1980 GS1000S Reluctant Rebuild

[Kiwi Canuck]

Connecting rod issue

Connecting rod issue

Seems the issue is with the connecting rod, the small end has a small ridge in it and the bottom end was not very smooth until we removed it from the crank case then it freed up quite a bit which was really strange, it's still a bit lumpy as it rotates but not quite as bad as before, we blew brake cleaner into the bearing and a small amount of crunchy stuff blew out so somethings wrong with it.

Based on the damage on the small end it looks like I need a new connecting rod, all the other ones look in good condition, so not sure what has caused this problem.

Wally and another M/C mechanic who was there didn't think it was related to me washing it and getting water in the big end bearing.

 

[Kiwi Canuck]

Update on the cranky issue

Update on the cranky issue

Well, I just about wrecked my back hauling that motor around, in and out of the back of my car.
I couldn't get the clutch basket off because I didn't have the 32mm socket needed so I put the motor into a box and dropped by to see if Wally would remove it so I could complete the job of splitting the cases and pulling the crankshaft out.

He usually doesn't disassemble stuff but he was willing to help with it and we had the crankshaft out in about 10 mins.
He aslo removed the rotor and I'm glad he did as that also required a special tool which I do not have (yet).

It has come down to needing a new #3 connecting rod as it's been damaged at some point in it's life so better off to replace it now rather than get it all back together and find out that's it's worse than we thought. Seems that the rods are discontinued and not available any more.

Charlie G. has offered me a crank from a 78 GS1000, the part numbers are the same except for the last digit, which is a "1" instead of a "3".
Not sure what that means but I'm sure we will be able to make something work. (the connecting rods have the same part number as do the bearings and seals)
I have also noticed that the timing chain shaft and the left hand crankshaft section has a different number, so looks like the 78 crank will be a donor for some parts to rebuild my original.

That will add a few hours to the job but atleast we will be all good to go once done.

Well at least it's not holding up the project, it just means I'll need to tackle something else like rebuilding the calipers, which I have still not started.

 

[Guest]

Man , this is going to be the goodliest 'S .

Cheers , Simon .

 

[GregT]

I'll predict that the crank you've been offered will drop straight in...

While it's apart have a look at the cush springs on the back of the clutch basket. If they've collapsed, now's the time to do something about it.

 

[Kiwi Canuck]

I'll predict that the crank you've been offered will drop straight in...

While it's apart have a look at the cush springs on the back of the clutch basket. If they've collapsed, now's the time to do something about it.

Thanks, good point, I'll check those more thoroughly before I put things back together.

David

 

[Kiwi Canuck]

So I have a new crank on the way here from Charlie G, that should be here by next week sometime.
Charlie, thank you for your speedy work to get it shipped this week.
I checked with the local Suzuki shop in Vancouver as I was picking something up yesterday, I couldn't believe it, they have a complete NOS crank and NOS connecting rods and bearings in stock, who woulda thunk. The connecting rod and bearing was $90.00 which seemed reasonable but I didn't ask how much the NOS crank was, just in case I said "OK I'll take it" without meaning to.

I am ordering new seals for the crank but staying with the existing cam chain and guides as they measure well within spec.

Still debating on ordering original JIS screws for the cases or going for Allen Head SS bolts. Has anyone tried using Button Head Allen Head Screws as they look more like the original screws? not sure which way to go on that but will need to make a choice pretty soon as I'll be ready to button her up in a few weeks.

 

[ozman]

So I have a new crank on the way here from Charlie G, that should be here by next week sometime.
Charlie, thank you for your speedy work to get it shipped this week.
I checked with the local Suzuki shop in Vancouver as I was picking something up yesterday, I could believe it, they have a complete NOS crank and NOS connecting rods and bearings in stock, who woulda thunk. The connecting rod and bearing was $90.00 which seemed reasonable but I didn't ask how much the NOS crank was, just in case I said "OK I'll take it" without meaning to.

I am ordering new seals for the crank but staying with the existing cam chain and guides as they measure well within spec.

Still debating on ordering original JIS screws for the cases or going for Allen Head SS bolts. Has anyone tried using Button Head Allen Head Screws as they look more like the original screws? not sure which way to go on that but will need to make a choice pretty soon as I'll be ready to button her up in a few weeks.

the crank charlies sending you will drop in, all 3 years of the chain drive GS1000 including S models used the same crank
number differ some supercede earlier numbers but are the same crank setup
who is going to fit the new rod if you bought ?
the crank needs to be pressed apart rod installed pressed back together and true'd, not a simple job far easier to drop in another crank
which suzuki dealer had the complete nos crank ??

ozman

 

[Kiwi Canuck]

the crank charlies sending you will drop in, all 3 years of the chain drive GS1000 including S models used the same crank
number differ some supercede earlier numbers but are the same crank setup
who is going to fit the new rod if you bought ?
the crank needs to be pressed apart rod installed pressed back together and true'd, not a simple job far easier to drop in another crank
which suzuki dealer had the complete nos crank ??

ozman

I was doing my math and the work to replace the new rod and bearing would be $90 + about $200 in labour and the replacement crank is $100 including shipping, so as long as it fits then it's a no brainer as to which is the way to go. (I just hope the '78 crank is good)
The Suzuki dealer is Modern Motorcycles on Commercial Drive, most of his "S" stuff has been sold to a member on here already including a bunch of NOS Mirrors. but apparently has boxes stashed away with all sorts of NOS Suzuki parts.

