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1976 GS750 Clean and Rebuild

  • Thread starter Thread starter shryke300
  • Start date Start date
Does this look OK?

Does this look OK?

I thought about making a tail that was little shorter than my last one. One kind of like this:
http://houseonfireindustries.com/2012/05/20/gimme-the-loop-yamaha-xs650-cafe-racer-seat-build/

However, I put my old tail on and it looks like this:


This tail would need a little work on it still, but could do the duty. Opinions? I think the longer tank helps the tail be a little more proportional. I think it may work well, but ..... I would like opinions. Which way should I go? will the old tail look good (not just OK)?
 
More Options

More Options

Option 2:


Option 3:


Option 4:


Final Option:


So what do you think?
 
Shocks

Shocks

So... I like the stance of the bike and to keep it, it looks like the rear shocks would have to be about an inch longer. Would this cause any issues with the chain? Anything else I might not have thought of...?
 
Wow cowboy, I would have not guessed that one, good eye!

If you raise your rear shocks, it will increase your rake and decrease your trail on the forks, so the steering will be affected and will respond differently. It will turn in much faster, but due to not correcting the changed trail measurement with a different offset set of triple clamps, you will lose a slight bit of high speed steering stability. I gathered that this is why a lot of modern sport bike forks have much greater offset to the triples, because they have much steeper rakes (head tube steering angle). trail is something you will have to look up for a visual description, centerline of the the fork legs at the rake angle to an imaginary line on the ground vs the imaginary line on the ground directly below the axle perpendicular to the ground as opposed to the line that the fork legs point at that is ahead of the axle at ground level. Basically the difference between the center of the tire contact patch measured to the center of the axle's perpendicular axis to the ground. adding a steering damper (dampener?) or stabilizer is a bandaid to cure woes of altered trail and steep rake. Modern sport bikes come with them even when they have the factory engineered rake and trail, as they are set up more aggressively for fast turn-in (especially to make up for the monstrous and slow turning characteristics of a gargantuan 180 rear tire...
Basically a proper amount of rake and trail is needed to balance out the high speed stability vs low and medium speed turn in characteristics. the offset in the triples (and the axle position on leading axle forks) is what dictates the trail. Less rake and more trail makes for more straight line stability but slower or harder turn in characteristics. More rake and less trail does the opposite. Therefore a good balance of both is what is ideal.

Please correct me if I am off base, anyone.
 
A little help

A little help

Photos supplied by Eric. (your stator wire brackets and routing)


The answer to your black bolt question. It keeps the shift mechanism in position.
It holds the return spring, which returns the shifter back into position for the next shift.

Diagram from Bikebandit's website.(item #27)
su0320_022.gif
 
You guys are awesome. I thought I had labeled everything well when I took it apart, but left those out! I have done a couple of things and hope to have more pictures coming soon!
 
Tried to get the jugs on today. Going pretty well:


Until this happened:


This happened on both the outside pistons, both the bottom oil ring. I have old ones that worked, but I don't think I should use them, so I guess its now another $35 a set. :mad::(
 
I don't know if they are Athena's, but yes, I did get it in a cheap pack on ebay. My head gasket is cometic, though. I was hoping the base gasket would not be as critical due to low pressure...?:confused:
 
Do not cheap out on the base gasket, only Suzuki gasket there, there is a great deal of pressure from the torque of head nuts.

Just sayin.......
 
Buy an OEM Suzuki base gasket before you reassemble! What rings did you get? The source of the rings may be the source of the failure, although a proper ring compressor (2,actually) or even a diy pop-can&zip tie method would suffice & make the installation go much smoother.
 
Last edited:
oem gasket in the mail. I got the rings from bike bandit/parts outlaw. OEM.
 
Hi! I am putting my 1976 GS750 motor back together. I seem to have missed taking ANY pictures between the motor sitting on the bench and after the jugs were off. :( Fortunately, I know a great group of people that are great at solving problems! :) (That's you guys) SO.... I have the head on and torqued down. Next step is to install the front (exhaust side) cam chain guide. As i understand, it slides INTO the "U" shaped cup screwed to the bottom of the case that "hugs" the chain/gear going around the crankshaft. However, after sliding it into the cup and bending it back (yes, it is under some tension, wanting to force the top towards the intake side. Not a whole bunch, though) so that the ears on the top of the guide can slide into the recesses in the head, I hit my snag. It seems like the guide is touching the cam chain. I can't tell how much and the flashlight causes some reflections and its hard to see down there. It may just be REALLY close to touching, I can't tell. Thinking through it, It seems to me that that would cause a lot of wear on that part and probably isn't right. I'm pretty positive I installed the "cup" correctly. As I recall, the other side of the cup has a small triangular divot that the rear (intake) chain guide mates with. I also cannot install the guide outside the cup as it would have to bend WAAAYYY too much to fit into the head. The only solutions I see are that it is installed correctly and I am worried about nothing, or that there is a slightly different way to slide it into the cup. Can anyone offer a solution? Something I haven't thought of?
 
Just to be clear, the question you're asking is: should the cam chain be riding on the cam chain guide? Correct? (If not, some pics of your current situation would help.)

Short answer: yes.

Long answer: I don't know what they made the guides out of that keeps the chain from sawing clear through them within the first kilometer but somehow they work and generally last the life of the engine. For proof, open up your factory service manual and turn to the section on cylinder head installation and cam timing. There will probably be an illustration of the cam chain routing. Note that the chain has a slight inwardf bend on the exhaust side and a rather severe inward bend on the intake (tensioner) side. These bends are caused and fully supported by the cam chain guides.
 
Yesssir. I believe that captures the situation pretty well. I was just concerned that they would get all torn up. See pics below to confirm. Let me know if this looks ok, please...



 
Bear in mind I'm no expert (I'm doing my first top-end rebuild right now) but it looks right to me.
 
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