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1980 GS1000ET back from the dead.....I hope.

OK, what did I do wrong?

Still no parts so got bored. What the heck its only a few bolts and screws......

And hour later and the carbs are back in the bike, buttoned up and ready to go. Odd thing, the throttle linkages seem very high and theres not a lot of turn on the twist grip from 'tick over' to 'full' throttle....

Blocked the vacuum pipe and fitted the external tank for a test....

Spun her over and thats all she would give me. No leaks from bowls or overflows but absolutely nothing. Not even a cough.

Pulled the plugs. 4 was damp, 3 not sure, 2 dry and 1 not sure. Cleaned all the plugs and checked each for spark and I had spark. Gave it another try. Nothing. Zip. Na-da.

Epic fail of the first degree.

I have to wonder if I put the throttle cable on the wrong way to have so little throttle movement and can only guess that I did a very bad job of cleaning the CV carbs for her not to fire up and run like a pile of s**t.

And to top it off, I can't find the tub with the tank cushions, tank retaining cushions and bolt and the bolt for the air cleaner.

So a bad day in all.

Going to take a day off tomorrow...
 
Carbs, carbs and carbs......

Look away if you dont like bits.



Carbs on the throttle cable. Seem a little bit too open for my thinking..... Full throttle....



Full throttle seems a very short twist, less than quarter of a twist from idle to full on. This is Idle. Too far open?



And its all over the bench (insert Freezer as I cant get to the bench.)

Cant see anything that might have caused her not to run.

Baffled.

All I can see if that all the brass mains and there washers have gone black where they were a brass colour when I put them in. That's all I can see that wrong. All the passage ways blow clear with a compressed air gun and the jets are all clear. Just baffled. I know its been 15 years since I did one of these but this never used to be that hard to solve.

I'm going to find some tubs to put the bits in and call it a day. Fight this battle another day.
 
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Yes, sadly.

Wondered if I had put the cables on wrongly too.

That's as far as I am going today.

Chokes and mixture screws still in the top half of the body.
 
Did I read this correctly or did you follow the carb cleaning tutorial? I don't see anything about the bodies being dipped/boiled/ ultrasoniced.
 
Did I read this correctly or did you follow the carb cleaning tutorial? I don't see anything about the bodies being dipped/boiled/ ultrasoniced.

Yes.

Correct. I cant buy carb dip here in the UK and I don't have an ultrasonic cleaner. Carb bodies been boiled in hot water and washing powder.

I've been offered to borrow/use an ultrasonic cleaner so that looks like my next step once I can get mobile enough to get to it. (W are limited on travel here at the moment and parts are taking a week to get through.)

I would say, in the 21 years of owning a GS/GS(X) here in the UK I've never failed to get a set of these carbs running right.

With 'lockdown,' getting stuff like carb cleaner has been a struggle and some bits of cleaning I have had to improvise.

Shoot me if you want but it's what I have to work with at the moment.
 
Its been bugging me for a couple of days and then a light went on in my head. Did I put the throttle retaining bracket on the right way around?



Should the prongs go up or down? That would make a huge different to the pull on the butterflies and then the carbs setting. Anyone help me out here?

The Suzuki workshop service manual shows the bracket to fit between the front and back of No 2 carbs and mine is across the front of the No2 carb. It would also make it so the prongs went DOWN not up and the lift in the bracket would alter the length of the cable. (Should have taken a photo when I pulled it apart.)
 
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Yes, prongs up.

But looking at that pic, your butterfly valves in the carbs are way too open if this is the position they are at with a closed throttle position.

Have you adjusted the idle knob? They need to be virtually closed on idle or no throttle.
 
Cheers Londonboards.

That was how it went back together. That is with the bike supposedly at idle.

Knew something was wrong when it was together but couldn't work out what. Think I know now.

I have since removed the tick over screw to clean it up.
 
Not done a lot to the GS so nothing to really report. Carbs are apart and I'm waiting for some help. A few more bits have arrived so I can do a service to the engine once its started running and warmed the oil up. The front brake master cylinder rebuild kits arrived just waiting on the Circlip pliers to arrive now.

So with a little bit of luck she should be running and almost done with a good few days of work..... I hope.
 
Big step forward today thanks to Londonboard's and the use of his ultrasonic cleaner and expertise.

GS1000 carbs cleaned, re-assembled and waiting to go back on the bike.

Been a long day and without starting now I am going to have a go at fitting them back in the bike tomorrow morning. Hopefully she will fire up OK. The front brake master cylinder to do then rear brake calliper to check out as it seems to be binding a little. I've also a small little job to do which is tighten up the front spindle and put the split pin (cotter pin) in and I am not far from saying its a running bike again.

I think I've got a bulb out on the clocks but that's it.

Give it a run and see how bad the oil leak was and confirm where it was leaking and go from there.....
 
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Carbs back in. Choke went on OK but the throttle cable was a so and so. Had to pull the carbs slightly off to get the cable back on.

Hooked up a reserve tank and ran the bike. Yeah!!!!!

She fired up second spin of the starter and ran on all 4 cylinders!!!!!! YES, YES, YES..... pumps the air like a gorilla.

I started her up with the throttle attached correctly but not on the 'Horn.' Stopped the bike and fitted the cable the restarted it. Bike reved up to 5,000 rpm!

If I remember rightly the cable goes over the 'horn' with a nut above and below. The only way to get her to idle was to have both nuts bellow the 'horn.' I managed to get her settled at about 1,200 rpm that way but something is not right with that throttle cable. I never changed it so I have no idea whats going on. I might just buy a new one and see if it's just me.

So she's all back together and looking good. A few little tinkers and see what to do next.....
 
as to your cable issue, is the cable routed correctly?
Have you slacked the cable up near the throttle?
 
as to your cable issue, is the cable routed correctly?
Have you slacked the cable up near the throttle?

I didn't change the route of the cable, just unclipped the carb end when I took the carbs out. I have since loosened the throttle end off so there is as much slack as possible which is nothing.

Cable comes from the throttle, round the right fork leg upper and down the right side frame. Over the top of the coils, clipped on the frame brace and then drops where the two small electrical boxes go and onto the 'horn' or cable holder. That's how it was when I took it apart.

I'I re-read the book tomorrow on cable routing and see if I've missed anything.
 
Does anyone have the length of the inner and outer cable of a GS1000E throttle cable please?

I'm told its part number 58300-44232 that is only available. Copies are no numbered and are only given in sizes so the outer is 38 and 3/16th long with the inner cable being 42 and 1/8th.
 
Todays one of those days when you wonder why you ride and fix classic bikes. One step forwards, two steps back.

Not going to moan or explain, just say that the last 3 days havent gone well.
 
Been a little busy with various bikes but Friday was a monumental day.



My GS(X)1100ESD and the GS1000E out in the sunshine for the first time in over 10 years. They don't look to bad.



She polished up alright in the end.

Friday I had all five of my bikes out and had all five start and run on the drive for the first time ever.

The GS1000E doesnt seem to be leaking oil from the head gasket or cam chain tunnel as she was 11 years ago. She's weeping oil from the sump bolt which I will have to tighten up.

I'm going to get her over to the local MOT station we have to use till a bike is 40 years old and have them check her over. If she's good I will get her out on the road for a ride and do the head gasket/base gasket in the winter.
 
Last Thursday bike went to the Testers and passed with no oil leaks or issues. She didn't sound like she was on all four cylinders and on the ride home she dropped onto two from the sound.
Swapped plugs out on the friday and got her back on all 4 and rode her over to londonboards garage for him to have a little play with. A little tinkering and checking, shes now running sweetly and soundly. Cheers londonboards.
 
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