1980/81 GS1000G US Spec UK import

[eddypeck]

After my brief intro: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?249072-Picked-this-up-Saturday-GS1000G

I thought I'd start a thread here to keep a record of everything that happens form here on in. I hope this is the right place for it [Admin: please move if not].

I originally saw this for sale on Gumtree (a UK website for selling stuff, like Craig list I guess), then it appeared on eBay for an extra ?100 - obviously trying to cover the selling fees. Here are the photos from the ad:

They didn't make it look great, but either way I fired off a message to get a bit more info. It's was for sale at a garage but they were advertising it on behalf of the owner - a customer of there's. Turned out to be a guy with a 'collection' and he's decided it was time to thin his horde.

It had a short MOT* remaining but they said they'd put it through the test and issue a new certificate to the buyer.

* a compulsory annual test in the UK which all vehicles over 3 years old must have. MOT stands for Ministry of Transport. It checks the road-worthiness of the vehicle - worth noting at time of writing the government are to grant vehicles over 40 years old which have not been modified, a historic status which will exempt them from the MOT test. This is currently available for vehicles over 60 years. Vehicles over 40 years can already claim this status for road tax exemption. Road Tax or VED = Vehicle Excise Duty for a GS1000 is ?85 a year, Vehicles need to have a valid MOT and insurance certificate to apply for VED. Using a vehicle on the road without having VED, MOT or insurance is a criminal offence.


I watched it pondering for a few weeks before I finally went over to take a look. So on 9th September 2017 I took my wife on the hour road trip to go and view it. And got my own better photos:

I was pleased it looked a lot better in person than I was expecting, the overall condition looked very good. I could get a sense of the bike under the fairing. I was also surprised how big the thing was!

By now the MOT had run out so I wasn't allowed to road test it. But on the basis of an inspection I made an offer ?400 under the advertised price.

I wasn't able to get an answer straight away as the garage needed to get in touch with the owner. A few days later I got a call with a counter offer, just ?50 more so I agreed to got for it.

 

[eddypeck]

On Saturday 16th September 2017 I roped my nephew into driving me the hour journey again.

I did a quick road test, very wobbly as I got die to the size and weight, bearing in mind I'd been off bikes for 3 years.

It started, moved, and stopped so that was as much as I could ask for really.

The ride home was interesting while I got used to it. And whilst people say the Windjammer fairings help I actually found it made the front end heavy and at speed I picked up quite a wobble - maybe some other issue that was just being made more obvious by the extra 10.5kg over the front wheel.

So I arrived home, and like you, I started taking more photos:

Didn't take me long to unhooked the panniers and remove the top box. Starting to look better already.

Even though I'd been to the chiropractor that morning and was really beginning to get a bit sore and achey now the temptation was too much so within a few hours I was back out in the garage and starting to uncover the bike beneath...

then the rear rack came off

At this point it was as much as I could do. Even though the headlight parts and indicators were supplied with the bike I discovered I was missing the wiring for the headlight. But I wasn't prepared to give in. I had an old wiring loom from a 1988 VW Golf GTI in my shed (a previous project) which I knew had the same H4 headlight bulb connections. So I unearthed what I needed, snipped off enough wire and went into the house with some electrical tools and connections and made myself a little plug in loom for the headlight.

And my 1:00 am, about 12 hours after I'd handed over the cash I had this ...

 

[eddypeck]

The next day I went for a ride, and obviously pulled over for some more photos:

Then home for a wash:

 

[eddypeck]

And then the problems started.....

Oil leak

All of the gasskets look to be fairly new so it's had a rebuilt and either not torqued down right, bad gaskets or the surfaces weren't clean.

I expect I have a top end rebuild ahead of me, I've been doing some research - I might take this on myself over the winter. But for now a nip down of the bolts seems to be keeping it under control

Next I got back from a ride in the dark and wet, and when putting it away noticed I'd nearly lost the front engine bolt

it would appear it's been lost in the past and replaced with a threaded bar. Vibrations had obviously let the nut come loose and fall off and the whole car was millimeters form come out.

I kind member of a UK GS Facebook page has offered to send out a replacement original bolt, still awaiting on the arrival. For now, replacement nuts - doubled up as lock nuts and a generous amount of thread-lock.

