves a proper paintjob. Haven't decided when that will happen though. Want to get it street legal first so I can actually drive it.

Anyway, off to make the final brackets for the headlight. I'll try and get some photos up later.

 

[Tim Tom]

Want to get it street legal first so I can actually drive it.

Right, you still need things like lights and mirrors! I've gotten used to looking your build, and sorta forgot you needed them still :lol:

 

[Mindless]

Right, you still need things like lights and mirrors! I've gotten used to looking your build, and sorta forgot you needed them still :lol:

Same here. I kinda wish I didn't need them...

I take it out for a small breather sometimes even though I'm not supposed to. Don't tell anyone. :-$

Headlight brackets all fabbed up. Now all I need is some brackets for the gauges and winkers.

I quite like the stance of the bike when it's down on the ground.

Should have it road legal in a few weeks time. Note: should.

Also got a slight surprise coming up in a couple of weeks.

 

[Greg B]

Motoren din ser herlig ut!

 

[wacky941]

You know, that would actually look great if you had the seat upholstered in the silver/gray color for real without the tape.

Nice bike!

 

[Mindless]

Motoren din ser herlig ut!

G?r fint ocks?.

You know, that would actually look great if you had the seat upholstered in the silver/gray color for real without the tape.

Nice bike!

Will probably get it upholstered with a two-tone alcantara / leather mix. Grey where I sit and black for the would-be passenger.

 

[Mindless]

Been a while since I posted something new. Well, this arrived in the mail today so I better post some pictures.

First up four lovely lumps of forged aluminium (not to be confused with ALUMINUM).

These will upgrade the powerhouse to 1230cc and 10.25:1 compression. Should be able to squeeze out another 10 horsepower with that.

And last but not least; a MRE lock-up clutch.

Expecting the remaining parts from APE next week so then I'll get cracking on splitting the engine apart and fitting all the new goodies then. Will be dropping of the cylinder block to be bored at the end of the month.

 

[posplayr]

Wow, you are getting serious. What are the plans for the head to up the flow rate?

 

[Mindless]

Wow, you are getting serious. What are the plans for the head to up the flow rate?

Haha, I guess. Shooting to get out something like 140-145bhp out of the 1230cc in the end.

Ordered a complete Dyna 2000 ignition through a friend with some connections the other day. Should be arriving in a few weeks. Haven't seen anything from APE yet but supposedly the package is on it's way... :|

As for the head: no oversized valves or stuff like that yet but I'm probably going to talk with a local fella about doing some head work to make it breathe a bit better to complement the extra cc's. But it's expensive extra HPs... that's for sure.

Gonna go hunt for a painter tomorrow as well. :-\\\

 

[posplayr]

Not sure what you are looking for but I'm sure there will plenty more torque with that 1230 coming from an 1133 and it is probably closer to 160 hp.

I would at least get your stock 1150 valves backcut and radius valve job as that is relatively cheap and anybody experienced can do some basic cleanup and improve the flow. I would be careful with anybody taking too much off without a flow bench though.

If you want to do more go up in size in stainless. For alot less money you can put a GSXR 750 head on you get bigger cams and bigger flow all for under $300. Just depends on what you want.

I'm lucky I got a nice street head from Terry.

A.) is to do go 1mm oversize on the intake to 28mm (same as the stock 1150 valves)

B.) If stock valves (1100/1150 23 mm exhaust and 28mm 1150 intake) then get them backcut or buy new stainless steel valves that don't need back cutting.

C.) Get a modern radius cut valve job on your seats using a Serdi

http://www.aperaceparts.com/headwork.html


D.) Minor clean up porting to smooth the area where the seat were opened up for the 28mm valves.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=137631

 

[Mindless]

Not sure what you are looking for but I'm sure there will plenty more torque with that 1230 coming from an 1133 and it is probably closer to 160 hp.

I would at least get your stock 1150 valves backcut and radius valve job as that is relatively cheap and anybody experienced can do some basic cleanup and improve the flow. I would be careful with anybody taking too much off without a flow bench though.

If you want to do more go up in size in stainless. For alot less money you can put a GSXR 750 head on you get bigger cams and bigger flow all for under $300. Just depends on what you want.

I'm lucky I got a nice street head from Terry.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=137631

I was talking more in terms of rear wheel horsepower. I have 125 at the wheel now so I'm probably around 140-150hp at the crank if you factor a 10-15% power loss through the gearbox and chain.

The local fella who does headwork has been doing head work since the late 70's so he's probably as experienced as one gets when it comes to these things. In short - he's as good as it gets. I'll be asking him for advice when the time comes. He has built plenty of race heads over the years.

 

[posplayr]

I was talking more in terms of rear wheel horsepower. I have 125 at the wheel now so I'm probably around 140-150hp at the crank if you factor a 10-15% power loss through the gearbox and chain.

.

I got a little corn fused; I'm guessing 140-150 hp at the crank for stock 1150 with cams and carbs is a little high (see various comments in the previous link). And I think Bill was figuring 160 hp at the crank with 1230, 0.340's , CV 36mm but with some head work and 28.5 mm intakes valves

 

[Mindless]

I got a little corn fused; I'm guessing 140-150 hp at the crank for stock 1150 with cams and carbs is a little high (see various comments in the previous link). And I think Bill was figuring 160 hp at the crank with 1230, 0.340's , CV 36mm but with some head work and 28.5 mm intakes valves

Well I'd say there's around 140hp at the crank since I'm getting 125 at the wheel. But as you say - I can expect a bit more with 100 more cc's and some head work.

