G
GSX1000E
Guest
Offset studs locked (red loktite) into place? I too am curious as to the solution that is planned.
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Offset studs locked (red loktite) into place? I too am curious as to the solution that is planned.
R
Rensdw
Guest
Instead of trying to explain this in a foreign language, I will just make it and show it to you, how does that sound?
Instead of trying to explain this in a foreign language, I will just make it and show it to you, how does that sound?
By all means - please show us.
I just can't help thinking that if you are going to weld up 4 holes anyway, you might as well do 2 more and be sure it's going to work.
R
Rensdw
Guest
I won't weld any of them, the outer stud holes don't have to be moved, it's only a 1mm difference so I can overcome that with offset studs.
The four inner stud holes will be moved by screwing down fine threaded aluminum plugs, then re-drill the new holes in their correct position.
I'm not going to say that what you are planning to do will not work, but you are definitely increasing the chances of it failing by using plugs / loctite as opposed to just welding the holes shut and tapping new ones.
Remember - you are trying to create a high performance engine here. Any shortcomings in the design will make themselves known a lot quicker than with a stock engine.
R
Rensdw
Guest
You are completely right, this might not be something to expirement with.
I completely forgot abouy the barrel to crankshaft alignment so i have to change my plan anyway
You are completely right, this might not be something to expirement with.
I completely forgot abouy the barrel to crankshaft alignment so i have to change my plan anyway
If the early 400 is the same as the later 450/500, the barrel location on the cases is by dowels at the rear of the barrel which are independent of the studs...
The same misalignment of studs is found when mixing and matching Norton twin heads. Standard fix is slot the holes they pass through and spot face a recess where the bolt head or in this case top nut goes. Use a nice thick machined washer sitting in the recess to accept the load and it's done.
Can't help thinking it would have been a lot easier using a 450/500 bottom end...the GR bits fit on nicely.
The blocks are not the same height, & I don't think a shorter custom piston would have enough pin-to-ring-land height to overcome that, so a custom CNC aluminum base gasket spacer & 2 base gaskets (see Mekanix's thread) would be the only route. & although the GR head has a far superior combustion chamber, I'm not certain the bore spacings or head stud pattern is the same, particularly the head stud pattern (ask Mekanix).
I think your best bet is either to just get a gr650, as it has a far superior frame, a great engine, & a monoshock. Or try to modify a gs450 frame to accept the taller gr engine (A LOT OF TEDIOUS/SKILLED CUSTOM WORK).
Lastly, what my weird twisted brain is compelling me todo (a whole lotta work)... I wanted to build an ultralight stripped down GS twin with upgraded brakes/shocks/fork mods wider alloy rims/battery&starter delete/rearsets/2:1/89-00 GS500E carbs& modded engine so that I could have a 325lb-ish featherlight bike that is a breeze to throw around in the hills into the tightest of turns.
I've brainstormed that the best way to do that is by using a gs400/425 bottom, 425 jugs, gs400c/425/500 cams or megacycle cams ($$$). Then determine how much overbore the aluminum blocks can take to fit in gs1000/gs500/gs1100g/etc sleeves. The problem I'm seeing is that the gs400/425 roller bearing engines have a 60mm (or some sources say 60.02mm) stroke, & the gs500 has a stroke about 4mm shorter, where the 1000/1100e/1100g have a longer stroke by about 4 or 6 mm. I think you could have the longer sleeves cut down & the ring install taper re-cut. I have heard of people resleeving their 4cyl blocks so big that in a few areas, the steel sleeve was actually showing through on the outside in the thin areas between the fins. Not sure how durable this is.
The GS850 pistons or the Wiseco GS750-844 pistons will bore right into the gs400 for a high compression 449cc engine. This & major weight reduction is the easiest route by far, but a GR650 will still be faster & more highway capable & not a whole lot heavier.
Custom 71mm Wiseco or JE pistons will make it 475cc ("should" bore into a 425 block). Resleeving to a shortened gs1000 sleeves if they bore in alright could give you up to 74mm piston capacity, but I like to try & keep it to a 3mm ovrbore for more steel to promote better heat dissipation, although the wiseco setup goes 4mm over. I'm at 3mm over on gs850 sleeves now on the 920cc & that looked pretty thin (1mm wall left on sleeves, 4mm over would mean 0.5mm wall).
The gs1000 was 70mm stock, & the 2valve gs1100g & 4valve gs1100 tscc were 72mm stock.
