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1980 GS1000S Reluctant Rebuild

Check the carb boots too, they may be angled down instead of up.

Yup, Suzuki's part system is messed up some. Order one part number and get something different, and/or parts don't fit. I think this problem is getting worse as various supercessions take place and human error compounds year after year without anyone fixing the problems. The factory airbox boot band clamps are too big. You can get the proper clamps by ordering the part number from the 1000GL fishe. Many of the various hardware parts are wrong too, and/or of completely different head marking compared to the original hardware. Splitting hairs here, but for a restoration it's nice to bring the bike back to the stock look.

Oh well, we do the best we can. Keep going...
 
Kiwi, I had the same problem last year and found that new boots and clamps on the airbox side were needed to fix it.
 
cowboyup3371 said:
Kiwi, I had the same problem last year and found that new boots and clamps on the airbox side were needed to fix it.
Click to expand...

Just put a new set of air box boots and clamps on, what was better or different about the new set you used?
My old ones looks the same as the new ones, other than the clips which seem too big as they are not tightening down enough on the rear of the carbs.
Not sure what's up yet but I will see if I can at least run the bike before I take it apart again.
I am so close, I want to see if the engine will fire up, as I have never seen or heard it run since I bought it 5-6 months ago.
 
Nothing really different but I could never keep it on until I bought them. Otherwise, I slid the carbs into the airbox side first, clamped them down, and then slid up into the intake boots and clamped them down.

Take a picture of it and post up; maybe there's something else we'll see to give a better idea.
 
Carb Boot Alignment

Carb Boot Alignment

Here's a couple of pictures of the carbs being installed, as I look at the pictures it's difficult to see the problem.
When the air box plenum is attached to the carbs it sits about 1/2" lower than where it needs to be to install the 2 bolts at the top, when I lift it up to line up the bolts, the boots slip off the rear of the carbs. It does not want to align easily and I need to really pull on it so I know something is not quite right.

I have not removed the front boots to check if a different orientation will help, but I did look for any marks on them and didn't see anything. The rear boots look symmetrical so nothing obvious at this point.

I will order some new GS1000GL boot clamps recommended by Ed, (Nessism) to rectify the issue with the loose fitting ones I have.

My main focus right now is to see if I can get the engine running, hopefully by tonight I will know if she runs.

As I’m trying to get everything ready to fire her up, any advice on pre-startup procedures before I push the button.






 
Last edited:
Stunning rebuild, Kiwi. Good luck with the fire up.
Spoke with a seasoned UJM mechanic last night over a few barley pops, and mentioned the air cleaner bolt-up problem. His (smart-azz) comment: shim the motor 2? forward :rolleyes:

btw: those Pings look a bit neglected...
 
New Parts

New Parts

Finally got my last shipment of parts needed (ha ha) I know I will always need something else but it feels like I'm close to having everything I need.

Ordered new rear brake pads from Suzuki, not sure why as I could have got aftermarket ones for 1/2 the price, maybe they are twice as good. :D

Also got a few other misc. goodies needed, including a new gasket and 3 new acorn nuts for the oil filter.



Look what I discovered when I went to install the filter cover, it didn't feel quite right when I tightened it up.



Two very thin washers on the bottom stud, very strange, I'm not sure how it sealed with it like that. Just another example of fine workmanship from the PO.
 
Thanks

Thanks

Frank Z. said:
Stunning rebuild, Kiwi. Good luck with the fire up.
Spoke with a seasoned UJM mechanic last night over a few barley pops, and mentioned the air cleaner bolt-up problem. His (smart-azz) comment: shim the motor 2? forward :rolleyes:

btw: those Pings look a bit neglected...
Click to expand...

Thanks for the kind comments Frank, and yes those fine golf clubs haven't seen much use this year, not sure why. :D
 
Frank Z. said:
Stunning rebuild, Kiwi. Good luck with the fire up.
Spoke with a seasoned UJM mechanic last night over a few barley pops, and mentioned the air cleaner bolt-up problem. His (smart-azz) comment: shim the motor 2? forward :rolleyes:

btw: those Pings look a bit neglected...
Click to expand...
A thought just occurred coming from this post.Are you SURE the front motor mounts are the right way around? Just might make a bit if a difference,not sure it will but might be worth a look.
 
