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1980 GS1000S Reluctant Rebuild
- Thread starter Kiwi Canuck
- Start date
Cams and Top End Installation
Cams and Top End Installation
I had a plan tonight to get the cams installed and setup, I got everything laid out and cleaned, sorted out what shims I had and got ready to get another piece of the puzzle completed.
It went really well, got the cams installed and the journals tightened down nicely, and then I carefully turned the engine to check everything was working smoothly when I felt that unmistakable feeling of a valve in contact with a piston.
Seems I lost my memory on the setup, I double checked the manual which is useless as t*ts on a bull as it shows the 79 model with points, checked the 1000T (1980) supplement online but that doesn't show the setup.
I had it 180 degrees out as it happened.
I now have set it up with the #4 piston at TDC and placed the exhaust cam with the "1" and the arrow toward the front parallel with the head flange.
I have set it up this way but I would like to verify where the "T" on the timing advancer (for 1&4)should be? is it visable in the circle or what?
There is no mark to line it up with, so I'm a bit stuck and would like to verify this before I go any further.
Cams and Top End Installation
I had a plan tonight to get the cams installed and setup, I got everything laid out and cleaned, sorted out what shims I had and got ready to get another piece of the puzzle completed.
It went really well, got the cams installed and the journals tightened down nicely, and then I carefully turned the engine to check everything was working smoothly when I felt that unmistakable feeling of a valve in contact with a piston.
Seems I lost my memory on the setup, I double checked the manual which is useless as t*ts on a bull as it shows the 79 model with points, checked the 1000T (1980) supplement online but that doesn't show the setup.
I had it 180 degrees out as it happened.
I now have set it up with the #4 piston at TDC and placed the exhaust cam with the "1" and the arrow toward the front parallel with the head flange.
I have set it up this way but I would like to verify where the "T" on the timing advancer (for 1&4)should be? is it visable in the circle or what?
There is no mark to line it up with, so I'm a bit stuck and would like to verify this before I go any further.
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Never mind,
Never mind,
Well that was fun, just did a new search and found Basscliff's top end rebuild and saw this. Why didn't mine have that
So I went and looked through my stash of parts and realized I had forgot to install the inner plate behind the electronic Ignition Plate. Problem solved, and I had the thing setup correctly anyway so that was reassuring.
(I usually try to avoid going to bed with something unresolved, so that is good to find that) Thanks BassCliff.
Never mind,
Well that was fun, just did a new search and found Basscliff's top end rebuild and saw this. Why didn't mine have that
So I went and looked through my stash of parts and realized I had forgot to install the inner plate behind the electronic Ignition Plate. Problem solved, and I had the thing setup correctly anyway so that was reassuring.
(I usually try to avoid going to bed with something unresolved, so that is good to find that) Thanks BassCliff.
New Tools
New Tools
Just received my new set of Vessel JIS screw drivers today.
I got to try them out tonight and they are fantastic, what a great investment, totally awesome, so well made and a nice feature with the knurling near the handle, also has the "jawsfit" feature to help grip the screw.
I have also got a set of Wera drivers which are nice as well but these Vessels are even better.
I purchased the #2 & #3 drivers with 150MM shafts.
Here's the website if anyone is interested, http://www.rjrcooltools.com/shop_item_detail.cfm?subcat_ID=65
New Tools
Just received my new set of Vessel JIS screw drivers today.
I got to try them out tonight and they are fantastic, what a great investment, totally awesome, so well made and a nice feature with the knurling near the handle, also has the "jawsfit" feature to help grip the screw.
I have also got a set of Wera drivers which are nice as well but these Vessels are even better.
I purchased the #2 & #3 drivers with 150MM shafts.
Here's the website if anyone is interested, http://www.rjrcooltools.com/shop_item_detail.cfm?subcat_ID=65
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I found that my timing mark was on the outside plate behind the screw head. Hopefully you'll get everything resolved soon.
GS 1000 NOS Crank
GS 1000 NOS Crank
The dealer finally gave me a price on the GS1000 NOS Crank, about $250 he said, I almost said "I'll take it" but I manged to hold my tongue and instead bought 2 valve shims, which is what I went in there for and was a little less money.
BTW he also has an 1150 NOS crank as well.
GS 1000 NOS Crank
The dealer finally gave me a price on the GS1000 NOS Crank, about $250 he said, I almost said "I'll take it" but I manged to hold my tongue and instead bought 2 valve shims, which is what I went in there for and was a little less money.
BTW he also has an 1150 NOS crank as well.
Charlie, yes I had the cranked checked out and it was running true, wanted to be sure just in case it took a bump during shipping.