Going 71mm or larger pistons would yield decreasing gains due to the head (mostly just gain low end torque after that, no HP gains), so total reworking of the head (bigger valves, good porting job) is necessary, as well as GS500 carbs.
I was going to consult Rapid Ray on these, as those twins are basically half of a gs750 but with longer stroke. he mostly does tscc 4 valve per cyl bikes, but is an invaluable wealth of performance engine build knowledge. Maybe he can do all the necessary machine work all well if I were to ship the engine to Cali.
Oh, also the crank & balance shaft need to be rebalanced after going big bore on these. A 425 to 69mm may be able to get away without (little more vibrations though), but bigger big bore, probably not a good idea.
I think your best bet is either to just get a gr650, as it has a far superior frame, a great engine, & a monoshock. Or try to modify a gs450 frame to accept the taller gr engine (A LOT OF TEDIOUS/SKILLED CUSTOM WORK).
Lastly, what my weird twisted brain is compelling me todo (a whole lotta work)... I wanted to build an ultralight stripped down GS twin with upgraded brakes/shocks/fork mods wider alloy rims/battery&starter delete/rearsets/2:1/89-00 GS500E carbs& modded engine so that I could have a 325lb-ish featherlight bike that is a breeze to throw around in the hills into the tightest of turns.
I've brainstormed that the best way to do that is by using a gs400/425 bottom, 425 jugs, gs400c/425/500 cams or megacycle cams ($$$). Then determine how much overbore the aluminum blocks can take to fit in gs1000/gs500/gs1100g/etc sleeves. The problem I'm seeing is that the gs400/425 roller bearing engines have a 60mm (or some sources say 60.02mm) stroke, & the gs500 has a stroke about 4mm shorter, where the 1000/1100e/1100g have a longer stroke by about 4 or 6 mm. I think you could have the longer sleeves cut down & the ring install taper re-cut. I have heard of people resleeving their 4cyl blocks so big that in a few areas, the steel sleeve was actually showing through on the outside in the thin areas between the fins. Not sure how durable this is.
The GS850 pistons or the Wiseco GS750-844 pistons will bore right into the gs400 for a high compression 449cc engine. This & major weight reduction is the easiest route by far, but a GR650 will still be faster & more highway capable & not a whole lot heavier.
Custom 71mm Wiseco or JE pistons will make it 475cc ("should" bore into a 425 block). Resleeving to a shortened gs1000 sleeves if they bore in alright could give you up to 74mm piston capacity, but I like to try & keep it to a 3mm ovrbore for more steel to promote better heat dissipation, although the wiseco setup goes 4mm over. I'm at 3mm over on gs850 sleeves now on the 920cc & that looked pretty thin (1mm wall left on sleeves, 4mm over would mean 0.5mm wall).
The gs1000 was 70mm stock, & the 2valve gs1100g & 4valve gs1100 tscc were 72mm stock.
Going 71mm or larger pistons would yield decreasing gains due to the head (mostly just gain low end torque after that, no HP gains), so total reworking of the head (bigger valves, good porting job) is necessary, as well as GS500 carbs.
I was going to consult Rapid Ray on these, as those twins are basically half of a gs750 but with longer stroke. he mostly does tscc 4 valve per cyl bikes, but is an invaluable wealth of performance engine build knowledge. Maybe he can do all the necessary machine work all well if I were to ship the engine to Cali.
Oh, also the crank & balance shaft need to be rebalanced after going big bore on these. A 425 to 69mm may be able to get away without (little more vibrations though), but bigger big bore, probably not a good idea.
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On the 77-79 crankcase/cylinders/head combo that I suggested above, I believe the displacements were as follows:
449cc - Wiseco 844cc 750 10.25:1 pistons
449cc - GS850 stock pistons (8.7:1, or mill the head and block to raise compression, then slot the cam sprockets to properly re-time the cams back to stock)
475cc - 71mm custom pistons, max overbore on GS425 sleeves
502cc - 73mm custom pistons in GS1000 sleeves bored +3mm o.s.
516cc - 74mm custom pistons in +4mm max overbore GS1000 sleeves
530cc - 75mm custom pistons in +3mm o.s. GS1100 sleeves
449cc - Wiseco 844cc 750 10.25:1 pistons
449cc - GS850 stock pistons (8.7:1, or mill the head and block to raise compression, then slot the cam sprockets to properly re-time the cams back to stock)
475cc - 71mm custom pistons, max overbore on GS425 sleeves
502cc - 73mm custom pistons in GS1000 sleeves bored +3mm o.s.
