I installed the SH775 but need to know how to replace the circuit at the light.

[dubwicht]

Hello. I just completed the SH775 mod but am wondering how to rewire at the lighting switch since the white with red and white with green wires run to it. I used the white with green wire in the new rectifier an the white with red wire is not being used. That circuit is shown on my schematic. Any help would be appreciated!

 

[chuck hahn]

Here....................................

 

[dubwicht]

Thanks - I already installed but wanted to know how to replace the circuit at the light that requires the white and red and the white and green. The white and green wire was used in the rectifier and the other is not being used.

 

[chuck hahn]

Im not understanding what "light" your talking about. If you have a 5 wire lead off the stator youll notice that there are two sets with the same color. So you use three wires all with different tracers and youll have two that just hang loose.

 

[dubwicht]

I just figured it out. The white and green wire runs from the stator to the light switch and then back to the rectifier as the white and red. When the light is switched "on" the bike will charge but will not when the lights are turned off. I am not sure why it was wired this way. I have a 1979 GS1000L.

 

[chuck hahn]

just wire it like the install diagram and do away with the loop. absolutely no need for it.

 

[dubwicht]

Here is the schematic. The white and green leaves the centre of the stator and comes back as white and red and an input to the rectifier. ​

 

[dubwicht]

Ok - thanks - I guess each GS1000 model is wired differently.

 

[pdqford]

Hello. I just completed the SH775 mod but am wondering how to rewire at the lighting switch since the white with red and white with green wires run to it.

The reason the white/red and white/green went to the light switch so that when the light switch is "on", the white/red and white/green wires are connected together so that all three phases of the stator feed the rectifier. And when the light switch is in the "off", the wires are not connected, which eliminates one of the stator phases from going to the rectifier.

Take a look at a wiring diagram:
https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac/~cliff/storage/gs/GS750_schematic_color.pdf

Follow the white/green wire from the stator on its way to the light switch and you will see a connector. Disconnect that connector.
Follow the white/red wire coming from the light switch and going into the R/R you will see a connector. Disconnect that connector.
That takes the light switch out of the stator to rectifier loop.

Now connect the white/green wire coming from the stator to the white/red wire that goes into the rectifier.

And presto/whammo, you have eliminated the light switch from stator to rectifier circuit AND all three phases of the stator will be permanently connected to the rectifier, as shown in Chuck's post #2 above.

No need to do anything with the portion of the white/green wire that goes to the light switch and the white/red wire coming back from the light switch as those wires are no longer connected to power. (You may want to tape the ends to indicate they are no longer used.)

Now to follow Chuck's post above, it is best to run the three wires (white/green, white/blue, and yellow, if you are still running a factory stator) straight into the SH775 rectifier to minimize connections.

 

[dubwicht]

Heck - the E/S and L are all wired that way and it wasn't mentioned in the mod instructions. Perhaps someone should add it for clarification. Someone not familiar with bike electronics may have a tough time.

 

[dubwicht]

Thanks pdqford! The schematic is great.

 

[Nessism]

Heck - the E/S and L are all wired that way and it wasn't mentioned in the mod instructions. Perhaps someone should add it for clarification. Someone not familiar with bike electronics may have a tough time.

The instructions are correct; bypass the factory wiring.

 

[Don R]

I also left those two wires unhooked but while checking a low voltage issue I noticed the red feed was hot, inside the wiring cover was another red that wasn't connected, I made a M-F-F jumper and hooked it to the other reds. Now it is working fine, no hot wires and the lights aren't dim anymore. I don't fully understand what I have done electrically but it works.
There was some previous work done before I got the bike that was twisted joints and gooped ends. I replaced all of them with proper 3mm bullet connectors.

 

[dubwicht]

Another thing to note - on my bike there were two yellow and two blue and white wire coming from the stator but they are connected in the harness. For those who have not done this - cut one of each.

 

[dubwicht]

Interesting Don R. I am not sure about yours but someone messed with the wiring on my bike and I an trying to fix it. A tell tale sign is the crappy automotive connectors and loose electrical tape joints.

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

If you have a stator with 4 wires, it is the wrong stator.

 

[Nessism]

Reading back through this, it's unclear if you have the bike sorted or not.

Just to be clear...disconnect both the regulator and rectifier and remove them. When removing the rectifier, take note of the RED bullet connector. You will reuse this connection. All others can be taped up and stowed away.

Find a place for the SH775, and mount it to the frame.

Find the wires coming from the stator. There will be a wire bundle coming from the stator cover. Disconnect these wires from the main harness. Route the bundle up by the SH775, to check length and harness routing. It doesn't matter what colors these wires are, these three must be fed directly into the SH775.

Take the negative output from the SH775, and route it up to the battery negative post.

Take the positive output from the SH775, and connect it to the red bullet connector feeding your main harness. This red wire was previously connected to your rectifier.

Check charging system output by reving up the engine to 5000 rpm. You should see between 14-14.5 VDC. The battery must be charged or the output will be low.

 

[Grimly]

I just figured it out. The white and green wire runs from the stator to the light switch and then back to the rectifier as the white and red. When the light is switched "on" the bike will charge but will not when the lights are turned off. I am not sure why it was wired this way. I have a 1979 GS1000L.

It was wired that way to alleviate the load on the stator when the bike was running with lights off. Due to a peculiarity of the cheapskate regulator/ rectifier design, the stator is always running at full belt and when the headlight is on, that's ok. When the headlight is not on, Suzuki used those two long wires to also switch off a phase of the stator's output and helped keep it cooler than otherwise.
Due to the cheapskate nature of the reg/rec, the stator will eventually burn out, but that's ok, because it was usually in the hands of the third owner or so, so Suzuki were off the hook and could charge a few hundred bucks for a replacement.
With the advent of teh SH-775, all this changed, and proper governance of the electrical output could take place with no need for the extra wiring and switch malarkey.

 

[dubwicht]

Thanks Dave - great explanation.

 

[dubwicht]

My stator actually had 5 wires - Green/yellow, two yellow and two blue and white. However, the two yellows and the two blue and whites are connected in the harness. I cut one of each and now have 3 wires. The spits are shown on the schematic.