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1980 GS1000S Carb Rebuild ( by a 1st Timer)

Vmass

Vmass

Forum Sage
Past Site Supporter
I removed the carbs today in preperation of a rebuild. This is my 1st endeavor into a project like this.

I must say, the removal went quite well. I suspect having pods made the removal much easier than if it had the stock air box, which I have and I hope to use.

I snapped several pictures fo rreference later.

Removing the intake boots was a snap with the recommended impact driver. Would not have been pretty without it.

The intake gaskets are clearly shot. Should I assume the boots are no good ( see pic)?

I hope to clean the bank assemble, prior to disassembling them.

Overall they look pretty clean. I believe they were off and cleaned shortly befor I purchaed it.

Anyway, It was enjoyable removing them. Let's see how the rest goes......

SuzukiGS1000S60.jpg


SuzukiGS1000S11.jpg


SuzukiGS1000S22.jpg


SuzukiGS1000S30.jpg


SuzukiGS1000S14.jpg
 
What the hell.... a couple more.
Let me know if you see anything that throws up a red flag?

SuzukiGS1000S29.jpg


SuzukiGS1000S50.jpg


SuzukiGS1000S57.jpg


SuzukiGS1000S58.jpg


SuzukiGS1000S3.jpg
 
Just follow the guide for carb cleaning and you'll be fine

Cleaning the exterior is actually more labor intensive

Chuck and Chandler have praises for Aluminator as a cleaner/etcher

Others soda blast them. Hand scrubbing is possible

Get the O rings and new bolts from cycle orings

It's really hard to judge the condition of intake boots in pictures. For a bike that nice, I'd spring for the new boots
 
Will the bike be sitting outside while you have the carbs off? If so, I'd recommend wrapping a towel around the intakes to keep junk out.
 
Those carb boots look done to me. Part Shark is the cheapest place for OE parts I've found.

Please check the carb jets against the stock numbers in the service manual. Bikes with pods and a header need different jetting than stock.


When doing the carbs please support the float posts before removing the pin otherwise they can break off.


.

floatpost.jpg


IMG_1798.jpg


IMG_1799.jpg
 
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Stock air box is going on. I have the K & L rebuild kit, as well as the o-ring kit.

I will order the new intake boots.
 
Vmass said:
Stock air box is going on. I have the K & L rebuild kit, as well as the o-ring kit.

I will order the new intake boots.
Click to expand...

Reuse all the OEM jets & such... the K&L stuff is not as good of quality as the original.

Use extreme care when removing the pilot jets - they are super easy to booger-up that slot. Best to get a brand new screwdriver that fits the slot width perfectly - might have to grind the sides of the screwdriver shaft a bit to get it down that small dia hole. And yes, you do need those rubber plugs...
 
hikermikem said:
Use extreme care when removing the pilot jets - they are super easy to booger-up that slot. Best to get a brand new screwdriver that fits the slot width perfectly - might have to grind the sides of the screwdriver shaft a bit to get it down that small dia hole. And yes, you do need those rubber plugs...
Click to expand...

And give each jet a shot of penetrating oil before attempting to remove it (proper penetrating oil - not WD40 etc).
 
Carb boots/orings at least. Tap the screws on the carbs with a suitable size punch first even if you are using a impact driver to remove them. Less chance of stuffing the screws and if you have the cash may i suggets some nice stainless screws and washers for assemble. If you are using the airbox for a first timer undo all the engine bolts and just leave the ones under the alt and point cover intact and loosing the chain and rear exhaust mounts and tilt the engine forward for more room when installing the carbs. DONT have to do it but saves bending the clamps and jamming home the carbs. Have a look in here for pictures and magazine scans of your model and other stuff....

http://s125.photobucket.com/albums/p55/sharpywheelie/
 
Thanks for the tips. I am hoping to do this only once. I am a little confused as to what and what not to use.

Here's what I think I know.. Since the bike came with pods and a pipe, it most likely does not have the stock jets and needles.

A couple of people suggested I find a stock air box which I did. It was also suggested that I buy rebuild kits for ZI, which I did. Then it was suggested that I buy the o rings from cyclerings, I did.

I was under the impression that between the rebuild/cleaning, original air box and the K & L rebuild, I would be good to go.

Know I am seeing suggestions that this may not be the case.

Should I stick with the pods and all the existing jets and needles, and replace the orings only?
 
I also searched through page after page and did not find the OEM specs for my carbs.

Can anyone point me in the right direction?
 
The factory service manual has the carb specs. If you don't have the factory manual yet you can download it for free off Basscliff's web site. http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/ The base level GS1000 manual is applicable, plus there is a GS1000ST manual supplement in the back. The carb spec sticky should also have the specs. http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=73723 Your bike should have either identical, or very close, to the jetting of the 1000G bikes.

In terms of the jetting, those K & L kits should be close but you should compare the jet numbers to the stock numbers in the book, and understand that header you have may require larger main jets. Pods drastically change the jetting needs but the header will have some effect too - maybe move up one or two main jet sizes even if you have the stock airbox. Of course, doing some plug chops is the proper way to test so you might want to read up on that as well.

Good luck
 
Well, I broke the 1st float post. I supported with a socket but apparently not good enough.

It broke below the narrow part, where the pin goes in. In other words, it broke on the thicker part of the post.

The pin is bent and still in the broken piece, not wanting to come out.

What are my options at this point?
 
Vmass said:
Well, I broke the 1st float post. I supported with a socket but apparently not good enough.

It broke below the narrow part, where the pin goes in. In other words, it broke on the thicker part of the post.

The pin is bent and still in the broken piece, not wanting to come out.

What are my options at this point?
Click to expand...


That sucks.:( You unganged the carbs didn't you?

Some people repair float posts but I'd rather just find a new carb body. I suggest an ad in the Parts Wanted forum, and be specific as to what carb body you need. The GS1000G carbs are the same as yours so that should expand the search pool.
 
Nessism said:
That sucks.:( You unganged the carbs didn't you?

Some people repair float posts but I'd rather just find a new carb body. I suggest an ad in the Parts Wanted forum, and be specific as to what carb body you need. The GS1000G carbs are the same as yours so that should expand the search pool.
Click to expand...

Unganged the carbs? Please elaborate...

What is my best repair option?
 
Vmass said:
Unganged the carbs? Please elaborate...

What is my best repair option?
Click to expand...

Unganging the carbs is in reference to removing the carb bodies from the interconnection bracket/bars. Many people are intimidated by all the disassembly required and try to "rebuild" the carbs with all the carbs still joined together.

As already stated, I suggest getting one new carb body, to replace the one you broke.
 
The carbs were removed from their brackets. Directions have been followed to a T.

I am not sure if the socket I used slipped or if I hit the pin too hard. In any event, with 3 more to go I better do something different!

Yes, I know you suggest replacing.... Also loooking for repair options. I read that these can be repaired, which I may need to do if I don't find a replacement.
 
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Vmass said:
The carbs were removed from their brackets. Directions have been followed to a T.

I am not sure if the socket I used slipped or if I hit the pin too hard. In any event, with 3 more to go I better do something different!

Yes, I know you suggest replacing.... Also loooking for repair options. I read that these can be repaired, which I may need to do if I don't find a replacement.
Click to expand...

Regarding the broken float post, it's only a "mistake" if you do it twice.:-s

Welcome to the world of 30 year old motorcycles.:D
 
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