516cc - 74mm custom pistons in +4mm max overbore GS1000 sleeves
530cc - 75mm custom pistons in +3mm o.s. GS1100 sleeves
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Ren, was searching this morning on here for "GS400 Big Bore" and came across mentions of a build thread that got deleted, but it was determined that this guy had built up the best possible combo for a bolt on. It used the 1980+ plain bearing GS450 bottom, GS500 cylinders bored +3mm over to fit GR650 pistons, and used a GR650 head. This seems to me the absolute easiest mod to do once you have tracked down the GR650 parts. Basically a bolt on. Using GS500 pistons without the GS500 head would be a step backwards, however. It is always the absolute best to use pistons that were designed for the combustion chamber, and not mixing and matching. ESPECIALLY on a very excellent modern design combustion chamber shape as the GR650's TDCC head. Twin Dome Combustion Chamber. A similar setup as the more well known TSCC. The XN85 turbo 650 four cylinder also used the TDCC chambers.
The thread on that GS450/500/GR650 hybrid got deleted years ago, but there was a youtube video of the bike running that was mentioned on an existing thread on these forums. If you have already gotten the head, you can take all kinds of measurements and make a plaster mold (or body filler, rather) of the combustion chamber, and fill out some in depth forms with all sorts of specifications and measurements, and then have JE Pistons custom make you some pistons to fit the GR650 head. The will cost you about $400 I have heard, and I am not sure if that is with rings or without.
"GS527 Beast" by youtube user hemi500:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tQEVHd1cSyw
youtube user comment from our beloved franken-twin pioneer Mekanix:
BoreTech near Cincinnati, OH does piston coatings and does carbide cylinder wall embedding which makes the cylinders wear life about 400% longer
The thread on that GS450/500/GR650 hybrid got deleted years ago, but there was a youtube video of the bike running that was mentioned on an existing thread on these forums. If you have already gotten the head, you can take all kinds of measurements and make a plaster mold (or body filler, rather) of the combustion chamber, and fill out some in depth forms with all sorts of specifications and measurements, and then have JE Pistons custom make you some pistons to fit the GR650 head. The will cost you about $400 I have heard, and I am not sure if that is with rings or without.
"GS527 Beast" by youtube user hemi500:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tQEVHd1cSyw
youtube user comment from our beloved franken-twin pioneer Mekanix:
Steve Mekanix
2 years ago
This is a GS450 base, GS500 cylinder and head. GR650 pistons. Bore 77 Stroke 56.6 540cc is the max you can go on a stock 500cc block @78mm. After that you can use GR650 sleeves in the 500 block and push it to a max of 570cc's @80mm. The exhaust appears to be modified at the flanges to exit at an angle instead of straight. Very nice mod."
BoreTech near Cincinnati, OH does piston coatings and does carbide cylinder wall embedding which makes the cylinders wear life about 400% longer
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R
Rensdw
Guest
Thank you all for the replies, I'm sorry it took so long; we were kind of busy here at work.
I send the crankcase out to a professional welder and he advised me not to weld it, it softens and warps the aluminium too much.
So he made me some plugs and reworked the mating surface, and I re-drilled the holes.
Then all the holes were taped (M10 x 1.25), next time; I will do this with the mill, and not by hand.......
Cylinder Fits
Of course the crankcase and cylinder don't match up, I'm going too feed the oil to the head externally.
Head fits too
These Allen screws will be replaced by 45 degree AN fittings
There are four oil passages (from crankcase to head), all through the outer stud holes and they split up, one small passage goes to the camshaft bearing, and the bigger passage goes to the valve bucket cavity.
Because the GS400x crankcase had only two oil passages going up the cilinder only two out of four valves/bearings get lubricated.
My solution is to run external aluminium lines and bypass the studs altogether, an update on this will come soon.
Next step is to get all my calculations right; Static and dynamic CR, Rod length etc. and then send out my crankshaft for a nice overhaul and rod change.
Also I have to figure out what to do with the chain tensioner because none of them fit like how they are originally.
I send the crankcase out to a professional welder and he advised me not to weld it, it softens and warps the aluminium too much.
So he made me some plugs and reworked the mating surface, and I re-drilled the holes.
Then all the holes were taped (M10 x 1.25), next time; I will do this with the mill, and not by hand.......
