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Get clutch cover loose……?

Redman

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Got the bolts out (bolt kit that I think I put in about 2006 instead of Phillips screws).

book says to tap around sides to get the cover loose.
did that. And again more heavily.
esculated to real hammer and piece of 1x2….
got it to where it can wiggle some. Can see it separate from the engine case just a little.
seems to rock a bit around with points about 10oclock and maybe 5oclock staying tight. Looks like maybe is dowel guides there.

seems that about 20 minutes of frustration is my limit these days.

any words of wisdom…?
 

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Looks like cover has little tabs at about 7oclock and 5oclock, but not finding anyway to get anything in behind them.

(need to step away for awhile.)
(working on bike isn’t why I have bikes.)
 
Yes there are dowels. The open oil filler hole makes a handy place to stick a finger in to yank the cover. There also may be a little tab at the bottom LH of the cover by the oil level sight window. Be careful with it as it's very thin. I'd take the brake lever and foot peg off for some clearance.
 
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Dave, maybe this will help.

I had a heck of a time getting my clutch cover off. Wound up cutting a 2x4 long enough to span from the crash bar to the rear shock mount. Then stuck one end of the plastic QuickGrip clamp in the oil fill hole, other end on the 2x4. Pry things help tremendously, but all together worked very well. Not sure how else it would have come loose. The dowell pin guides were just corroded enough to make it harder than it should be.

I found a couple of pry things to use which were the rubber coated handle of an oil filter channel lock type thing and a thick pry bar. Squeeze some pressure on the clamp and pry, tap, pry, tap tap, squeeze, tap, pry and repeat....

A few pics for reference.
Clutch cover removal by Roger, on Flickr

Clutch cover removal by Roger, on Flickr

Clutch cover removal by Roger, on Flickr

Good luck!
 
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Dave, maybe this will help.

I had a heck of a time getting my clutch cover off. Wound up cutting a 2x4 long enough to span from the crash bar to the rear shock mount. Then stuck one end of the plastic QuickGrip clamp in the oil fill hole, other end on the 2x4. Pry things help tremendously, but all together worked very well. Not sure how else it would have come loose. The dowell pin guides were just corroded enough to make it harder than .
z
.
.

thanks Roger

. . .
 
With better understanding/observation of location of the dowels (can see humps in cover).

I found something to pry behind cover at the kinda like Roger’s picture (I used half a channel lock plyer) at the 2oclock position. And a 2foot 1x2 stuck through frame, behind the tab at the 7oclock position and tap with hammer from other side of bike.

got enough of a crack open to hit the dowel area with penitrent (deep creep is good stuff, expensive, so save for worse case) early this morning. And let it sit for 3 hours. Then later this morning with more of the same taping and prying, got it to wiggle out a little bit at a time.

yep, dowels rusty some. Maybe when I did this 15 years ago was before I learnt to use neverseize on stuff.

wAAACH5BAEKAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAICRAEAOw==
 

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Will be a few days before can get back to it.
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Fantastic!

I hope getting that old crusty gasket off proves easier than removing the cover.:eek:
 
Maybe I've always been lucky. The clutch lever itself can be used to push the cover away from the cases. I usually augment the leverage a bit with a wrench.
 
Maybe I've always been lucky. The clutch lever itself can be used to push the cover away from the cases. I usually augment the leverage a bit with a wrench.

Ha !

Good idea (if dont disconnect the cable first....)

.
 
At least for the cover I would submerge it in water for 24 hours or so. In my experience these types of gaskets come off really easily after that, practically peeling off by hand.

Fantastic!

I hope getting that old crusty gasket off proves easier than removing the cover.:eek:
 
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