 

[Kiwi Canuck]

Carbs

Carbs

Time to tackle a few of the projects that have been on the back burner, I have PMed Renobruce to see if he will clean and rebuild my carbs.
Even though I'm a trained Locksmith and are very familar with tiny parts and working within fine tolerances I am reluctant to take on the carbs as I'm just not that comfortable with tackling them right now.
Maybe just too many new things to learn on this rebuild and I'm wanting it done by this summer, so I will farm out a few pieces.

Here's a picture of them, the right hand carb has a bit missing from the top of the intake, hopefully this will be OK.



34MM Carbs



The broken piece, close up.

 

[Kiwi Canuck]

Replacing the RED "Z"l

Replacing the RED "Z"l

The Suzuki decal on the rear cowling was looking a bit rough so I removed it with a sharp blade and sanded the remaining edges with 2000 grit Wet & Dry sand paper.





Applied the new decal (supplied by Roscoe via BCCAP) and here is the result, it wil lbe good enough until I go for a full paint job.

 

[Kiwi Canuck]

Cleaned Up The Lower Crank Case

Cleaned Up The Lower Crank Case

I was contemplating taking the crank cases to get vapour blasted today, but it meant removing all the gearing and linkages which is not such a big job but getting it back together might be more challenging.
So I took the easy way out as I had two cans of elbow grease left over from Christmas, so I took out the big pieces (gearing) and used the elbow grease and a few different brass brushes.
Still need to touch up a few spots but it's almost good enough.

Edit, don't use brass brushes as they transfer brass onto the aluminium cases, use stiff nylon or maybe stainless steel as long as they don't scratch the surface.

 

[Kiwi Canuck]

Breaking down the Brakes

Breaking down the Brakes

Got a bit of work done on the brakes today, I finished the rear caliper and it come up pretty good.
Used VHT Caliper Paint in Satin Black



The front calipers are going to be more work as the nipple is seized in both and I am soaking them with ATF & Acetone before attempting to loosen them.
I might try boiling them in a pot of water as well if the penetrating oil concoction doesn't work as that has worked before.

 

[GregT]

looking good.

For what it's worth, when the lower cases are blasted, the roller bearing the selector drum runs in must be removed. It usually drifts out easily and if required, a replacement is a standard size bearing available from normal bearing suppliers.

 

[Kiwi Canuck]

looking good.

For what it's worth, when the lower cases are blasted, the roller bearing the selector drum runs in must be removed. It usually drifts out easily and if required, a replacement is a standard size bearing available from normal bearing suppliers.

Thanks Greg, that's part of the reason for my reluctance, I sent my clutch cover in and did not remove the shaft and bearings, when I got it back it was basically seized with glass beads, I removed it and washed out the bearings about 10 times until they were clean and then replaced the oil seal.

 

[Vmass]

Here is a fender on eBay. Looks to be the same as the S.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1980-SUZUKI...Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d0dc3e871&vxp=mtr

 

[Kiwi Canuck]

Here is a fender on eBay. Looks to be the same as the S.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1980-SUZUKI...Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d0dc3e871&vxp=mtr

Thanks Rich, I have one coming from another member, but I purchased this one as well as it was very reasonable.
I will try them both and get the best one painted for this bike.

 

[Kiwi Canuck]

Front Brake Caliper Overhaul

Front Brake Caliper Overhaul

Front Calipers had seized bleed nipples on both and one stuck piston, I couldn't wait for the penetrating oil to work so I put them in a pot of water and put them on the BBQ side burner and let them boil for 10 mins, hit them with cold water and then the bleed nipples came undone no problems.
I then wrapped the caliper in a big rag and hit it with air gun, one pop and the piston was out, very nice.
Cleaned them up with simple green, washed with hot water, dry with air gun and then blow dryer for a few minutes to make sure all moisture was gone and then painted them with my favourite VHT Satin Black Caliper Paint.
I will cure them in my Electric Smoker, it reaches 300F max so should be good. Not sure if I should use Applewood or Hickory

 

[Kiwi Canuck]

Air Box Lid

Air Box Lid

Another piece I am having a hard time dealing with is the air box lid, is completely mashed in, I straighten it the best I could and gave it a good sanding and then painted with Satin Black Paint.
It looks terrible, as all I’ve done is proven that guys that are good at this trade are worth every penny and then some.

Here’s the before picture.



The after Picture, just image the same picture but a bit more shiny.

The air box is still available and it looks like it must include the lid but a bit expensive at $153.00

Any one have a spare lid that's in good shape, OK if it needs paint as I'm OK at painting, just don't have the knack for straightening stuff.

 

[Kiwi Canuck]

Can you spot the difference

Can you spot the difference

See if you can spot the difference, I received this head gasket from Boulevard about a month ago but never removed them from the package to check it till recently. A bit of a shock to say the least.
The original one is on the bottom, just incase you needed a hint.



They have already shipped me the correct one so thanks to Brent at Boulevard, always had awesome service from them.

 

[nvr2old]

Aw, heck..just flip it over onto a smooth, flat, hard surface and take a hammer and a small block of wood and lightly tap the dents back out using the flat surface as a dolly, and then skim coat it with a bit of plastic filler if needed, prime, paint..badda bing, badda boom..