I installed it last weekend and have buttoned up the engine, fingers crossed that I did everything correctly and I'll be able to fire it up sooner than later.
Still have a couple of pieces I'm waiting on but I still have plenty of work left before I'm ready.
Thanks again for your help on that.
Cheers.
Timing Mark
Timing Mark
I found my timing mark in a box of bits
but once I installed it I was back on track, only took me 2 goes to get the cams located on the right spot, seem to remember I had the same issue on a previous rebuild.
Timing Mark
I found my timing mark in a box of bits
but once I installed it I was back on track, only took me 2 goes to get the cams located on the right spot, seem to remember I had the same issue on a previous rebuild.
Something followed me home yesterday
Something followed me home yesterday
My wife just finished her M/C riding lessons so I went out and found this for her.
The irony is that I bought one for her back last Christmas, after I spent many hours and about $$$ on it she didn't like it so I sold it.
I did get to learn quite a lot about GS's as it's been 20 years since I was wrenching on a bike and it got me ready to tackle the "S".
Here is the new one. 2007 GS500F 3,000KM
Something followed me home yesterday
My wife just finished her M/C riding lessons so I went out and found this for her.
The irony is that I bought one for her back last Christmas, after I spent many hours and about $$$ on it she didn't like it so I sold it.
I did get to learn quite a lot about GS's as it's been 20 years since I was wrenching on a bike and it got me ready to tackle the "S".
Here is the new one. 2007 GS500F 3,000KM
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Carb Pong
Carb Pong
Seems the project has come to a sudden halt recently, not sure why, maybe the fact that it's summer and lots of other things going on.
Not to mention I've been working on my wife's new bike, cleaning it up and making sure it's all working well and safe.
Well I didn't get any takers when I asked for help with the carbs, so I've started the job myself.
The jets all came out very nicely, nothing stuck or broken, but one screw on the metal angle bracket that gangs the carbs together was a real job to get out.
Luckily I had my new Vessel JIS screw drivers as they got a work out.
I was able to get about a 1/4 of turn out of the screw each day and then gave it a blast of Liquid Wrench and I finally got it out last night.
I've used Simple green on some of the parts and just debating on Vapor blasting or cleaning by hand after the carb dip process.
Do I need to seal off the inside of the carb if I get it vapor blasted, to stop the blast media from clogging the internals?
Anyone for Carb Pong?
Carb Pong
Seems the project has come to a sudden halt recently, not sure why, maybe the fact that it's summer and lots of other things going on.
Not to mention I've been working on my wife's new bike, cleaning it up and making sure it's all working well and safe.
Well I didn't get any takers when I asked for help with the carbs, so I've started the job myself.
The jets all came out very nicely, nothing stuck or broken, but one screw on the metal angle bracket that gangs the carbs together was a real job to get out.
Luckily I had my new Vessel JIS screw drivers as they got a work out.
I was able to get about a 1/4 of turn out of the screw each day and then gave it a blast of Liquid Wrench and I finally got it out last night.
I've used Simple green on some of the parts and just debating on Vapor blasting or cleaning by hand after the carb dip process.
Do I need to seal off the inside of the carb if I get it vapor blasted, to stop the blast media from clogging the internals?
Anyone for Carb Pong?
S
SVSooke
Guest
Found out what we can do for dip in Canada http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=178816 .But then you have easier axcess to the US than me.Take the smell warnings to heart if you do go with the Klean-Flo.Do NOT use it in that nice garage attached to your house
Found out what we can do for dip in Canada http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=178816 .But then you have easier axcess to the US than me.Take the smell warnings to heart if you do go with the Klean-Flo.Do NOT use it in that nice garage attached to your house
Thanks Greg, I think I'll pass on the Klean Flo, that sounds like pretty serious stuff, one of my biggest concerns is getting rid of the used product, everyone around here has shallow wells so we don't just dump that sort of stuff down the drain, or around the back of the shed.
Not to mention I don't like toxic smelling stuff.
I'll try simple green and soak them for 1-2 hours and see how that goes first, then use the Gunk carb cleaner, which is pretty strong smelling so I'll use that outside only with a respirator.
I am very aware that John Britton http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/John_Britten and Sir Francis Chichester http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Francis_Chichester and several others were diagnosed with cancer, probably brought on by repeated exposure to harsh chemicals, as both used resins and various chemicals without any respirators, so I'm very careful with the use of anything too toxic.
John Britten was just plain careless - told many times of the risk of fiberglassing without protection. In NZ a lot of the early boat building experimenters have died of cancer due to not taking simple precautions.