Meanwhile, new lower, straighter bars have been ordered and awaiting fitment:

I'm finding the swept back angle of the bars not to my liking and the steering feels way out in front - like I'm pushing a wheel barrow. I'm used to sports bikes so want to have my control more directly connected to the forks. I hope these work out better for me once fitted.

For now the weather is holding out so I'm still trying to get out and use it as much as possible.

One thing the modern faring clad sports bikes didn't prepare me for was how much polishing it takes to keep the chrome clean. I did however recently sell on a 1971 VW Super Beetle - it's on a par!

 

[uk gs nut]

I've been watching your posts on uk facebook, I'm the one suggesting bandit bars. Looks a nice bike, the top end rebuild is not to hard just take your time. Use quality gaskets and as much genuine parts as possible. Pity your so far south or I could have helped. Have fun polishing and to preserve that nice front mudguard , take it off and give the insides a good clean and waxoyl it.

 

[eddypeck]

In other news, going through the file of documents I got with it I found a rather big bill, cross-referencing this with the MOT history it looks like the bike hasn't been used much since 2005. Unfortunately online records don't go back before then. So it wasn't MOTed every year and between 2005 and 2011 it only covered 1500 miles.

In early 2016 someone spent a lot of money recommissioning it:

Including;
rebuilding the calipers with new pistons and seals,
new brake master cylinder,
rebuilding the forks with a 160mm air gap, (pretty sure I've seen documentation saying should be 140mm so I need to check this)
new clutch,
and a carb strip down and rebuild
among other things.

Also carried out was a dyno test:

Showing it's lost a few horses over the last 38 years, but still not too shabby.

I'm wondering if I can get any of them back?

No mention of an engine rebuilt or receipt for gaskets though so no idea when that was done.

I presume this work was done to offer it up for sale, as in June 2016 the bike had a change of owner and in August it was put through an MOT and passed without any advisories.

Although that new owner only put 4 miles on it after that MOT. So in the last 12 years the bike had only traveled 2687.

In the last 2 weeks - I've put over 400 miles on it, and I've loved 'nearly' every single one of them even with the issues I've experienced.

Not sure how much more I'll use it now this year as the weather is turning and I probably shouldn't continue riding with the oil seepage, although it's only slight and I keeping an eye on it. But can't wait to get to grips with some of the issues, and enjoy it properly next year.

I used to ride all year, all weather but I don't NEED to now so I don't think I'll push it. I've already got caught out in the rain once and while it didn't bother me the bike got filthy and I had to polish all the chrome again.

On that note, I suspect the front mudguard is a new aftermarket replacement. Not sure about waxoyl on the inside of it, applying a 'grease' type product so close to the front tyre doesn't sit well with me, although I can see the reasoning and I know it sort of sets. But certainly taking it off and painting the inside is good sound advice. It's what I did to the insides of my VW Beetle bumpers.

 

[GSXR7ED]

Hey Eddy,

You are digging up some interesting facts about your bike. Thanks for taking the time to log in the GS journal with pics.


Ed

 

[eddypeck]

New purchase arrived:

Never had a Clymer manual before, over here we have Haynes but I couldn't find a Haynes that covered the 1000G.

Got if for a good price off eBay UK, it's an ex-library book and doesn't look like it was signed out very often.

Also on the weekend I finally got round to lifting the tank and torquing down the head bolts.

Oh and I fitted the new handle bars. But didn't get a pic.

Only did a quite mile ride out to the petrol station and back so didn't really get a good test ride. I'll update when there's more to report.

 

[GS1150Pilot]

Nearly 80 hp at the wheel? Doesn't seem to have lost much there. What a great thread-and you have done the aesthetic GS world a great service by removing the Vetter-ial warts.

 

[chuck hahn]

OEM service manuals here....


http://gsarchive.bwringer.com/

 

[eddypeck]

Yep I got those links thanks, but still like to have a paper manual. Sometimes it's just easier

 

[eddypeck]

Got some pics of the new bars...

