16v 1000cc rebuild

[Smokinapankake]

My 82 Katana has been in pieces for a few years now, and I've started to get it back together here: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=152706

I'm at the point of installing jugs, valves and head, timing the cams and buttoning er up.
I've got two competent (?) friends coming over this Friday, the 28th, to accomplish this. We plan on doing the following:
hone cylinders
lap valves
install pistons to con rods
install jugs
install cams
time motor
drink beer

I have the following in preparation for above activities:
3 shoe hone
valve lapping compound and lapper tool thingy (with the suction cups on the ends)
new piston ring sets
new cylinder base O-rings
new base gasket
assembly lube
acetone (for cleaning cylinders after hone - this is what Tim recommends, although the biggest thing is to be sure they are CLEAN, however you get there)
new half moon seals
new head gasket
new valve cover gasket
new valve stem seals
valve clearance feeler gauge
torque wrench
Matt (one of the buddies) has a ring compressor
Matt also recommends using fresh motor oil for honing cyclinders
factory service manual with supplement for the 82 Katana
Nerves have been fortified with the knowledge that Matt is the shop manager at a local Victory Cycles dealership and has built hundreds of motors in his day; and Tim, my V-max ridin crew chief of a pro stock drag car based in Salt Lake City. He's also the parts manager for (one of) the local Honda car dealerships. He's had his hands in more than his fair share of motors although most of them ar eof the V-8 persuasion.
Beer as an additional assembly lube

What I know I need but do not have yet:

Valve spring compressor.

I'm thinking I'll make one somewhat along the lines of a big C-clamp with a "adapter shoe" made of brass/aluminum/hard plastic (PVC?) tubing and windows cut into the sides for inserting the keeper retainers. Pics of your homemade versions would be helpful here if you have any.
Other possibility is to beg/borrow/steal from a fellow enthusiast and coworker, if he has one that will work.


Anything else you guys can think of I may need?

Thanks for the help!

 

[blowerbike]

hmmmm,
i prefer ball hones.
i don't use ring compressors.
i W/D40 the cyl. with white paper towls till there's no color on them.
different ways to skyn a kat or katana i guess...hahahaha

 

[sk843143]

um ...... u dont use ring compressors....... how do you get the pistion to fit in the bore

 

[blowerbike]

i like pop cycles.
i use there sticks.
just me/no help.

 

[koolaid_kid]

I strongly suggest that you use a ball hone versus a 3 stone model. There is a huge difference in the results.
I put each ring in by hand, using a small plastic stick to help.
For a cleaner, as long as there is no residue you will be fine.
I borrowed a home-made spring compressor from a friend, it is just as you described: an 8" C-clamp with a socket attached, with a cutout window so you can work on the keepers if need be.

 

[Nessism]

One more vote for dingoball hone.

The cylinder liner has a tapered edge on the bottom so you just need to compress the rings a little when you install the pistons. Just be careful.

 

[rapidray]

I don't like WD-40 to clean the cylinders as it CAN cause the cylinder walls to "glaze" upon fireup. I use ATF to wipe the cylinders until the towels stay a nice clean pink. Also, what Terry said about the popcycle sticks! Ray.

 

[Smokinapankake]

Thanks for the replies, guys. I'll see if I can find a ball hone somewhere - shouldn't be too difficult.

ATF is on the list.

Ray,

One other question: I've successfully kept the valve springs identified and separated in an egg carton for 2-1/2 years now. My 6 yo son got into them (I believe he did, anyway) and it appears that 4 pairs (inner n outer)of them are unidentifiable as to which hole they go into. Is this an issue?

 

[rapidray]

I would buy a set of Kibblewhite springs for it as that motor is a good performer with good cams for a stocker, & your springs are almost 30 years old! If you decide to use the OLD, almost 30 year old stock springs, it won't matter if they got out of order. Did I mention your springs are almost 30 years old? LOL! Ray.

 

[blowerbike]

I don't like WD-40 to clean the cylinders as it CAN cause the cylinder walls to "glaze" upon fireup. I use ATF to wipe the cylinders until the towels stay a nice clean pink. Also, what Terry said about the popcycle sticks! Ray.

i forgot to mention that i spay the cylinders & pistons down with carb cleaner before i assemble.
the rings seat pretty fast that way.

 

[Nessism]

i forgot to mention that i spay the cylinders & pistons down with carb cleaner before i assemble.
the rings seat pretty fast that way.

Only do this if you are going to have the engine running right away or they can get rusty pretty fast.

 

[blowerbike]

Only do this if you are going to have the engine running right away or they can get rusty pretty fast.

uhuh...

 

[Smokinapankake]

Thanks guys for the help, I don't think it'll be running super quick as I still have stator, signal generator cover, and clutch cover to address. Haven't decided whether to polish or powdercoat these items. Probably PC because I'm just too lazy to polish. And repolish. And repolish again and again.....

 

[Smokinapankake]

Ray,

Is there a problem with reusing the original springs? And where do I find some of these Kibblewhites of which you speak?

Thanks!

 

[Nessism]

The service manual should have a spring height specification, so you can compare to that. The springs tend to sack with wear so if they are too short you definitely need new springs. Assuming you need new springs for arguments sake, I would not install springs with a higher spring rate than stock unless you are running high lift aftermarket cams. I have no idea how those Kibblewhite springs are speced but most aftermarket springs are stiffer than stock which will increase wear on the related components.

 

[Guest]

I put each ring in by hand, using a small plastic stick to help.

How do you use these sticks? Do you lay them flat against the OD of the ring and then hold the ring in it's groove while pushing the piston into the bore?
Thanks

 

[rapidray]

Yes on using the sticks & if they flex too much glue 2 together. Also, Kibblewhite has 2 different springs for a GS & the lower pressure springs will work fine for what you want to do. I can get them for you if you need. Ray.

 

[Smokinapankake]

Thanks Ray,

I'll have to measure them tonight to see free length.

 

[BassCliff]

Hi Mr. Smokinapankake,

Have you seen Mr. Steve's valve spring replacement tool?

Valve Replacement
(by Mr. Steve)

It's simple, cheap, and works great.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[Smokinapankake]

So I've measured my springs, both inner and outer, and they all exceed the limit spec'd in the manual.

The specs are as follows:

Valve spring free lenght (IN/EX)
Inner: 31.9 mm or 1.26"
Outer: 35.6 mmor 1.40"

There is no standard length listed in my service manual, only the limits.

SO, if my springs are longer than the limits they should be ok. There is also a spring tension standard but no limit. I have no accurate way to measure this so I'm going to have to go off length alone.

As it is, my springs all measure:

Inners: 1.270" - 1.285" ish...
Outers: 1.443" - 1.458"

These are well over the length limit specified in my manual so I don't think I'll be replacing them.

Thanks for posting that video link Basscliff, Steve makes it look easy!