Cylinder Fits
Of course the crankcase and cylinder don't match up, I'm going too feed the oil to the head externally.
Head fits too
These Allen screws will be replaced by 45 degree AN fittings
There are four oil passages (from crankcase to head), all through the outer stud holes and they split up, one small passage goes to the camshaft bearing, and the bigger passage goes to the valve bucket cavity.
Because the GS400x crankcase had only two oil passages going up the cilinder only two out of four valves/bearings get lubricated.
My solution is to run external aluminium lines and bypass the studs altogether, an update on this will come soon.
Next step is to get all my calculations right; Static and dynamic CR, Rod length etc. and then send out my crankshaft for a nice overhaul and rod change.
Also I have to figure out what to do with the chain tensioner because none of them fit like how they are originally.
R
Rensdw
Guest
I did some measurements today.
I saw some people on the net being sceptical about the gs400 60mm stroke, this confused me so I measured it; it really is 60mm
GR650 combustion chamber volume is 47CC.
GR650 Piston dome is 9.43CC
GR650 Piston pin to deck height is aprx. 18mm
GR650 Piston Wrist Pin is 18mm
GS400 Piston Wrist pin is 16mm
GS500 cilinder on GS400X bottom end without gaskets is aprx. 16mm wrist pin to cil. deck height.
The GR650 piston at 0 deck depth will be good for a CR of 8.4:1 with stock dome, so I will need custom pistons (Wiseco)
The new conrods need to be 1 to 1.5mm shorter, to get to 0 piston deck to cil. deck clearance I will need to play around with different gaskets.
Request for parts
Also I am looking for the GS500 oil pump drive gear, not the actual gear that is on the pump but the gear that drives the pump, there is one brand new on e-bay but it has to come from Israel.
The GS500 oil pump had a higher gear ratio which will help me to get the oil pressure up a little bit, I will be installing an adjustable oil bypass valve to set the pressure at a certain value.
I saw some people on the net being sceptical about the gs400 60mm stroke, this confused me so I measured it; it really is 60mm
GR650 combustion chamber volume is 47CC.
GR650 Piston dome is 9.43CC
GR650 Piston pin to deck height is aprx. 18mm
GR650 Piston Wrist Pin is 18mm
GS400 Piston Wrist pin is 16mm
GS500 cilinder on GS400X bottom end without gaskets is aprx. 16mm wrist pin to cil. deck height.
The GR650 piston at 0 deck depth will be good for a CR of 8.4:1 with stock dome, so I will need custom pistons (Wiseco)
The new conrods need to be 1 to 1.5mm shorter, to get to 0 piston deck to cil. deck clearance I will need to play around with different gaskets.
Request for parts
Also I am looking for the GS500 oil pump drive gear, not the actual gear that is on the pump but the gear that drives the pump, there is one brand new on e-bay but it has to come from Israel.
The GS500 oil pump had a higher gear ratio which will help me to get the oil pressure up a little bit, I will be installing an adjustable oil bypass valve to set the pressure at a certain value.
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R
Rensdw
Guest
Can one of the moderators move this thread to Performance/Tuning/Mods, I think that is a better place for this thread.
Finished one side of the cilinder head, one AN number 3 90-degree fitting, the tee-fitting will be capped off, can be used to connect an oil press. indicator.
Finished one side of the cilinder head, one AN number 3 90-degree fitting, the tee-fitting will be capped off, can be used to connect an oil press. indicator.
You've just hit the snag to this combination. You really need the 18mm gudgeon pin for the big pistons but the roller bearing crank rods are 16mm...
So it's either custom pistons or custom rods.
Custom rods will involve fresh roller bearing big end bearings and will all depend on the condition of the crankpins when it's split...And will not be cheap...
Been there with custom Carillos for a 450 Honda, wanted to get away from the odd size rollers in the honda bearing, not cheap...
Whoever does the pistons will tell you that they don't like 16mm pins in that bore size either...
Oil pump gears - you don't want or need the pressure of the GS500. You've got a roller bottom end which lives happily on very low pressure. It is possible, I haven't tried it, that the GS750 16V oil pump gears used to increase pressure in the fours may fit the twins too. They offer a useful increase without going over the top.
So it's either custom pistons or custom rods.
Custom rods will involve fresh roller bearing big end bearings and will all depend on the condition of the crankpins when it's split...And will not be cheap...
Been there with custom Carillos for a 450 Honda, wanted to get away from the odd size rollers in the honda bearing, not cheap...
