• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

15 years of owning my GS

Well it turns out that I goofed up my bearing part numbers. The ones I found on eBay were swingarm bearings, not the rod set cushion bearings ( one of the linkage parts). Good news is that they were even cheaper from two different small sellers. Soooo.. I ordered the Duc shock too.

Gustovh, no need to go on a search unless you feel the need. Personally, I do like to look thru my junk on occasion..
Again, thanks. Another example of why this spot is great.
 
Shock arrived today. It looks good, but the bottom out bushing that sits on the shaft was deteriorated from age (shock listed as being from a 1997 bike, 9k miles). I made one from a rubber bushing and stuck it on, then I swapped the 1150 spring on. A few washers were needed as spacers on the swingarm end, but otherwise the fit looks good. When my bearings arrive, I can wrap this up..

http://Gs1150 to M900 shock swap. by Glen Brenner, on Flickr

http://Gs1150 to M900 shock swap. by Glen Brenner, on Flickr
 
Yay... the second bearing arrived today- ordered from two different eBay sellers.
I stuck them in my he freezer for a few hours, warmed up the steel linkage piece, gave it a light coat of oil, then easily tapped them in with a rubber mallet.
I can start reassembly now.
 
I loosely fit everything back together last night and ran into problems.
When checking on the bench, the Ducati shock fit ok, but when installing it, the shock was binding and would not line up with the bottom mounting hole. It turns out that while it fit the top mount, the angle required caused the top mount to hit the edge of the linkage opening - the top of the Ducati shock is larger as seen in my previous post.
I clearanced it a bit, and it seemed ok, but wanted to be sure. I removed the spring, which is really easy on this shock by design, reinstalled it and moved it thru its range of travel. At full compression, the nitrogen Schrader valve fitting hits the mounting bracket....
http://Untitled by Glen Brenner, on Flickr

I removed and flipped the shock and it has proper clearance. I've seen plenty of dual shock bikes with their shocks upside down, so I'm going with it. Other then the potential for dirt buildup around the seal, I can't see why it would matter. It will make access to the compression adjuster difficult, but that's life... the bike definitely sits higher now with little sag, but I can reduce the preload somewhat if needed. This is with the 1150 spring. The Ducati spring was heavier (thicker spring) and shorter. It likely would have been waaay too stiff. If I recall Rapid Ray mentioned somewhere to use the 1150 spring.
 
Last edited:
I got a bit excited this morning , but it was short lived. There was an 1150 frame, shock, swingarm, and forks on eBay at $99. The seller noted and pictured a small welded repair down low by where my parts bike is rusted. It was just a few small boogers, but enough for me to ask the seller if he had any info about the repair. He gave an honest answer which was that he did not know. The price would have been worth taking a chance if it was local - even local-ish, but it's in Ohio, so shipping would likely make it not worth it if it was a problem frame.

Tonight I got everything tightened up, put the footrest brackets, etc back on. I still need to buy a chain.
Now that I have good suspension on both ends, I want read up and set the sag on the suspension before the season starts.
 
Well a little late, found the shock and swingarm but looks like you don't need it now...

V
 
Thanks Gustovh, yes I?m set for now.
Apparently my M.O. is bolting good parts to a bad frame....:numbness:
I?ll get it right ..... eventually.....
 
Parts bike came with a like new 530 aluminum rear sprocket and a crusty chain.
Being that my chain died early, I need new. It was either another 630 chain, or a 530 front sprocket, plus some work to swap over. Checking eBay for 630 chains found a variety of prices - $60 for an off brand o ring chain up to nearly $200 for a known good brand. And while I'm cheap, I will not use a non o ring chain. I bought a bike with one once and it was awful. It needed constant adjustment and wore out quickly.
I checked Z1 for a 530 sprocket - under $20.... some quick math:p, later, and I'm going with the 530.
I spent some time with the chain. I soaked it in some concoction of old fuel oil and gas that was used for cleaning, scrubbed the links with a nylon brush and the side plates with a brass bristle brush. It cleaned up surprisingly well, and actually is mostly shiny...

I just need to confirm with Z1 about what tooth count I need for the front to replicate the ratio, plus I read elsewhere that in some instances a spacer is needed with the 530 front sprocket. Hopefully Monday I'll get an answer....
 
Good luck Glen. I bought my 530 from Z1 a while ago. I've yet to install it. Sounds like you're much eager than me. Post pics!


