1980 GS1000GL - From the scrapheap to...

[Guest]

Greetings all! Looks like I?m the proud new owner of a 1980 GS1000GL. Third resto but first Suzuki so this should be a learning experience.

She?s in rough shape as you can see and this one?s going to take some time.

I?m planning a brat/cafe sort of thing which is also new to me. The bike is in rough enough shape that a stock restoration would be tricky so I don?t feel to bad about messing her up. I?ll be documenting here, so stay tuned.
https://imgur.com/gallery/QMpM99I

 

[Guest]

The tear down has started, the tank is out, headlight removed, calipers and rear brake brace are off. Got the back wheel removed.

So far it looks like PO had plans, but not really either knowledge or ability to execute them. The frame was either rattle canned with a textured paint or there is a metric crap ton of rust waiting to be discovered underneath. I?m crossing my fingers for the former.

The electric is a disaster! Every connector on the bike was cut off and the components were hard wired in. There harness was a mess of spaghetti with four extra feet of black wire spliced in here and there. I?ve been trying to figure out what the idea was, but I can?t for the life of me figure out the reasoning there.

Next up is pulling the drive shaft, removing the swing arm, and the pulling the carbs so I can put them on the bench and in the dip.

I?m also starting to research through the forum on pods. Don?t hate me, I?m not sure what else to do. PO muscled the Airbox out and given it?s condition, I?m not sure I can salvage it. Looks like I?ll be doing the rejetting dance soon. If I?m already doing that, considering new exhaust, but more to follow on that.

 

[chris]

That is quite the project. I personally like pods, they make working on the bike easier. APE and KN seem to have the best reputation. I have never jetted CV carbs for pods but heard it can be a challenge. I think your bike is a candidate for a complete rewire, it would also make it easier to install cool aftermarket gauges.

 

[Guest]

It’s a project for sure. A full rewire is a definite possibility, but not sure if I’ll go that route or just find a less molested harness and rework it a bit. You may be right though. Since the PO cut all the connectors off, it may be easier to just start from scratch and make it easier for all after market electronics.

 

[Guest]

Had a few minutes this morning, so the carbs are out. Been busy at work lately, so I?m wrenching for 15 minutes whenever I can.

I have to get over time the auto parts store to get a new bucket of dip since my last one didn?t make it when I moved a couple month back. I?m also considering getting an ultrasonic cleaner for various rusty bolts. Never used one, but I?ve heard good things and if it saves me from replacing every single rusty nut and bolt, should be worth the money.

 

[Guest]

Well, I’m an idiot. Didn’t have a second set of hands to lift out the engine, so I rigged a couple ratchet straps over a scaffold to sway out the engine with the intent of lowering it onto a cart. Didn’t balance properly and she canted at an angle and wedges in nice and tight.

I am off work tomorrow due to a hurricane, so hopefully I can work it loose (assuming the garage hasn’t blown in), and if that fails, perhaps pull the head off to give me more room to work. A little luck, more beer, and some skinned knuckles and hopefully I can rectify the after effects of the good idea fairy that visited me this morning.

 

[steve murdoch]

Welcome to the site.
The ultrasonic cleaner would be good for cleaning carb parts/bodies but won't remove rust.
Better off getting some Metal Rescue.

 

[Guest]

Thanks for the welcome! Glad to have found a place with so much info. Good to know about the ultrasonic. I?d read some things which seemed to say that it would be effective on rust as well, but wouldn?t be the first time someone on the internet was wrong. I?ll stick to the tried and true methods then.

 

[chris]

For rust, I like to use a wire cup on the end of a drill. The ones with the finer bristles work much better. The course bristles just seem to scratch things up. I also noticed that enamel paint from a can is much more durable than anything from a rattle can. More beer is not a bad idea when things go sideways.

 

[Guest]

Well, I had big plans for the last couple weeks, but Hurricane Laura had other ideas. Without power and waiting on parts, I made use of the time stripping down the frame and doing a little random polishing.

There are a thousand little nooks and crannies in these frames that took a long time to clean out, but at least I got to put eyes on every weld and seam. The frame looks straight and solid so I feel good about that. Next weekend I’ll do a quick sand to get rid of the flash rust and throw in a coat of primer. After that, need to attack the tank and find a seat/hoop so that I can cut the frame and add whatever additional tabs I may need on the frame.

My order from CycleORings came in so I have everything for the carbs, and the parts to rebuild the brakes all around are on their way!

 

[Guest]

Haven?t had a lot of time lately for this project due to work travel and such, but got back at it this last week. Though the work hasn?t been getting done, the parts have been piling up in the mail and now I?m sitting on everything to rebuild the calipers, rebuild/rejet the carbs and new bearings all around.

After getting into the calipers, they are all shot, and I?m beginning to believe that the bike was totally submerged at some point. The pistons are welded to the caliper bodies with rust and the interior surfaces are shot on the one that I could pull out. Took that in stride as it give me an excuse to just replace the entire front end and upgrade the rear brakes while I?m at it, and I began the hunt for a new front end.