Whoever does the pistons will tell you that they don't like 16mm pins in that bore size either...
Oil pump gears - you don't want or need the pressure of the GS500. You've got a roller bottom end which lives happily on very low pressure. It is possible, I haven't tried it, that the GS750 16V oil pump gears used to increase pressure in the fours may fit the twins too. They offer a useful increase without going over the top.
Why? You're cylinder can chain tunnel area doesn't match up to your block can chain tunnel area, so how did you propose to fix that? Figure your exact rod length difference, & do as Mekanix did & make a custom aluminum base gasket spacer. Heck, cosmetic or gasketstogo.com can make that for you if you give them specs or a cad drawing, or both engine's gaskets and careful notes or a sketch of the changes.
Then you'll have no messing with rods, and only have to worry about custom CP Carrillo/ Wiseco/JE Pistons.
What will be the major complaint of having 16mm wrist pins on that large of a piston? Curious, as I am running 72mm MTC's now on a gs750 with 16mm pins, & was considering a gs450 sleeved GS425 engine with 73mm (502cc) or 74mm (516cc) CP Carrillo pistons & head/block work from Rapid Ray for my next winter's project.
Stiffness of a tube (which a gudgeon pin is) goes up as the square of the diameter. 2mm increase in pin OD represents a very large increase in stiffness. Some can be gained by increased wall thickness but this brings more weight with it.
Personally, I wouldn't go bigger than your current 72mm on a 16mm pin. 2mm bore increase represents a substantial loading increase on the pin.
Remember that the early motors had 16mm pins but as soon as the revisions and redesigns came with later motors and capacity increases, Suzuki went to 18mm pins. Later still, pins got bigger again.
Hmmm... Bumping a gs425 up to 502cc's seems to be quite a lofty accomplishment in displacement, so I think I will still shoot for that. A friend on here had some 11:1 71mm JE Pistons made, so without any custom molds & calculations, I could get another set of those made, and that would be a 4mm overbore on the gs425 sleeves same as a wiseco 844 kit in a gs750, so as long as the 425 isn't using the same sleeves as the 400&750, that may bore right in. I'd rather have thicker sleeve walls however, so using some 450 sleeves with a 71mm 475cc / 72mm 489cc / 73mm 502cc setup seems to be the way to go. I'm really shooting for the 500+cc mark. Afraid to go much bigger for heat issues with less metal around the cylinders as well as bore rigidity & potential distortion.
I think with a megacycle street performance can & springs, bigger valves by RapidRay, & 489/502cc, a seriously lightened GS twin of this nature (330lbs with screaming performance engine & very dialed performance suspension&brakes) would be an absolute blast to rocket through the tighter twisties with, & may have enough power to even take on a 4-6 hr ride to the Appalachian/Allegheny Mountains with camping gear to pursue the tightest West Virginia roads...
For Ren's bike, maybe custom rods are necessary to get the larger pin & GR650 sized pistons? I would honestly try to maybe downsize to 75mm or 76mm on the pistons compared to the GR (are those 76 or 77mm???) if the pin strength is an issue. Maybe a thicker pin & lighter CP Piston would do it?
I think with a megacycle street performance can & springs, bigger valves by RapidRay, & 489/502cc, a seriously lightened GS twin of this nature (330lbs with screaming performance engine & very dialed performance suspension&brakes) would be an absolute blast to rocket through the tighter twisties with, & may have enough power to even take on a 4-6 hr ride to the Appalachian/Allegheny Mountains with camping gear to pursue the tightest West Virginia roads...
For Ren's bike, maybe custom rods are necessary to get the larger pin & GR650 sized pistons? I would honestly try to maybe downsize to 75mm or 76mm on the pistons compared to the GR (are those 76 or 77mm???) if the pin strength is an issue. Maybe a thicker pin & lighter CP Piston would do it?
R
Rensdw
Guest
I still think this thread should be move to Performance/Tuning/Mods, can any of the moderators help me out?
GregT;
I want the extra flow and pressure because I am most likely going to run a oil cooler with a thermostat and an adjustable oil relief valve, so a little bit of extra overcapacity would't hurt.
I'm going to do this because of the extra heat the engine will be producing and I'm just not gonna guess, I'm going to monitor the pressure and temperature to make sure the engine is running properly.
But you are right, if its too big of a hassle to change the ratio of the pump then I'll leave it, when the pressure turns out to be too low I don't have to take the whole engine apart, no big deal.
