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Tscu rebuilding

blinkers.jpg


And my switch self centers, so I had to eliminate that by removing this spring...

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Basically, you cut off the end of the 4 pin plug, put female connectors on all 4 wires and attach them to the relays as indicated. The 6 pin connector can be taped over and zip tied out of the way.

I'm running all LED signals and they don't flash brightly unless the bike is running. Not sure how it will work with regular bulbs, but I have resistors on my signals to simulate an incandescent draw, so it should be ok.
 
Personally, I have always despised the self cancelling turn signals. I had one on my XS650E and it would cancel long before it needed to. It had both a timer and a distance calculator, and it would cancel while I was sitting in the turn lane in Dallas. The GS worked when I got it; it broke during a Fenimore rally. I never bothered to replace it even though Cycle Recycle probably has one. I don't miss it a bit. I only had 2 bikes that had them (out of +15) and I disagreed with the settings on both of them.
 
So "X" is the 4 wire FROM the wiring harness and "L" is the 4 wire from the TSCU...Correct??
 
No, X and L are marked on the flasher body near the terminals and indicate supply (X) and load (L). You completely remove the TSCU and use just the 4 pin plug. I'll snap a couple of real pictures when I get off work tonight.

The black/green and blue/black are the power supplies and the green (solid) and black (solid) are the feeders to the signals themselves. You can touch the wires together after you clip the plug off to see what goes where.
 
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I may take one apart and just use two small square ones from Autozone and hide them inside the emptied TSCU case..works and still "LOOKS" stock. Long as they flash on each side and stay reliable is all thats really needed. So may i ask what the 6 pin plug is for??
 
If he says to just wrap and disconnect the 6 pin then i guess its really irrelivent to what i need to accomplish..I was just curious.
 
Was thinking last night, if there was some way to wire in the second generation TSCU, that would be a blessing as they're reliable, fairly common, and not that expensive. A wiring diagram of the 1st and 2nd
would be a blessing and it would be easier to figure all that out, but all I can find is a block diagram depicting the unit.

Chuck, sorry the bad TSCU, Dale will take it from you to add to his mounting collection.
I may have another one that doesn't self cancel.
I've been searching for others out there but these things, bad or otherwise are getting hard to come by.
 
I have the one that Stahgrau ( Matt ) left here a few weeks ago that does nothing on either side. I am gonna open up the case and use the 4 wires and plug to wire in like was decribed earlier.. If this is a sucess i will stash them in to the box and seal it up. Ofcourse making it able to be reopened in case a flasher unit goes bad and needs replaced at some point.
 
Personally, I have always despised the self cancelling turn signals. I had one on my XS650E and it would cancel long before it needed to. It had both a timer and a distance calculator, and it would cancel while I was sitting in the turn lane in Dallas. The GS worked when I got it; it broke during a Fenimore rally. I never bothered to replace it even though Cycle Recycle probably has one. I don't miss it a bit. I only had 2 bikes that had them (out of +15) and I disagreed with the settings on both of them.
Well, Kid, I agree with part of what you are saying, but don't fully understand the rest. :o

Over the last 30 years, I have had 10 bikes with self-cancelling signals. ALL of them have worked (and these bikes have represented the four major Japanese brands). However, I also disagree with the "settings" on ALL of them. But, knowing what the parameters are will help you use them to your advantage. Virtually all of them have not stayed on for what I consider long enough when approaching a left (or right) turn, as I like to start the signal sequence before applying the brakes. This usually means that I have to restart the sequence once or twice before actually making the turn. It's a habit I have gotten into over the years and think nothing of it.

The other complaint I have about their operation parameters is that they stay on too long for a lane change. Usually five to seven flashes should suffice, but my Wing stays on for 10, the GS for 12 or 13 flashes. That means I have to cancel them manually. Again, something I have gotten into the habit of doing over the years.

Yeah, they are minor annoyances, but, after riding with some other people from time to time and seeing how signals are occasionally left on, I will put up with them (the annoyances, that is). The few times that I ride a bike without self-cancelling signals, I have to remind myself to check them after every turn.

.
 
Chuck, I checked and I'm sorry to say I don't have another one that I can
find, I'll keep looking though.
 
Well, Kid, I agree with part of what you are saying, but don't fully understand the rest. :o

Over the last 30 years, I have had 10 bikes with self-cancelling signals. ALL of them have worked (and these bikes have represented the four major Japanese brands). However, I also disagree with the "settings" on ALL of them. But, knowing what the parameters are will help you use them to your advantage. Virtually all of them have not stayed on for what I consider long enough when approaching a left (or right) turn, as I like to start the signal sequence before applying the brakes. This usually means that I have to restart the sequence once or twice before actually making the turn. It's a habit I have gotten into over the years and think nothing of it.

The other complaint I have about their operation parameters is that they stay on too long for a lane change. Usually five to seven flashes should suffice, but my Wing stays on for 10, the GS for 12 or 13 flashes. That means I have to cancel them manually. Again, something I have gotten into the habit of doing over the years.

Yeah, they are minor annoyances, but, after riding with some other people from time to time and seeing how signals are occasionally left on, I will put up with them (the annoyances, that is). The few times that I ride a bike without self-cancelling signals, I have to remind myself to check them after every turn.

.

I just wished I had one fully functional unit so I can complain about it.
 
Wow, I guess I'm just lucky that I don't have one and have to turn them off on my own every time, usually as soon as I straighten up the bike from the turn. Course they go on about the same distance beforehand as if I'm in the cage.
 
Chuck, I hope you do no mind a quick hijack.;)

If anyone has any interest in the later 1980 cancelling unit, I have quite a bit of detail and can start a new thread on that if wanted.:)
 
Steve, I think it is just what you are used to. Out of all the bikes I have owned, this is only the second one with self canceling signals, so I have been conditioned to turn it off manually. It's not a big deal to do, and I really disliked having to figure out whether it was going to cancel when I wanted it to or turn itself off before I was ready for it to. Now that it broke, I am back in full manual mode and happy as a clam. When I rode Brian's bike I was back in the "did it cancel?" mode and it was once again irritating. Al even lectured me on how they work because they were cancelling before I wanted them to cancel. Grrr.
 
Was thinking last night, if there was some way to wire in the second generation TSCU, that would be a blessing as they're reliable, fairly common, and not that expensive.

"Dale will take it from you to add to his mounting collection". :D
Steve, off hand you might be able to use it for the distance sensor and timer functions when used in conjunction with two latching relays, a N.C. relay and possibly a few diodes thrown in for good measure. just take the output for cancelling the '80's flasher and use it to open the N.C. relay.

I've a spare 80-up TSCU and I think I just may have a few spare leads to pilfer ;). then it could be connected up to the 78-79 models without having to cobble up the stock wiring harness.
 
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Andre if it can be fitted to the 78 1000 E i would like to get it...anyone else know if i can hook it into the skunk???
 
Chuck I don't know how far you have checked out your' unit. I had two fail, and it turned out to be a bad distance counter in the speedometer. When I unplugged the wires to the reed switch in the headlight housing, both units started working normally again when I tested them, except they are manual canceling without the counter.
 
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