"As I?m trying to get everything ready to fire her up, any advice on pre-startup procedures before I push the button."

fire extinguisher....and a video camera.
 
SVSooke said:
A thought just occurred coming from this post.Are you SURE the front motor mounts are the right way around? Just might make a bit if a difference,not sure it will but might be worth a look.
Click to expand...

Nice suggestion here, SV. Just checked, and whereas the right mount could be mistakingly installed backwards/rotated, it appears the left one can only go one way. Still wondering if carb-to-head boots have a right/wrong situation :-k

azr said:
"As I?m trying to get everything ready to fire her up, any advice on pre-startup procedures before I push the button."

fire extinguisher....and a video camera.
Click to expand...

Priceless :D
 
Frank Z. said:
Nice suggestion here, SV. Just checked, and whereas the right mount could be mistakingly installed backwards/rotated, it appears the left one can only go one way. Still wondering if carb-to-head boots have a right/wrong situation :-k



Priceless :D
Click to expand...

So I needed to remove the carbs because I forgot to install the starter motor bolts and I didn't feel like messing around with trying to install them with limited space, so out they came.
I have measured the cylinder intake boots 6 ways to Sunday and they are in fact symmetrical no different either way up.
SV good thought on the engine mounts, already thought of that but as the rear and lower mounts are fixed it's actually not possible to get it in wrong.
 
My helpers

My helpers

Got some help in the garage today, Alexander helping with polishing the exhaust pipes.

 
More help

More help

John has been helping with a bit of wrenching as well.

Here he is helping with the exhaust install.



Now back to the real chores.

 
Nice to see your not in this project alone. I hope you give them encouragement to learn wreching techniques in nicer language than my step dad. In my day I was lucky to have a lawn mower with wheels, let alone a motor.:D
 
New pictures

New pictures

Here are the pictures that show the misalignment of the carbs to the Air Box, the only conclusion I have come to is the intake boots have been replaced and are not the same as the original ones.
Cowboy, does not make a difference which side I put in first, the box is low by about 1/2" and the bolt holes will not line up.
When I lift the airbox to align the bolt holes the rear boots slip off, as the new band clamps are a little too big.
Not a big deal as long as the air filter box fits and I can bolt that down so it should hold everything together.

This picture is with the carbs in the neutral position, just where they sit.



Here the side view with the airbox in it's "correct" position.

 
David, I'm pretty sure everything will be just fine once you can clamp the airbox boots to the carbs before you pull the airbox up to bolt it to the frame. Lots of bikes I've worked on are the exact same distance from the frame bolts. The carbs just bend up a bit without the boots coming off.
 
No Go Tonight

No Go Tonight

Well I had my Video Camera and Fire Extinguisher ready but could not get the starter button to work, had lights and dash was all lit up, when I was checking the fuse panel to see what voltages I was getting I noticed a hot fuse so I quickly disconnected the battery.
I checked all the fuses and the first two were 20 and 25 Amps:eek: no wonder I had a few melted wires when I got the bike.
It looks like something is shorting somewhere, so I'll leave it till tomorrow to look at it.

I'm knackered as I must have taken 2-3 hours just to finish getting the exhausts on tonight.
I put them on and took them off about 3 times until I realised that the header pipes for 1 and 4 are handed, who knew? and I had them on the wrong side and struggled for an hour trying to get the left pipe to fit on the right side.:oops: Once I got that sorted I still needed to get the bolts aligned at the back and they did not line up without a big of leverage.

Seems strange that they didn't just drop straight on as they supposedly came off this bike.
Would have been nice to hear the bike start after all that work, I did jump the starter solenoid wire to the battery and turned it over so that all works.

Tomorrow is a holiday here so hopefully I'll get a bit of time to look at the electrical issue then.
 
azr said:
David, I'm pretty sure everything will be just fine once you can clamp the airbox boots to the carbs before you pull the airbox up to bolt it to the frame. Lots of bikes I've worked on are the exact same distance from the frame bolts. The carbs just bend up a bit without the boots coming off.
Click to expand...
I fully agree with AZR:)
Everything is normal, you just need to lift the airbox with the carbs attached and it will work fine.
Don't forget that the carbs are "hanging" without the airbox attached.
 
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