1980 GS1000ET back from the dead.....I hope.

[Suzuki Mad]

Well the carbs are out and sitting on the bench.

1,2,3,4 bodies don't look in any trouble whats so ever. They are clean and good inside.



NO 4 float bowl wasnt great.



A little soak in fuel and a polishing cloth and its taken the rust and dirt out.



Sadly the float pins wont budge.





Mine are shaped with a large head one side and no head the other. I tried pushing them out, pliers and a drift and small hammer but no luck. I'm not going to chance my arm here and shear a post off.

Had the carbs upside down and blew into the feed line. I can hear air escaping via the feed tubes but I have to lift each of the floats to get anything out so the needles are seating correctly which is nice after all that time.

So I am a bit stumped now. How much force to get those pins out without breaking the legs off. Another job for tomorrow.

 

[Suzuki Mad]

Wish I could find the old forum and the carb rebuild pages. 'You tube' sucks for people doing CV carbs. Used to have a link but lost it with the PC change and the new forum.

 

[Guest]

Here you go: http://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac/~cliff/storage/gs/Mikuni_BS-CV_Carburetor_Rebuild_Tutorial.pdf

Ed shows you in here how to use a socket to support the lower post while you tap the pin through the upper post.

 

[Suzuki Mad]

Here you go: http://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac/~cliff/storage/gs/Mikuni_BS-CV_Carburetor_Rebuild_Tutorial.pdf

Ed shows you in here how to use a socket to support the lower post while you tap the pin through the upper post.

Thank you steveb922.

 

[Suzuki Mad]

Been having bad weather here so cant get enough space in the garage to work on the GS. Its a bit cramped.






A few parts on order to sort the tank and a screwdriver to get the pilot jets out.

Will post again when I have got some progress to report.

 

[Suzuki Mad]

Busy day today here at Mad towers.

A small white envelope dropped through my door (thank you Mr Barr) and two boxes arrived. Inside one was Bilt Hamber Atom Mac and in the other was 2 Kgs of Bilt Hamber DEOX-C.

Out with the tank, kettles on and get the hot tap working and away I went. Sealed up the tank with two metal patches screwed into the fuel tap hole and the fuel level gauge hole with the old OEM seal and some inner tube. In went the hot water and 1KG of liquid to the very brim of the tank. I started at 12pm, so just before lunch.

Popped out every hour or so to check and watch the inside of the tank go from rust colour to shiney silver once again.

5pm I tipped the solution out into a tub to save. Then washed the tank out with fresh water a couple of times to get the rest of the solution out and to neutralize it. Then added the Atom Mac into the tank, swilled it around and the tank was then sealed. poured that out into another container.

All I can say is the results were impressive. Through the fuel gauge hole I can see clean metal that was less than 10 hours ago nasty looking rust.

I had tried Evapo-rust first. It never touched the rust on the side of the tank even after 24 hours.

So If you are stuck then give it a shot.

All I need now is the screwdriver to get the pilot jets out and I can get into the carbs.....

 

[Big T]

Try boiling the carbs before trying to remove the pilot jets. Or, a heat gun. Be sure your screwdriver is an exact fit. Grind one down if necessary

 

[Suzuki Mad]

Try boiling the carbs before trying to remove the pilot jets. Or, a heat gun. Be sure your screwdriver is an exact fit. Grind one down if necessary

Never heard of boiling carbs before. In water or another solution?

 

[Suzuki Mad]

Tank back together. Fuel gauge sender unit back in with new seal, outer cover with drain catcher, refurbished fuel tap with inner workings and exterior seal and the fuel cap back on.

Still waiting on the screwdriver to get at those pilot jets. Maybe tomorrow it will arrive and I can see how good or bad a fit it will be.

I'm wondering about how to clean the exterior of the carbs before working on them. I don't have an ultrasonic cleaner so they are not going to go into a warm carb dip all apart. I'I figure that out tomorrow.

 

[londonboards]

Well done. Good job so far.

I'm CT2 Kent, if you want to borrow an Ultrasonic.

I boiled my carb bodies with some lemon juice and they came up quite good. Eventually got them vapour blasted for a really nice finish.

Be very sure the aperture in the float bowl is clear to allow fuel into the choke chamber and up the little brass pipe.

More details here:

https://suzukigs1150es.blogspot.com/2014/03/carb-float-bowl-choke-delivery-system.html
Greetings

Richard (Admin on the UK GS Owners Facebook Group)

 

[Suzuki Mad]

Well done. Good job so far.

I'm CT2 Kent, if you want to borrow an Ultrasonic.