Chuck78;
Why? because I think it's fun.
The tunnel doesn't match up perfectly but luckily the chain is flexible, and I will most likely end up modifying or making custom chain guides.
Major complaint of the smaller 16mm gudgeon pin is strength/stiffness (like GregT said) and reliability.
I don't have the engineering skills to say/guess that "it will be fine" and I need different conrods anyway, since these are too long.
The aluminium spacer is something I thought about but having to move the studs at the same time made it too complicated/weak
Why would you think I should downsize? remember that is is a very heavy duty crankshaft with big (BIG!) roller bearings that were also uses on the GS1150 (should check that, could have been the 1100).
The only weak spot is the 16mm gudgeon pins, get rid of those and you have a crankshaft that should be able to take a lot of punishment.
Started polishing the combustion chambers, just to make it look nice
A collegue of mine gave me this spring tensiometer to match up the valve springs, it will help the engine to run smoother.
All the springs had a maximum of 1.5 pounds difference compared to each other, the exhaust springs being the lowest, not bad.
GregT;
I want the extra flow and pressure because I am most likely going to run a oil cooler with a thermostat and an adjustable oil relief valve, so a little bit of extra overcapacity would't hurt.
I'm going to do this because of the extra heat the engine will be producing and I'm just not gonna guess, I'm going to monitor the pressure and temperature to make sure the engine is running properly.
But you are right, if its too big of a hassle to change the ratio of the pump then I'll leave it, when the pressure turns out to be too low I don't have to take the whole engine apart, no big deal.
Chuck78;
Why? because I think it's fun.
The tunnel doesn't match up perfectly but luckily the chain is flexible, and I will most likely end up modifying or making custom chain guides.
Major complaint of the smaller 16mm gudgeon pin is strength/stiffness (like GregT said) and reliability.
I don't have the engineering skills to say/guess that "it will be fine" and I need different conrods anyway, since these are too long.
The aluminium spacer is something I thought about but having to move the studs at the same time made it too complicated/weak
Why would you think I should downsize? remember that is is a very heavy duty crankshaft with big (BIG!) roller bearings that were also uses on the GS1150 (should check that, could have been the 1100).
The only weak spot is the 16mm gudgeon pins, get rid of those and you have a crankshaft that should be able to take a lot of punishment.
Started polishing the combustion chambers, just to make it look nice
A collegue of mine gave me this spring tensiometer to match up the valve springs, it will help the engine to run smoother.
All the springs had a maximum of 1.5 pounds difference compared to each other, the exhaust springs being the lowest, not bad.
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When/if you do modify the oil pump, I wouldn't change the relief valve setting. It will be pretty low because with a roller bearing crank you're not pushing the oil against any real resistance. By all means increase the VOLUME going to the head as this is where you'll get most gains.
Everything now hinges on what you find when you split the crank. If the big end pins are usable great. If not you'll have to look for a good crank.
When i did the two CB450 race cranks I have here, we split 5 cranks to find two good ones. Then none of the rods were usable as all had worn big end eyes from the roller cages rubbing. So it was custom rods using Suzuki DR200 big end bearings which were the right ID for the pins and the right width. 3.5mm rollers Vs the oddball Honda 3.7mm mega expensive replacements.
I'd be interested in the pin diameter and the width of the big end eye as it may be possible to source something better which will fit.
Everything now hinges on what you find when you split the crank. If the big end pins are usable great. If not you'll have to look for a good crank.
When i did the two CB450 race cranks I have here, we split 5 cranks to find two good ones. Then none of the rods were usable as all had worn big end eyes from the roller cages rubbing. So it was custom rods using Suzuki DR200 big end bearings which were the right ID for the pins and the right width. 3.5mm rollers Vs the oddball Honda 3.7mm mega expensive replacements.
I'd be interested in the pin diameter and the width of the big end eye as it may be possible to source something better which will fit.
R
Rensdw
Guest
I am still designing the oil system in my head, biggest issue is separating the roller bearing lubrication from the camshaft plain bearing lubrication, I might be working with jets to keep the low end pressure low and head pressure higher.
I don't think the Suzuki crank has the same problem you are describing, but it sure is an interesting piece of information, I'll make sure to get back to this.
Still I haven't decided whether I wanna keep the balancer shaft or not, I want this bike to be reliable and I just don't have the experience to make a good decision.
Wiseco never replied to my quote request, and I am out of town for over a week to do a job, I will call them afterwards.
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