And maybe the carbs will "scale" better with the larger displacement engine and as such produce a wee more horsies.

Or am I being overly optimistic? :-\\\

 

[posplayr]

Well I'd say there's around 140hp at the crank since I'm getting 125 at the wheel. But as you say - I can expect a bit more with 100 more cc's and some head work.

And maybe the carbs will "scale" better with the larger displacement engine and as such produce a wee more horsies.

Or am I being overly optimistic? :-\\\

Chp - crank hp
RWhp - rear wheel hp

A few people have reported dyno results for stock 1100's that have come in at about 92 RWhp. If you compare that to 108 Chp for the 80-82's you get

85.2% = 92/108


Using a 85.2% factor you would need 164 to 170 Chp to get 140-145 RWhp

That seems high 33%-37% above stock to get there. Bill is hearing 160 Chp from his 1230 but not sure what additional cams/carbs to get there.

In contrast I'm assuming 135-140 Chp with my 1166 but I do have more head work.

Shooting to get out something like 140-145bhp out of the 1230cc in the end.

Did you do a dyno run?

I have 125 at the wheel now so I'm probably around 140-150hp at the crank if you factor a 10-15% power loss through the gearbox and chain.

 

[Mindless]

Chp - crank hp
RWhp - rear wheel hp

A few people have reported dyno results for stock 1100's that have come in at about 92 RWhp. If you compare that to 108 Chp for the 80-82's you get

85.2% = 92/108


Using a 85.2% factor you would need 164 to 170 Chp to get 140-145 RWhp

That seems high 33%-37% above stock to get there. Bill is hearing 160 Chp from his 1230 but not sure what additional cams/carbs to get there.

In contrast I'm assuming 135-140 Chp with my 1166 but I do have more head work.

Did you do a dyno run?

Dunno what my '84 delivered before I fixed it up but it probably wasn't much. Stock camshafts on the Swedish models had very low lift I believe the duration is different too so it looses pretty much all power at 7000rpm. The inlet rubbers are choked as well (smaller inner diameter). A few valves didn't seal properly either so that's even more power loss. I'd expect around 90-95 at the crank because 100hp was the maximum allowed power back in '84 (over here that is) and the engine has done over 60000 miles. On the following years of the 1150, the restrictions were removed.

With the new camshafts, grinding in the valves a bit, new valvesprings and seals as well as the FCR39 carbs I got 125hp at the rear wheel on the Dyno. Pictorial proof supplied below.

Lets say we have a 15% powerloss then that would mean:

125.51 x 1.15 = 144.33chp

So 144'ish horsepower at the crank.

Of course this is just a rule of thumb and it's probably less than that. But with the new Dyna 2000 ignition system, the higher compression 1230cc piston kit and some head work I don't think 140-145rwhp should be unachievable.

 

[posplayr]

Dunno what my '84 delivered before I fixed it up but it probably wasn't much. Stock camshafts on the Swedish models had very low lift I believe the duration is different too so it looses pretty much all power at 7000rpm. The inlet rubbers are choked as well (smaller inner diameter). A few valves didn't seal properly either so that's even more power loss. I'd expect around 90-95 at the crank because 100hp was the maximum allowed power back in '84 (over here that is) and the engine has done over 60000 miles. On the following years of the 1150, the restrictions were removed.

With the new camshafts, grinding in the valves a bit, new valvesprings and seals as well as the FCR39 carbs I got 125hp at the rear wheel on the Dyno. Pictorial proof supplied below.

Lets say we have a 15% powerloss then that would mean:

125.51 x 1.15 = 144.33chp

So 144'ish horsepower at the crank.

Of course this is just a rule of thumb and it's probably less than that. But with the new Dyna 2000 ignition system, the higher compression 1230cc piston kit and some head work I don't think 140-145rwhp should be unachievable.

I guess I was not adequately accounting for those FCR39 carbs. You also have the 0.348"?

I guess I need to get my slingshot carbies going , I'm still running 36mm CV's

 

[Mindless]

I guess I was not adequately accounting for those FCR39 carbs. You also have the 0.348"?

I guess I need to get my slingshot carbies going , I'm still running 36mm CV's

But the 39's are probably a bit overdimensioned for the current 1135cc and standard head. As for the cams: yes, I'm running the .348" lift cams. Set to 108 degrees at both IN and EX.

I can probably gain a couple of horsepower on the exhaust as well. 60mm inner diameter only gives a big sound, not optimal power. Downpipes probably could be better as well. Gonna see about ordering a new exhaust by the end of the month. I'll probably go for a 4-2-1 GSXR exhaust if I can find a decent one.

 

[posplayr]

But the 39's are probably a bit overdimensioned for the current 1135cc and standard head. As for the cams: yes, I'm running the .348" lift cams. Set to 108 degrees at both IN and EX.

I can probably gain a couple of horsepower on the exhaust as well. 60mm inner diameter only gives a big sound, not optimal power. Downpipes probably could be better as well. Gonna see about ordering a new exhaust by the end of the month. I'll probably go for a 4-2-1 GSXR exhaust if I can find a decent one.

I'm very happy with my ebay Yoshi 4:2:1 (2nd gen GSXR 1100). A very noticeabel improvement in mid range.

There are apparently some Hindle 1st Gen 4:2:1's floating around in Europe. A dealler bought up the rest of the CLOSEOUT stock (they were $299 for header mid).