I boiled my carb bodies with some lemon juice and they came up quite good. Eventually got them vapour blasted for a really nice finish.

Be very sure the aperture in the float bowl is clear to allow fuel into the choke chamber and up the little brass pipe.

More details here:

https://suzukigs1150es.blogspot.com/2014/03/carb-float-bowl-choke-delivery-system.html
Greetings

Richard (Admin on the UK GS Owners Facebook Group)

Hi Londonboards.

CT14 area so a way away from you. Thanks for the offer. Might take you up on it when things free up a little.

Spent some time dodging the rain showers and started to pull the carbs apart. Each one individually so tops off, bottoms off main jet out and tube. Dip the brass in some cleaner and then blow it out. Cleaner in the bowls and down the tubes to make sure its all clear.

Still need to get the pilots out to make sure they are clean and clear for fuel.

All seemed OK till I ran fuel back through

Of course No 4 is the trouble one. Fuel pouring out of the top of the carb bowl (float bowl gasket) and then out the mouth of the carb (float needle not seating.) Seems odd as when you do a blow test the whole lot seems to be air tight in the closed position. The other three appear to be fuel tight.

Its getting there.

 

[londonboards]

I have some spare float bowl gaskets. I bought those kits and never used the gaskets as mine never seem to need replacing. They go on for ever if you can get them off OK.

Did you replace the valve seat O rings? By taking off the little cross head screw and pulling the brass seat out?

Are the carbs leaking when it's running or not running? Is fuel tap holding back the fuel when there is no vacuum from the running engine?

 

[Suzuki Mad]

I have some spare float bowl gaskets. I bought those kits and never used the gaskets as mine never seem to need replacing. They go on for ever if you can get them off OK.

Did you replace the valve seat O rings? By taking off the little cross head screw and pulling the brass seat out?

Are the carbs leaking when it's running or not running? Is fuel tap holding back the fuel when there is no vacuum from the running engine?

This is on the bench (well chest freezer actually) and the tank is a on off/tap.

Stripped them down again, checked and rebuilt them. Its not leaking from the float bowl gasket but from the opening. So something is not shutting off with the float needle in No 4. Can be the new O rings surely?

 

[hampshirehog]

Possibly the pin that hold the float on is very slightly bent and the float is jammed down. Not uncommon. Only way to get is to remove the pin and roll it on a dead flat surface and watch carefully.

 

[Suzuki Mad]

Spent some time on the carbs this morning and lunch time.



Pulled No4 apart once again and when I got the needle out found a 2mm strip of a slightly darker line than the bright surface of the rest of the needle. Cleaned the seat and the needle, rebuilt and tested. The carbs held fuel.



Gave the carbs an exterior clean with a tooth and bottle brush.



Left side been cleaned and right side uncleaned. Boy, they were dirty on the outsides.

 

[Suzuki Mad]

I'm still waiting for the pilot jets screwdriver to arrive in the post and I've got a few more bits arrived in the post.

So choices. Do I refit the carbs and run them in the hope of warming the engine up enough to get the 3 small bolts out between the head and the barrels or just go for for it and pull the head off.....

decisions, decisions, decisions......

 

[Grimly]

Running the engine won't get the three bolt holes any warmer than ten seconds of a butane torch will.

 

[Suzuki Mad]

Carbs sorted.

A 0.8mm x 4.0mm x 100mm screwdriver arrived in the post. Carb bowls off, pilots jets out....

2 pilots completely blocked, 1 partially blocked and 1 with only 1 small side hole clear........no wonder she wouldn't run on idle.

Into cleaning agent and a blow through with the airline and you can see through all the pilot jet holes.

Now back in the carb and ready to go back onto the bike.

 

[Suzuki Mad]

Been a bit slow here the last few days. Waiting on parts to arrive before taking the next step on the GS.


So I have been busy on the GS(X)1100ESD that's been left unloved since 2006. I did a full nut and bolt restore on her in 2005/2006 took her to a very large classic motorcycle show and it got slated. So I rode it home, parked it up and haven't touched it since. My own decision and I wasted a lot of expensive hard work by parking her up.

Rear brake is seized so I cant even roll her out of the garage to photograph her. This is what she looked like about 5 years ago.

 

[Grimly]

Who slated it, the rivet counters?
You get them at every show, nothing but wankers.
They'd have a pop at mine, but I'd just poke them in the nose, as it's nothing to do with them.
Full-on restorations have their place, and they can be nice for their own sake, but treading into the concourse restoration field leaves you wide open to the arseholes who think they're some sort of experts.
Personally, I like to see a bike that incorporates period improvements, or even radical safety-related modern updates, where necessary.