But still got the oil leak even after 'nipping' down the head bolts. Top end rebuild is inevitable now

 

[Sam 78 GS750]

Yep I got those links thanks, but still like to have a paper manual. Sometimes it's just easier

Same here... I actually printed out the OEM service manual and put it in a binder. Killed a couple of trees, but I like putting greasy fingers on a page, not a keyboard and mouse.

 

[salty_monk]

Looking good!

 

[Big T]

Very nice bike.

Did you replace all of the fluids, especially the brake fluid?

Also, you should consider some new fork springs. Years plus the extra weight of the Vetter has probably caused some sag.

 

[850 Combat]

US Spec would have had a painted and pin striped front fender to match the painted and pin striped tank and side covers. The aftermarket Vetter fairing and luggage was, of course an American product. I'm pretty certain that UK market 1000Gs had a chrome front fender, and a paint job with more than just simple pin stripes.

 

[eddypeck]

Very nice bike.

Did you replace all of the fluids, especially the brake fluid?

Also, you should consider some new fork springs. Years plus the extra weight of the Vetter has probably caused some sag.

There's a bill with the documentation for caliper rebuild and new master cylinder and I can see from the reservoir that the brake fluid is still a nice clean and clear colour. Also on the bill is details of a fork rebuild, with new seals and fresh fluid. It could probably benefit from new (progressive) springs at some point, just as an upgrade but as I know it's had some attention it's more of a nice to do than essential. It's also had a new clutch and can see from the colour of the oil leaking from the head :-( that the oil is clean and new. Although I will rebuild over the winter so a full service will be happening immanently.

 

[eddypeck]

US Spec would have had a painted and pin striped front fender to match the painted and pin striped tank and side covers. The aftermarket Vetter fairing and luggage was, of course an American product. I'm pretty certain that UK market 1000Gs had a chrome front fender, and a paint job with more than just simple pin stripes.

Looking at the condition of the front fender (or mudguard as we call them over hear) it looks new and possibly an aftermarket pattern part. So it may well have had a painted one originally. I've been looking at replacements as I think I'd prefer it painted rather than chrome, but there's no rush to change it. What's there looks the part even if it's not correct.

Question, were the painted ones painted metal or plastic?

As for the pin striping, it's had the tank, panels and rear section repainted at some point so no idea what the original colour was or how the decals looked but I like it how it is now. I would like to refresh it at some point, so if that time comes I'll need to make a decision on whether to go back to a stock colour with stripes etc. or do something else.

 

[Steve]

It could probably benefit from new (progressive) springs at some point, just as an upgrade but as I know it's had some attention it's more of a nice to do than essential.

Not sure if you meant "progressive" as a type of spring or a brand name, but I'd like to offer a suggestion on both points.

Progressive Suspension (brand name) offers some very nice products, no doubt. The stock springs in your 1000G are likely progressively-wound springs, but of a lighter material that requires some pneumatic assistance. All of the advertising hype of air-assisted suspension sounds good, and it actually feels pretty good, until the air leaks out. Then you are left with rather inadequate springs.

Progressive (brand) springs are of a heavier spring rate than the stock springs, you likely will not need to use any additional air. However, in the process of adding enough preload to the springs so your suspension is set correctly, you might use up all of the 'softer' portion of the spring. Then you lose some of the hyped 'softer ride' and go to the stiffer portion of the springs. Many of us prefer the action of a straight-rate spring, instead. The air that is inherently trapped when you close the top of the fork tube also acts as a progressive spring, so rather than having two progressive springs compounding the rate, it's better to use straight-rate metal springs and leave the progression to the trapped air.

Sonic Springs fill that niche rather nicely, and the owner of the company happens to be a member here. Until recently, we had four GSes in the "stable" here. Three of them had Progressive fork springs, one has Sonic. I prefer the ride and control of the bike with Sonic springs. Of course, it happens to be MY bike, but I do ride the others on occasion for comparison.

.

 

[fastbysuzuki]

Hi I would recommend you get Oem gaskets for at least the cylinder base and head and orings on cylinder base along with the tear drop orings ( cylinders to crankcase) be aware though the cost is pretty steep suzuki are now issuing multi steel layer head gaskets ?100+
if you use the MLS gasket suzuki recommend you do not use the oblong oring that goes around the cam chain tunnel