Ed
 
I just need to confirm with Z1 about what tooth count I need for the front to replicate the ratio, plus I read elsewhere that in some instances a spacer is needed with the 530 front sprocket. Hopefully Monday I'll get an answer....
You will need a spacer, and Z1 will have it. (And the spacer goes on the outside, just in case it comes up:))

If you are happy with your current 630 ratio, just do the math and go with the same ratio for the 530. Or adjust up or down, if you wish.
 
Thanks Bob.
Z1 replied to my email this morning. With the 45t rear sprocket, I can't keep the same ratio, which I'm not particularly concerned with. They said a 17t front will drop the engine speed a bit. They also said a 6mm spacer is required, but didn't note placement, so thanks for that. They also gave a link count so I might as well check my chain to confirm that it will work.
The notes also say that the locking tab may not be able to be used and to use red locktite on the nut. Was this the case for you? I'm assuming this was on your 1100e, which is basically the same as 1150.
 
It has been many years since I did the conversion, but I am fairly certain I did use the locking tab washer on the front sprocket.
I don't see why it wouldn't still work.
 
I'm a happy camper at the moment.
After counting my chain links I was two short of what Z1 recommend at 118. At that point I didn't know if 120 was a stock size they keep on hand or an exact number - so I punted and ordered a 16t front.... and a 15t, holding out great hope that the 16 would work. As it is, a stock geared 1150 can pretty easily start in second gear, and at times seems to be geared a bit highway un friendly, so dropping the front to 15 would have been a bit much, but the goal was to do as much as I can with parts on hand to get me thru the next season or two.
In a move of laziness that I am not ashamed of, I simply swapped over the sprocket carrier with the 530 sprocket from the parts bike, channeling the siprit of old and current car hot rodders that run 9" Ford rears with several differently geared center sections on hand for swaps.... The 16t sprocket works and the chain is long enough - yay.

Front sprocket with spacer.
http://GS by Glen Brenner, on Flickr

I dig the holey rear sprocket. Its aluminum, so I expect it to wear quicker. It will be interesting.
http://GS by Glen Brenner, on Flickr


This is the 630 front sprocket with its heavy wear on the inboard side. I looked thru old reciepts / notes and found that it has about 13k miles on it. On the other side, the black finish is just barely worn off at the bottom of the teeth.
http://GS by Glen Brenner, on Flickr

I may be back outside later to continue wrapping up some details - bleed the rear brake, lock the wheel in place, search for cutter pins......
 
That front sprocket looks tore up!

I can just imagine how great the new set-up works.

Thanks for posting!


Ed
 
That?s the whole misalignment issue that has sent me down this deep rabbit hole. Hopefully the swingarm helps, but it doesn?t seem to be the cure. Ironically, with 13k miles both sprockets have surprisingly little tooth wear, the teeth still look good, and aren?t beginning to point forward.
I just found cotter pins in the work van left over from an unused heater repair kit. Round two later....
 
Yep. Perfect for the lock washer.

.... and I was so close to finishing tonight..... but I need brake fluid.
 
Finally got out for a quick test ride last night and today. Not long enough to draw conclusions on the Ducati shock, but initial impressions are good. I thought the bike sat a bit higher when sitting on the bike in the garage, but once riding I didn't notice a difference at stops. Must've been the difference of in the garage with no gear and sneakers vs riding in gear and boots. I hit a couple of on / off ramps and it did feel better. More stable. I did find myself heading to the inside of the ramp and having to correct so something must've subtly changed. It was also my first ride since December so that bears some weight also. Time will tell.

It's much more... lively...with the gearing change, particularly in town and with engine braking. Definitely turns more rpm, and blows thru the gears quickly, but that was expected. It should be fun anywhere but on the highway, and even that wasn't too bad. 70 mph was at about 5000 rpm on my occasionally wonky tach.

It felt great to get out, even if for only a bit.
 
I’m curious about the 630/530 chain swap. What’s the benefit and is it worth the money and time?

The chain is lighter but on a 500lb motorcycle does that really matter. There are a few other benefits though. I converted mine after a trip where for some reason I had premature chain failure due to a defective 630 chain. Managed to limp home but had I had a 530 chain that is more readily available in most shops I would have had it changed. As for cost .....it really costs no more than replacing with the 630 stuff. Just wait until you're due for a chain and sprocket replacement, not something I'd run out change until then. For cross reference purposes if you're having trouble the GS650E sprockets are a direct swap. I used 50/18 to keep the stock ratio (real close) and stock diameter sprockets on my 1000. IIRC I think the chain was 116 links. Just remember that you will need a 6mm. spacer on the outboard side of the front sprocket. Nothing to do with sprocket alignment it's that otherwise he nut won't seat up against the narrower than stock sprocket spline area.
 
Back
Top