Surprisingly, the members of the Britten team who tell stories of using power files in clouds of carbon fiber are all fit and healthy....but they wore masks which I understand they bought themselves....
Surprisingly, the members of the Britten team who tell stories of using power files in clouds of carbon fiber are all fit and healthy....but they wore masks which I understand they bought themselves....
S
SVSooke
Guest
I used Pine Sol at 1 part Pine Sol to 2 parts water with good results on my 85 750 carbs.The 78 1000 carbs needed something a bit more serious hence the Klean Flo.Read here that Simple Green can do bad things to carb bodies,can't recall what this early though.Makes them go dark?
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Thanks for the reminder on that, I do remember leaving some bolts in too long and they came out a bit etched, so I better find some odd bit of aluminum to test first and search the forum for info about simple green and carbs.
Carb Cleaning Day
Carb Cleaning Day
Got a bit of time this evening to get to work on the carbs, got 3 of them done.
Used simple green and a small nylon brush on the outside to degrease them and clean them up a little before I dip them in ?? (not sure yet)
Because the P.O. ran the bike from time to time, it appears things were not seized or junked up too much.
They came apart nicely and just a little rusty coloured corrosion near the built in filter under the whosmadingy, (valve needle) but otherwise seem in OK shape.
I didn't pull the butterflies out but looks like it's not too much extra to do so if I need to.
Here's a shot of one that's cleaned and ones that not.
Tops and bottoms all done for now, unless I get them buffed up a bit more later.
Carb Cleaning Day
Got a bit of time this evening to get to work on the carbs, got 3 of them done.
Used simple green and a small nylon brush on the outside to degrease them and clean them up a little before I dip them in ?? (not sure yet)
Because the P.O. ran the bike from time to time, it appears things were not seized or junked up too much.
They came apart nicely and just a little rusty coloured corrosion near the built in filter under the whosmadingy, (valve needle) but otherwise seem in OK shape.
I didn't pull the butterflies out but looks like it's not too much extra to do so if I need to.
Here's a shot of one that's cleaned and ones that not.
Tops and bottoms all done for now, unless I get them buffed up a bit more later.
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Safety precautions
Safety precautions
I remember when I was younger we installed pink fiberglass bats without any respirators or protection, it irritated the heck out of my skin, I can only imagine what it did to my lungs.
But back in the 60's and 70's we never thought about it much, but it's very different today thank gosh.
I was involved in restoring old houses for a few years and had to be really disciplined to remember to wear the respirator in a hot sweaty attic ripping out old insulation and removing old piping and wiring. I still see many guys working without protection and I'm not much better as I still find myself buffing something on the wire wheel without safety glasses.
Safety precautions
I remember when I was younger we installed pink fiberglass bats without any respirators or protection, it irritated the heck out of my skin, I can only imagine what it did to my lungs.
But back in the 60's and 70's we never thought about it much, but it's very different today thank gosh.
I was involved in restoring old houses for a few years and had to be really disciplined to remember to wear the respirator in a hot sweaty attic ripping out old insulation and removing old piping and wiring. I still see many guys working without protection and I'm not much better as I still find myself buffing something on the wire wheel without safety glasses.
P
ptexotik
Guest
I got nuthin' ... other than to state I look forward to pictures of this completed project!! wow
Shims & Engine Cover Emblem
Shims & Engine Cover Emblem
I went down to the mail box in the US this morning to pick up a couple of packages.
Got my shims from Ray (GhostGS1) and an engine cover emblem from Mike (MSKiwi), Mike also included some copies of GS1000S supplements which I didn?t have, so much appreciated, thank you.
I now get to tick off a few things from my list of things to do. I really do appreciate the help and generosity of the members here who offer parts, advice and support, without which I would not be doing what I?m doing, so thank you to the many great people out there who give so much to the members here.
Here is a picture of the cover, I used 2000 grit W&D paper to take the gold finish off and it came up pretty good, need a bit more work but it?s possible to remove the gold finish but it?s a delicate job.
Shims & Engine Cover Emblem
I went down to the mail box in the US this morning to pick up a couple of packages.
Got my shims from Ray (GhostGS1) and an engine cover emblem from Mike (MSKiwi), Mike also included some copies of GS1000S supplements which I didn?t have, so much appreciated, thank you.
I now get to tick off a few things from my list of things to do. I really do appreciate the help and generosity of the members here who offer parts, advice and support, without which I would not be doing what I?m doing, so thank you to the many great people out there who give so much to the members here.
Here is a picture of the cover, I used 2000 grit W&D paper to take the gold finish off and it came up pretty good, need a bit more work but it?s possible to remove the gold finish but it?s a delicate job.
