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Cold start

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Guest

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Hi everyone, I'm a new member and need some help figuring out the cause of a problem. The bike is a GS1000S and in cold starting it struggles to start and only seems to start on two cylinders. Once warmed up the engine runs normally although cylinders 1 and 4 remain colder than the others. In cold weather it is the cylinders that struggle to start. Is it the 1/4 coil? Will it be the high voltage cables? who can help me? thank you all.
 

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Welcome

Start w/ the top 10 Newbie mistakes thread linked in my signature.

Also see the VM Carb rebuild tutorial found on BikeCliff's Website (link in sig) look at top of right column below the wiring diagrams.

When did you last adjust shims/valve clearance?
 
Hi, that the bike has 20K km and, to my knowledge has never been checked for valve registration. Don't you think it's an electrical problem?
 
I can only guess. But the fact that it does eventually fire on all 4 leads me to believe that your problem is more fuel delivery related. Tight valves can lead to poor running and eventual damage, not sure if it would cause your cold start issue. My first look would be at air leaks between carbs and engine, then fuel delivery/clean carbs. But I'm certainly not an expert.
 
No personal knowledge on the two valve engines, but they are said to be hard to cold start when the valve clearance is too tight. If you've never checked them don't assume a previous owner has.

Great looking cycle by the way.
 
It may be a stupid question, but do you turn your petcock to the "Prime" position when you try to start it up? After I got my S, I went through the same problem before someone told me about the petcock position. It, too, would be very hard to start, and when it did, it was only 2 cylinders until it got the fuel it needed.
 
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I think it could be useful, however the problem with the petcock is the type that doesn't have the opening lever and, to put it in prime you need a screwdriver.
 
This is a petcock of my GS 1000 S.
 

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I'm certainly not an authority, but that petcock looks like it needs to be thrown away. New ones are available, a bit pricey, but a new one would eliminate the possibility of that being your problem, or at least takes away the need to use a screwdriver to turn it. I can only imagine what a pain it is to do that. These engines require a good shot of fuel to fill the carb bowls and get them to fire up. Prime, start the engine, and then return it to the On position once it's running.
 
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Got to be in the running for one of the stupidest things Suzuki ever did... doesn't even have a RES... Thank goodness "80" was the only yr. they used it.
 
Shoot, that one, K&L brand, says it has ON / OFF / RES / PRI. Huge improvement over OEM.
 
Yes, I actually replaced that petcock because it was damaged. I did however repurchase the same model because that's how it comes out of the factory. The model with the lever was way too expensive. Now I'll see if I can check the synchronization of the carburetors to see if they open in tune. Anyway thanks for the advice. I will update on the outcome.
 
Hi all, I wanted to update you on the progress in eliminating the problem of limp engine operation on cold start and first few metres of run. The carburettors were completely reassembled, and were in perfect clean condition; with the help of a carburettorist we subjected them to a sort of vacuum to check that all the internal passages were free and clean and indeed they were. The float level was 24mm for all of them. After that we subjected the bike to synchronisation with the instrument carburettor. I can therefore say that the problem does not stem from the carburettors or from the petcock which is new. However, the problem disappears almost completely when the engine reaches operating temperature. The spark plugs spark is strong for all cylinders. The compression tested with the instrument is about 10Kg/cm2 for all cylinders. At this point it remains to adjust the valves, are they tight? or wide? Are these symptoms of failed valve adjustment? Sorry for my english by Deepl.
 
If you don't know when the valve clearances were last checked or adjusted, you should check them simply because it's basic maintenance.
If the valves are within spec, then I suspect your pilot circuit isn't supplying enough fuel.
 
Hello everyone, update on the situation: I installed the electronic ignition not for the starting problem but to improve the bike. However, I eliminated the problem by installing the new ignition: coils, high voltage wires, spark plug caps, points and condensers. However, the ignition problem remains and, therefore, the problem is limited to restoring the valves or fuel tap. I proceed in small steps.
 
You eliminated the problem but the problem remains?

Adjust the valves already for chrissakes.

Almost all of my carbureted 4cyl bikes will start up missing on a cylinder or two if the bike has sat long enough for fuel to evaporate from the bowls and I don't let them prime enough by setting the petcock to "prime."
 
Filipo, you wasted time and money at the shop syncing the carbs before first verifying and adjusting, if necessary, your valve clearances. Just do it.

Rob, I guarantee Filipo’s English is way better than your Italian. :p
 
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