But then today happened....

Having a couple days off work, decided I might as well use a nice stretch to tear down the carbs. Got the first one in the dip and started disassembly on #2. Pulled the diaphragm up and it looked like there was epoxy in the bowl. Weird, must just be some weird gunk build up that I?ve never encountered. It couldn?t possibly be epoxy inside the carb. As you?ve already guessed, yes, PO did in fact pump epoxy into the carb body under the diaphragm. But why would he do that?

That?s why. Not sure if I?m more annoyed or impressed. Anyway, honestly considering parting this one out and finding a new project to start. I?m hunting a new carb body, but I really can?t justify shelling out for a full carb set (only thing I?ve found so far) given the cost of everything else I need to do to get her back on the road. I?m sure I?ll feel differently tomorrow. I hate not finishing things.

Next up is repainting the frame, but have to clean the garage and set up the paint booth first.

 

[Big T]

Did you post up a request in the Parts Wanted forum?

 

[Guest]

Haven’t yet, but planning on doing so. I’m trying to confirm the carb model before I do to make sure I’m asking for the right one. Thanks!

 

[Guest]

Finally had some time to get back at it.

Thanks to some carb donor bodies and more than a few beers, the fuel system is rebuilt, rejetted with a Dynojet kit, and polished up. Meant to grab a picture, but will have to post that later.

this afternoon I cut the tail off the frame (no turning back now), and managed to get the new hoop cut to size and fitted on without too much trouble. I threw the swing arm and front end on to check the stance and lines before marking out where the new seat and electronics tray mounts need to be added.

The end goal is still a cafe build, and I’m not sure I love the tank, but it’s the tank I’ve got so I’m sticking with it.

while the frame is in the shop for welding, I’ll be rebuilding the forks and getting the engine degreased and ready for a fresh coat of paint.

 

[Guest]

A few quick updates, but no pictures today. Sorry about that. I'll try to snap a few and update later tonight.

I found a tank off Ebay that came off an 80 GS1000 of some variety. It is going to take a slight modification to the front tank rests, but that modificaiton will be easier than building out brackets for the back end of the tank that came with the bike. The new tank is also in better shape internally and looks a lot better with the design I'm working on.

Other odds and ends accomplished: Finished rebuilding the front calipers, new paint, all new hardward and rubber; finished stripping the paint/rust off the swing arm, ordered seals and gaskets to freshen up the front forks; got the final drive opened up and cleaned out; and cleaned up the headstock and swingarm bearings (surprisingly they are serviceable).

I should have some time off in the next few weeks, so hopefully more progress to come.

 

[salty_monk]

I was working with a guy on here to find a twinpot caliper bracket solution for the L model fork. He seems to have disappeared but somewhere i have the bones of it if you fancy carrying on where he left off...

 

[Guest]

I was working with a guy on here to find a twinpot caliper bracket solution for the L model fork. He seems to have disappeared but somewhere i have the bones of it if you fancy carrying on where he left off...

I am a man easily seduced by the idea of starting a new project. Did you have a specifc twinpot you were trying to fit?

 

[salty_monk]

Have a look at the thread in my signature.... It fits all the forks with the axle underneath rather than out in front (like the L) as well as the single brake models using a different rotor. The only solution I don't totally have is for the L model but I do have an approximation that would provide a really good starting point....

 

[Guest]

Have a look at the thread in my signature.... It fits all the forks with the axle underneath rather than out in front (like the L) as well as the single brake models using a different rotor. The only solution I don't totally have is for the L model but I do have an approximation that would provide a really good starting point....

That’s nice work! Now I’m curious. If I have some spare time, I’ll play around with some plywood mockups to see if I can get close. Haven’t played with the jigsaw in a while.

 

[Guest]

Put this out in a different thread, but figured I should capture it here as well.

I mocked up the new tank and have the mounts mapped out. I made sure to drop the engine/carbs in to make sure I don't have any clearance issues (finally getting a little smarter). I should be adding those in this weekend and clipping off the old mounts. In the process of mounting up the forks to the triple tree/steering stem the thing happened that I should have foreseen, but, of course, did not: the GL triple tree and forks are too tight with thenew tank. After some choice words, half directed at the bike, half at myself, I think I have a solution.

I sourced a G triple tree and steering stem for $15, so that will move the forks so they won't bang into the tank. Also, I found out a buddy of mine has a complete fork set with the wheel/caliper/etc that he might not need that I may be able to pick up from him. The swap means that I won't have the axle leading the fork tube and (hopefully) will result in the front end geometry not changing. The other benefit that Salty_Monk turned me on to is that with the G fork set, I can swap out calipers for twinpots.

Two steps forward, one step back, and always another project to add to the list. But then, that's part of what I love about working old bikes.