SH775 Installation for Dummies

[dubwicht]

This week I installed the SH775 Rectifier/Regulator and wanted to thank the forum for the assistance. I wanted to add a few details that may help the less experienced complete this task.

On my bike there were 5 wires coming out of the stator - two yellow, two blue and white and one green and white. The yellows and the blue and whites are connected inside the harness. Cut one of each. You now have a green and white, one yellow and one blue and white.

You will notice that one of the wires running into the old rectifier is white and red. Cut this wire - it is not needed. Also, cut the green and green and white wire that is coming from the main harness - it is also not needed. The green and white wire was routed through the light switch and the return wire was white and red. This circuit is not required with the SH775.

You will find the red wire in the harness. Connect this to the stator as shown in the diagram. Connect the black wire directly to the battery as shown.

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[dubwicht]

Wires going into the old rectifier.

 

[dubwicht]

From my stator - green and white wire is behind. Cut one yellow and one blue and white.

 

[dubwicht]

Red wire in harness with green and white (going in and to the light switch) and red and white (coming from the light switch). These wires can be tucked away and are not required.

 

[dubwicht]

The replacement rectifier is also known as the Polaris 4012941. You can find them on Ebay. Search under either number or for an Indian Scout FTR 1200 rectifier. Polaris wants close to $400 for these new in Canada - nuts. RIcks sells new ones for $200 (not sure about the quality). You can get used ones for 60 - 100 dollars. I found several on a search for the Scout one today. I got mine from a guy in Australia and it is in near mint condition.

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[dubwicht]

As for where to mount it - perhaps folks can help with that. I noticed that this one for sale on Ebay appears to have a heat sink mount. Perhaps they should be mounted flat on metal?

 

[dubwicht]

This is a creative way to mount it.

 

[Brendan W]

Cool, literally and figuratively.
I could nitpick about what happens in stop start traffic on hot days....... in theory
A lot of old Brit bikes mounted it out front under the headlight.
At a guess they were so inefficient they needed the best cooling available.
I mounted mine 'flat to metal' under the battery box.
Because the 775 is not a shunter, I expect the current, on average, is lower than a shunt type and with the passage of time electronic gizmos have become more efficient, less heat to dissipate in the first place.

 

[salty_monk]

On the 1000 I was able to fit it in the stock position of the 2 part regulator it replaced. On the 1000G I fitted it in the stock spot under the battery. On the 1100G it also fitted in the stock spot. It's all just a case of making up some brackets & drilling some holes

 

[dubwicht]

I wanted to add that will need a connector kit for the SH775. This is the best option because the connection is waterproof. The cheap way would be to connect directly onto the pins with like female connectors.

 

[dubwicht]

The SH775 will fit in the same location as the previous hardware if you turn the starter solenoid upside down and shim up on one of the bolts on the metal plate. Mine is loose in the photo but not bolted down. You will have to relocate the flasher. I haven't checked whether or not the side cover will fit over this. Perhaps not.

 

[uk gs nut]

For information hardleys 750 have SH775. I bought a used item for ?35 posted. Works perfect on my sv650.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20288396...uI3BN7oSvy&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

 

[dubwicht]

I noticed that there are some aftermarket models made by LP2 that look just like the originals. They have metal bottoms and the cast is the same. The other copies have a different cast and no metal bottom. Perhaps this aftermarket version is better and worth buying?

 

[uk gs nut]

I bet there still shunt and not series units. Buy a genuine sh775 and be sure, just my thoughts.

 

[Grimly]

I noticed that there are some aftermarket models made by LP2 that look just like the originals. They have metal bottoms and the cast is the same. The other copies have a different cast and no metal bottom. Perhaps this aftermarket version is better and worth buying?

There's no shortage of outright fakes and flammboozerlies around.
Fakes are lookalikes that try to pass themselves off as the real thing.
Flamboozerlies are lookalikes that don't directly call themselves the real thing but employ weasel wording like "will fit blah model" without telling you that it's a genuine series regulator.
That's because they're not genuine. Internally, they're just more shunt regs and while they will work for for a while, they'll toast the stators just like the OEM ones.
Then they'll fail anyway, because they're cheap crap.