Tscu rebuilding

[chuck hahn]

I have been using search feature and looking for info about rebuilding the TSCU. Has anyone here tried to unravel the secrets? I dont particularly care if it self cancells or not. The thing is that for some reason the right side always quits working. I got one from Sedelen a while back and it worked to make both sides flash...now it has also failed on the right side. I took the one out of the Cooley and plugged it in and that unit functions on both sides so i know its the TSCU in the skunk that has lost its right side...again.

 

[Stahlgrau333]

I think I left my old non-functioning POS there...if you throw it in that box 'o stuff, I'll take it apart and see if I can reverse-engineer it.

 

[chuck hahn]

Yeah its out in the garage..somewhere.

 

[rustybronco]

I think I left my old non-functioning POS there...if you throw it in that box 'o stuff, I'll take it apart and see if I can reverse-engineer it.

It's potted.

I've one apart right now almost completely un-potted. be careful, the caps like to blow apart when you heat up the potting material.

 

[chuck hahn]

Dale..It seems to me that the switch sends the connection thru the same plug for each side..IF i am remembering right its the 6 pin one. So whats the 4 pin one for? Can the cicuitry be reroputed and make both function but just not have the self cancelling. Do an endo and bypass that inside the box?

 

[Wallowgreen]

They're a pain in the arse to reverse engineer, they're potted against the elements so all you'll see at first is the wiring dissappearing into a container full of goop.

The same thing happened on my '79 but I had the luxury of sitting down and designing and building my own around a small Motorola uP. Noise in the system was the worst problem causing false triggers, the wiring from the switch on the handlebar typically runs right through where all the high voltage switching's going on at the coils. Not insurmountable but took a while to figure out though. I have one of mine on the 850 now, have had for a couple of years. I have it switched to manual but it does work with the original momentary non-latching switch and plugs directly into the OEM connectors from the harness so no modifications necessary. Plug and play as they say. I intended to make a few and sell them on at cost but cost wound up being something like $150 so didn't seem that viable in the end, especially as I'd have to provide some kind of support if they went wrong etc. Made mine with sample parts (another luxury of mine I guess) so only cost me for the box, circuit board and the development suite for the firmware to run on the uP, bout $35 in all I think.

I assume you're talking about the early version (ref the skunk) with 10 wires coming out of it to two plugs, one with 6 wires and the other with 4 wires. These were not fail safe. The later version from '80 onwards only has one plug to the harness and is fail safe so if they go belly up, just disconnect them from the harness and hey presto you have fully manual control.

Hope that bit of waffle helps in some way Chuck...

 

[Wallowgreen]

It's potted.

I've one apart right now almost completely un-potted. be careful, the caps like to blow apart when you heat up the potting material.

Beat me to it again...

 

[Wallowgreen]

Dale..It seems to me that the switch sends the connection thru the same plug for each side..IF i am remembering right its the 6 pin one. So whats the 4 pin one for? Can the cicuitry be reroputed and make both function but just not have the self cancelling. Do an endo and bypass that inside the box?

No. Doesn't work that way in the early version.

There's a couple of relays (I presume) in them that makes the connection from flasher to light pair and no way to statically connect something that needs to change dynamically. Without some rewiring and switch changes etc.

Later version uses the switch to route from the flasher to the light pair and the controller has a "disable" signal it sends to the flasher unit to provide the auto cancel feature.

 

[chuck hahn]

I would GLADLY send you 150.00 to have it rebuilt so that both flashed reliably. I always flick my thumb down anyways so the self cancelling thing is of no importance to me.

 

[rustybronco]

Martin, if those units cost around $150 to build, I think that's going to be a deal breaker for most people.

it might be best to build a few 'replacements' out of latching relays instead.

 

[Wallowgreen]

I would GLADLY send you 150.00 to have it rebuilt so that both flashed reliably. I always flick my thumb down anyways so the self cancelling thing is of no importance to me.

Never had a problem with mine.... yet!

 

[chuck hahn]

And Martin..yes its the 10 wire..4 pin/6 pin connector style.

 

[chuck hahn]

Which??? the original or one youve rebuilt???

 

[Wallowgreen]

Martin, if those units cost around $150 to build, I think that's going to be a deal breaker for most people.

it might be best to build a few 'replacements' out of latching relays instead.

I figured exactly the same thing Dale, that's why I never went any further with it.

 

[Wallowgreen]

Which??? the original or one youve rebuilt???

The one I built. NOT a rebuild, nothing of the original left.

 

[cal_look_zero]

Not to threadjack, but I went around the TSCU and spent less than $10. Manual cancelling, but at least I have reliable blinkers...

 

[Wallowgreen]

Not to threadjack, but I went around the TSCU and spent less than $10. Manual cancelling, but at least I have reliable blinkers...

Sounds just like what he's after, pray tell him how to do it!

 

[chuck hahn]

Well seeing that i can get a truckload of chickens teeth easier than i can get a working TSCU and the fact that they are obsolete. I think that if someone can rebuild these even at say 100.00 or so its still a bargain.

 

[chuck hahn]

Yes tell us ALL how, its done and maybe post a wiring bypassing diagram..

 

[cal_look_zero]

Working on it as we speak.